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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 815

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Brake change, and whilst you are in there etc.
So I need to change my brake disks and pads.

for that I know I need to take 1/2 the axel apart Smile

Is there a list of all parts needed anywhere, I have looked but not found a full list. Also whilst I am in there is there anything else that people normally change.

As I live in Spain, most my parts I have to bring in via courier from the UK, so if I miss a bolt, gasket or even something else it could mean my defender is out of action for 2-3 weeks.

I know some places do kits, but previous experience on other cars when you purchase a kit, there is always something thats not included, or some parts of the kit are "lower quality" so you end up getting that part separate even though its in the kit.

Also thinking about looking at redoing the swivels whilst I am in there, but I think thats overkill

Any hints to the full parts list would be appreciated. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1012397 24th Oct 2023 8:07am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Parts needed (per axle):
    Brake pads (1 set)
    Brake disks (1 pair)
    Stake nuts for stub axle (2)
    Gasket for drive member (2)


This is presuming that you have the original configuration of wheel-bearings (stake nut and select-to-fit inter-bearing spacer and no-one has done the sensible thing and converted to the earlier two-nut-no-spacer arrangement).

It's probably sensible to repack the wheel-bearings while the hub is off, so add a suitable lithium grease to the list. There are other parts you may need (stub axles, hub oil seals, wheel-bearings etc) if you uncover a total disaster whilst dismantling, but it is likely that you would already know of problems if things were that bad.

Be careful when removing the old stake nuts from the stub axle since it is relatively easy to damage the threads on the stub axle to the point where a new stub axle becomes necessary, and don't buy Britpart stake nuts unless you are a masochist and enjoy weeping.
Post #1012400 24th Oct 2023 8:28am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 815

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Perfect, I think I have the original stake nut on there (when I looked the other day did not look like double nuts)

So nothing different than I was actually expecting thats good to know, thanks BlackWolf. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1012408 24th Oct 2023 9:03am
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4206

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
While you are in there, as a minimum I would clean/inspect the wheel bearings and stub axle and replace the seal on the back of the hub. Also, new paper gaskets for the drive flanges. Pulling the swivels is additional work and personally I wouldn't do it unless there's a leak, play or other problem. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #1012418 24th Oct 2023 9:25am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2414

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Inner hub seal FTC4785 (just in case)
Loctite 520
14mm bi-hex socket Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #1012422 24th Oct 2023 10:33am
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ibsley



Member Since: 01 Aug 2023
Location: Nimes
Posts: 23

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
blackwolf wrote:

This is presuming that you have the original configuration of wheel-bearings (stake nut and select-to-fit inter-bearing spacer and no-one has done the sensible thing and converted to the earlier two-nut-no-spacer arrangement).


That's interesting to me – what would the sensible conversion result in?
Post #1012557 25th Oct 2023 10:34am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Easily adjustable wheel-bearing preload with the ability easily to readjust for wear, and obviation of the need for a ridiculously big torque wrench to fit the nub nut.
Post #1012560 25th Oct 2023 10:45am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 815

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
I am used to torquing wheels to 400nm +, (not quick fit worker) but on race cars with centre lock hubs.

So high torque not an issue, thread locker not an issue, but will pickup them inner hub seals.

My main worry is having the car in the air for 2 weeks whilst I wait for a parcel to arrive with a part that I missed to order. Customs is the delay mainly. And when I try to purchase locally normally that arrives after the UK parcel. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1012564 25th Oct 2023 10:54am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2414

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Also check the health of the the rubber dust caps in case you use the std flanges. I just serviced a 2008 110" and they were disintegrated and glued inside the wheel centre. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #1012571 25th Oct 2023 11:10am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 815

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks guys

I have some of them different caps to go on (with the big nut). Then single piece rear half shafts so will do that at the same time and remove the need for the rubber caps Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1013158 30th Oct 2023 7:49am
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Not sure how long you have had the vehicle or when last you did the brakes, but perhaps consider the bolts for the calipers. Whilst they may be OK to remove now, think about when they will be removed next time and how good they will be then.

Also inspect your brake lines and flexes to make sure you can assess the state of them before starting the job.

I have a 300tdi so can't tell you what kit you will need, but when I take any bolts out, even if they seem OK, I consider what they are going to bo like the next time I need to remove them.
Post #1013292 30th Oct 2023 11:35pm
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Screbble



Member Since: 26 Apr 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2081

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Absolutely agree with Mossberg about replacing those pesky caliper bolts whilst you have the opportunity.

I suspect that decision may be made for you when you are removing them.
Post #1013296 31st Oct 2023 6:50am
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