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nutty



Member Since: 18 Nov 2023
Location: iceland
Posts: 2

 
Galvanised or not
I have to buy a new rear corner for my Defender after a small accident and see that there is an option to buy a galvanised part and not galvanised.

Will buying the galvanised part prevent corrosion ?

The rear corner post started corroding almost immediately after a paint job and I hadn't gotten around to have it fixed but now I have to and am wondering if I should go for galvanised or not ?

Cheers
Post #1017970 10th Dec 2023 10:48am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3409

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
GALVANIZED GALVANIZED GALVANIZED.

Just ensure that is prepared correctly before painting. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1017973 10th Dec 2023 10:54am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
In my experience buying the galvanised part will definitely stave off corrosion. I replaced the rear corner strips on my car in about 2008. At that time the car was already 14 years old.

The galvanised corners are still on the car and show no external corrosion at all. I recently had one of them off to do a bit of straightening (don’t ask!) and there’s mild corrosion on the inner faces but not so much that I had any worries about putting it back on. Bear in mind also that this car is used all year round in the Scottish Highlands. I know it’ll be a lot colder where you are, but in our ‘in between’ temperatures we love to slather the roads in salt.

So yeah, for my money go for galved. In fact that’s something I’ve done on my car at every opportunity - galved chassis, bulkhead, capping, doors etc.

Interested to hear what other views might be.

Looked at from the opposite perspective, what’s the down side? A little bit more prep before painting? A little bit more expensive? I think the benefits outweighs any disadvantages. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #1017974 10th Dec 2023 10:58am
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paul 123



Member Since: 10 Jul 2022
Location: norwich
Posts: 82

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 90 300 Tdi PU Caledonian Blue
any thing thats galvanized will last longer so thats the way to go. i have used all galvanized cappings on my 90 rebuild along with chassis and bulkhead.
Post #1017976 10th Dec 2023 11:23am
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2081

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
I cannot see any downside.

The quality of galvanising can vary considerably.

Preparing adequately before painting is key.

👍
Post #1017980 10th Dec 2023 12:31pm
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nutty



Member Since: 18 Nov 2023
Location: iceland
Posts: 2

 
thanks
thanks a lot for your answers, definately going for galvanized Smile
Post #1018025 11th Dec 2023 6:33am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3409

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Re: Galvanised or not
nutty wrote:
I have to buy a new rear corner for my Defender after a small accident and see that there is an option to buy a galvanised part and not galvanised.



Just sharing my experience... I bought aftermarket ones, and found that the rivet holes did not align well, and was reluctant to drill new holes in the tub. So I preferred to repair the damaged corner, and send that for galvanizing.

Post 2012 corners have different rivet hole pattern (more rivet holes). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1018060 11th Dec 2023 2:18pm
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