 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Axle Spring Seats - How bad are these?! |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17452   
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Hmm, I think I'd be looking for a replacement axle.
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20th Aug 2023 11:43am |
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| Dick Member Since: 06 Jul 2023 Location: London / Devon Posts: 57 
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That was actually my first thought….
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20th Aug 2023 12:25pm |
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| Dick Member Since: 06 Jul 2023 Location: London / Devon Posts: 57
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Next question then - can you buy just the axle case / tube, as all my other bits seem to be working fine?
Inital searching is bringing up whole axles with diffs brakes and all and I don’t really want to pay £1800 for a load of surplus parts! |
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20th Aug 2023 12:33pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628  
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You can buy a weld on replacement about £10 each, I did a set two days ago. I use an inclinometer before I cut the old ones off, but there’s other ways.
Plenty of other suppliers offer them https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-axle-coil...r-classic/ Last edited by NickMc on 20th Aug 2023 2:24pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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20th Aug 2023 12:38pm |
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| Dick Member Since: 06 Jul 2023 Location: London / Devon Posts: 57
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This was also a thought - and a much cheaper alternative!
Good shout on the inclinometer! Don’t suppose you’re near London and fancy doing another pair?!……..  |
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20th Aug 2023 12:52pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628
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Just the Irish Sea between us
It’s not a hard job at all, takes about an hour, maybe see if you can find a tame welder(try a local fab or engineering shop and offer some cash), you could do it with an ARC welder which would make it simpler and less to drag about. |
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20th Aug 2023 2:22pm |
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| Mdm Member Since: 11 Sep 2013 Location: Sunny Lancashire Posts: 1628
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yrm parts if the rest of the axle is ok ,easier and cheaper than an axl swap
find a good welder add som galv spring plates anti rust and wax spray would help it last a while longer |
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20th Aug 2023 2:35pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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I was in a similar situation last year. Clearing out all the nooks and cranies before applying Lanoguard. Poking under the bump stop and it flicked off revealing a rust scab. I didn't poke anymore as I thought I may make a hole. I looked at the other brackets and lugs and the cost of weld on parts was adding up.
I decided to put a shout out for an axle case on a local LR Facebook group. I picked an axle case up for £80. This was off one of the Disco off roader guys as they buy up the axles for diffs, halfshafts, etc. I was lucky enough to get the axle complete apart from halfshafts and diffs! I got myself a 200ltr drum and used electrolysis to clean up the axle case. I ended up doing a bit of a refurb with new discs and calipers (they needed doing anyway) and also new bearings. I actually used the stub axles, brake shields and hubs off the axle case - again cleaned with electrolysis. I also made new brake pipes, fitted a new flexi and painted everything red oxide then a black top coat. Yes it's mission creep but it should be good for a while! I did the work myself and I think it was around the £400 mark (fitted the A frame ball joint too). Calipers and discs were Britpart, bearings Timken, ball joint Lemforder, Delphi pads and new bolts and fixings. I am glad I went to the extra work and expense as it should last me a few years now. |
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20th Aug 2023 3:54pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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 Click image to enlarge As I said, mission creep on mine, but I ended up with a fresh looking axle. If you go down the weld on parts route, check all the brackets to make sure you are going to have a good axle when you finish. Give them a good once over with a wire brush to make sure other parts are not in a similar state. I needed to do the brakes on mine anyway and was happy to do the bearings whilst I was at it. My truck is a keeper on a budget, but I don't mind spending on the things that will keep it in good order. Also be aware that doing the electrolysis etc takes time but I didn't mind having mine off the road as it is far from a daily driver. |
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20th Aug 2023 4:20pm |
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| NickMc Member Since: 01 Oct 2014 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1628
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Nice to see I’m not the only one with OCD on brake pipe bends
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20th Aug 2023 5:35pm |
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| Dick Member Since: 06 Jul 2023 Location: London / Devon Posts: 57
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Mossberg that looks amazing.
I’d really love to get to that level of clean, having annoyingly already bought and half way through upgrading: - Brakes (Calipers, pipes, hoses, pads, discs) - Suspension (Shocks, springs, turrets, mounts, et al) And any bearings, fixings, peripherals etc along the way including half shafts etc. One thing I didn’t anticipate was that the axle casings were going to be in such a bad way; I’d been acutely aware that they had been “coated” and that that coat was peeling badly, but I didn’t realise that everything underneath it was sheet rust. The plan was to strip coating off completely and then Lanoguard them to oblivion. May just look to find some new ones now, as unfortunately I just don’t have the time nor space to do the kind of work you have, no matter how much I’d love to. They now have galvanised spring seats anyway, and the front were in a bit better condition, but not the kind of condition that I’d like. Looks like another high ticket item that will get added to the list with the bulkhead. |
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20th Aug 2023 9:28pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2108 
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That’s a lovely job - an absolute credit to you. I really admire your attention to detail. The results speak for themselves 👍 |
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21st Aug 2023 6:11am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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Thanks Screbble. I did put the work in as electrolysis is not quick sometimes, especially as I could only fit half the axle at a time into the drum, but it really does work. You don't realise how thick rust is until the scabs come off. The great thing about replacing the axle case is that you can do all the work on it before you do the swap.
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21st Aug 2023 7:20am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17452
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I should perhaps point out that the reason for my original sentiment and comment is that with that degree of rusting I would be concerned that the integrity of the axle tube had been compromised. If so, there would be no point even attempting to weld on new seats, and it would be frustrating to do so only to find that you simply blew holes in the tube during welding, or the tube itself failed in the near future. I note it is a 90 so unlikely to be as heavily loaded as a long wheelbase model, but I would certainly recommend a thorough inspection of the rest of the axle and a careful assessment of the depth of the rust pits before spending much on it. If the axle is compromised it should be replaced. It is possible to buy a brand new bare axle but a decent second-hand one to refurbish and fit might be more cost effective. |
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21st Aug 2023 8:08am |
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