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Ad-doublecab



Member Since: 05 Jan 2021
Location: London
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi DCPU Loire Blue
Battery how long..
Hi guys,

Had a new battery fitted to our 2011 2.4 but if left for 1.5 weeks the battery hasn’t got enough power to start!

It does have a immobiliser aftermarket radio etc is this normal or do I have something drawing to much power?

Cheers
Post #1009145 27th Sep 2023 4:35pm
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5111

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
Presuming the new battery had a full charge when fitted (honestly not all of them do) then the charge should last longer than ten days even with the items drawing power you mention. For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #1009147 27th Sep 2023 4:50pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17441

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Something is not right, it should last longer than that.
Post #1009148 27th Sep 2023 4:51pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 531

United Kingdom 
I'd say you have an excessive drain..
Not sure what the acceptable paracitic drain is on a defender but would be unlikely to exceed 50 mili amps.. Most probably less.. So at that sort of draw you could expect 3 or 4 weeks at least and still expect a start..
You really need to determine what the draw is.. Then try and trace it by isolating circuits..
Post #1009150 27th Sep 2023 4:54pm
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Ad-doublecab



Member Since: 05 Jan 2021
Location: London
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi DCPU Loire Blue
Thanks guys time to get the multimeter out!
Post #1009152 27th Sep 2023 5:11pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 531

United Kingdom 
If you have a clamp meter for checking current your task will be much easier.. Save breaking in to the circuit. And it should be sensitive enough for this task..
This is the one I use..

Click image to enlarge
Post #1009155 27th Sep 2023 5:27pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
Which make and model of battery did you fit ?
Post #1009177 27th Sep 2023 7:14pm
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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 896

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Santorini Black
I would generally expect a battery to last 3-5 weeks. Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #1009183 27th Sep 2023 7:29pm
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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 289

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver
I know mine's a 2.2, but I get about 3-4 weeks of sitting and a good start, little sluggish, but nothing I would consider poor.

Did you chage the battery prior to installation, or after fitting go for a long run to fully charge and condition the battery? Even the VARTA I got from Tayna Batteries needed an overnight top up from a CTEK MXS 5 (5 amp chager) before I did the install. Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion
Post #1009198 27th Sep 2023 8:55pm
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Ad-doublecab



Member Since: 05 Jan 2021
Location: London
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi DCPU Loire Blue
andy63 wrote:
If you have a clamp meter for checking current your task will be much easier.. Save breaking in to the circuit. And it should be sensitive enough for this task..
This is the one I use..

Click image to enlarge


Thanks I shall order one 👍
Post #1009200 27th Sep 2023 9:18pm
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Ad-doublecab



Member Since: 05 Jan 2021
Location: London
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi DCPU Loire Blue
If I’ve done this right I’m getting a reading of 02.48 (clamp multi meter I’ve disconnected the negative battery terminal and clamped to that set to dc 60A)
Post #1009869 3rd Oct 2023 9:19am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 531

United Kingdom 
Not sure I'm following you correctly.. You can measure the current on the negative lead from battery to chassi.. But it has to be connected.. If it wasn't connected you wouldn't have a circuit and the reading should be zero..

2.48 amps is high.. Your battery wouldn't be good for more than a day at that drain.. Your meter is on the dc scale???
Post #1009873 3rd Oct 2023 9:46am
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Ad-doublecab



Member Since: 05 Jan 2021
Location: London
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi DCPU Loire Blue
Ah okay the guide I found said to disconnect the negative use the red to the cars negative and black to the battery negative but I wasn’t getting anything so I used the clamp to the negative lead. I’ll reconnect and try it how you have said, Thank you will update wi the results!
Post #1009876 3rd Oct 2023 9:59am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 531

United Kingdom 
The clamp type meter doesn't require the circuit to be broken and leads attached.. That is the case with traditional multimeters..
With the clamp meter just switch it to the current setting and place the clamp around one of the circuit wires.. As I said make sure it's on the dc scale.. That should give you a reading.. It ma take a few seconds to settle to a steady reading.. I'm sure there will be plenty on you tube, which will cover it far more clearly than me👍
Post #1009879 3rd Oct 2023 10:15am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1081

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
The clamp Amp meter is not as accurate as wiring in the Amp meter (in serial with the battery). The clamp is great for reading high amps without being able to disconnect like: is my alternator charging. When you wire in the Amp meter you can easily fry your meter as it typically only rated for 2 or 10 Amps and if you are lucky has a fuse.

To measure parasitic losses that would drain a battery you are looking at ~250 - 500mA (0.25-0.5A) so you can disconnect the single negative battery lead and then wire in your Amp meter between the battery terminal and the negative lead. Then don't switch on the car because any large draw will go through your amp meter..

With the parasitic loss shown you can now start pulling fuses one by one to see where the losses take place. I bet you it is the radio or any aftermarket alarm system so start there.
Post #1009882 3rd Oct 2023 10:23am
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