blackwolf wrote:

You need an e-Torx (external Torx) socket of the appropriate size, widely available from the usual sources (Amazon, Halfords, etc).

They are usually shear bolts so the head breaks off at the relevant torque. The problem usually is removing the old ones. If the photo is your existing lock be aware that they may shear when you try to remove them because the heads should already have been removed.

Thanks Blackwolf. More tools to buy and unlike the UK, tool shops are closed on Bank Holidays (as today) in France. I may have to simply do the French Bank Holiday thing and have a BBQ with a lot of red wine....  Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

jpboost wrote:

Morning,

I don't know if you can replace the switch on its own, I replaced the whole barrel assembly as my issue related to the key rather than the switch.

The bolt in the picture is one of the shear bolts that holds the assembly together.
You're very luck it's still go the bolt head on it, as this means you should be able to (carefully) undo the bolts. For the rest of us in this situation, that bolt head has been snapped off during fitting, and you have the awkward task of getting a drill in there to drill out the remainder of the bolt head.

Normally you have to loosen the dash and move it forward 6 inches to be able to get the drill in there, but with any luck you'll be able to avoid all that.

It's an external torx bolt, and you can buy spanners/sockets to fit in the usual tool shops. I already had the tools as some of the german cars I used to own a decade or so back had bolts like that on some engine/transmission fittings. I can't remember exactly what I used when I changed out my switch, but here's an amazon link to the kinds of spanners I have. I can't remember the sizes though.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Double-Spanner-pr...amp;sr=8-7

Get the right spanner/socket, take some cod liver oil supplements (or whatever is supposed to make you flexible) and go at it.

Good luck!

Thanks JP. I'll see if I can source a set locally. It's a 50/50 gamble where I live. In theory it's quicker buying from a shop (closed today), but DIY/Auto shops are woefully understocked in France and it may be an order-only item. That can be up to three weeks, so then I pop on to Amazon and buy what I need and hope that it's less than three weeks. Whilst nothing would get me to move back to the UK, (perhaps being gifted a quintessential country pub might), I do miss the shops always being open and fully stocked and that in the main an Amazon delivery is at your door in 24hrs.

Here's an example: My wife and I ordered a single box of kitchen tiles TWO weeks before the end of July, ergo two weeks before the start of the French August holidays. On the order it states the tiles will arrive, quote 'mid September at best'. Because the tile shop is closed for the whole of August.  Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

jpboost wrote:

Morning,

I don't know if you can replace the switch on its own, I replaced the whole barrel assembly as my issue related to the key rather than the switch.

Grenadier wrote:

PS. How did you know it was the key rather than the switch? My key turns ok, although I must confess that on thinking about it, I have sometimes found it impossible to unlock without quite a bit of effort. But the reason I went switch is the classic 'heater/radio turn off' when the key is at position 2. It does always start.

jpboost wrote:

Grenadier wrote:

PS. How did you know it was the key rather than the switch? My key turns ok, although I must confess that on thinking about it, I have sometimes found it impossible to unlock without quite a bit of effort. But the reason I went switch is the classic 'heater/radio turn off' when the key is at position 2. It does always start.

Mine suddenly got to the point that the key wouldn't turn. Lots of jiggling about for 10 mins and then it would be fine for a few days.... I couldn't live with the risk of getting stranded, so I just replaced the lot.

After I'd removed it, I did apply graphite lube to the old barrel and it seemed fine after that, so I stuck it on the shelf as a spare. But that said, it's an awkward job, I wouldn't ever bother refitting a second hand one. It'll go in the skip next time I have a sort out.


As someone else commented, I'd try to wedge a suitable sized socket on there and see if they undo. They may well shear anyway, but I'd give it a go. Have you got new bolts to go in? As you're unsure of the fixing I'm assuming you've not bought new ones to go with the switch/barrel?
Plenty of people just refit with normal bolts anyway, and accept the risk of being easier to steal vs the pain of ever having to drill them out again.

Thanks again.

Mmmmmm. Sounds like a similar problem I've had with mine with the key not turning at all and no amount of wiggling (key or wheel) would seem to make it budge. And then it suddenly would. Wonder if I should replace the lot? But does that mean a new key or could you swap the barrel? IF anew key then I guess I'd get a set with two extra locks for the doors? Who'd have thought one such tiny swith could cause so much grief. Meanwhile my wife gets in her (German) car and just drives off....  Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey

Grenadier wrote:

Thanks again.

Mmmmmm. Sounds like a similar problem I've had with mine with the key not turning at all and no amount of wiggling (key or wheel) would seem to make it budge. And then it suddenly would. Wonder if I should replace the lot? But does that mean a new key or could you swap the barrel? IF anew key then I guess I'd get a set with two extra locks for the doors? Who'd have thought one such tiny swith could cause so much grief. Meanwhile my wife gets in her (German) car and just drives off....