excossack wrote:

Spent most of the day looking at the Eberspacher heater without much luck (or so I thought)

Moved onto rewiring the heated seats.
The original setup was a voltage sensing relay/module that switched the main relay for the heated seats.
This worked fine for quite some time but recently its been a bit of a pain, clicking in and clicking out - I think it was getting worn out/overly sensitive with voltage drop and not keeping the heated seats turned on.

Following a post about a power feed that comes on when the engine is running, the heated rear window switch wire was mentioned. A quick test with a multi-meter and indeed it does.

Removing the old voltage sensing relay/module and running a wire from the heated rear window switch to the relay for the heated seats soon fixed this issue, and indeed the heated seats now work.

To finish off outside, a tip run was in order.
Packed the car and off to the tip. While there I decided to try the Eberspacher again (just in case....) and I could hear the heater kick in and the fuel pump click and thought no more of it.
Then I heard the familiar sound of the heater exhaust coming to life.
Sure enough warm air appeared.

I gave up and 24c in the car - it was too warm.

I think what’s happening is (and it’s still early days) the 2nd set of batteries to which the heater is wired into might not have been getting full charge and the voltage sensing relay/module was pulling the voltage down? and thus causing the heater to sense a drop in voltage and not kick in?

I am back out tomorrow and chances are a frosty morning will be here. I think tomorrow I will test the heater again and see if its fixed or indeed it was a fluke.

Watch this space!

geobloke wrote:

Click image to enlarge

geobloke wrote:

I should really get around to fitting one of these heaters. Just always throw on an extra layer

The heater works well and worked well this morning as well. Frosty screen before breakfast, no frosted screen by the time I left for work 20mins later  1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

blackwolf wrote:

Not strictly today but yesterday, passed another MoT test.

One small repair needed to pass, first attempt failed with a reported split rubber boot on the drag link ball joint at the steering box end (I have a Gwyn Lewis HD Disco-style conversion). I was surprised at this since the drag link is only a year or two old, but if there was to be a fault that is an easy fix. So drove home, popped the balljoint apart and found that actually the boot was in perfect condition, it had just for some reason slipped out from under the retaining spring clip. So a quick clean up, regrease, reassembly, and I was good for the retest within 35 minutes of leaving with the "deferred success" certificate including 10 minutes driving time and the time it took to get the tools out and put them away, all at zero cost for the repair.

Not bad for a 16-year-old vehicle with 270,000 miles on the clock!

Mine was due around the same time as yours BW - to my surprise mine was a clean sweep with nothing at all on it. With steps just advised last time (corrosion as usual..).
A quick and cost free fix is always good!
Mines on 96k so quite a bit to go yet to get to your mileage, though she’s going to need a service imminently so plenty to be getting on with.  ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️