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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2269  
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Which vehicle do you have ? A Puma 2.4 or 2.2 or TD5 etc. All wiring diagrams are different.
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25th Apr 2025 11:05am |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 341 
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Hi, amplifiers/powered subs tend to have high current draw therefore require dedicated wiring. Most amps require a substantial power and earth and will have a 'switch on' signal from the head unit via the blue wire at the back of the unit.
What you should do is run an appropriate size cable (6sqmm most likely, rated to 50amps or 4sqmm approx 35 amps) from the live terminal of the battery to the amp, put an appropriately rated fuse inline either near the battery or near the amp, whichever is most convenient. The fuse size and cable size will be determined by the specification of the amplifier. For the earth run the same size cable direct from the amp negative to the battery negative. To keep it all tidy you can buy twin core black/red cable in various sizes according to your power consumption. That way the cable run together for the sake of convenience. Good luck! |
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25th Apr 2025 11:09am |
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| foremanyvr Member Since: 04 Mar 2025 Location: Vancouver Posts: 15  
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I have a 2000 110 crew cab TD5
Thx
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25th Apr 2025 3:17pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20751
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Fuse should be always near the supply, or as close as reasonably possible, taking extra care to ensure the input if applicable to the fuse holder is 100% secure. So if taking power from the battery, ideally within 20” of the battery + positive post. The fuse is to protect the cable more than the device, if you wrongly place a fuse holder near the device aka Amp. Then, if a short to ground occurs between the supply source, and the fuse holder then it (that section of cable) is unprotected, the cable will heat up, burn off the insulation, go red / white hot and catch fire. You can use primary and secondary fusing too, so higher main fusing first, then down the line beyond secondary fusing, use lower rated cable and fuse rating, which is useful, more complex, but safer, but not needed, unless you need power distribution. (More than one Amp) The cable always, as I think you stated needs to be current rated above the device current draw, as does the fusing, but the fuse rating needs to be lower than the cables max rating. Plus there is voltage drop over distance, but by oversizing cable that isn’t usually an issue unless a long vehicle.. Some Amps have a fuse built in on them, if they do that’s useful to have anyway, but is additional to the fuse you need nearest power source. So if you have a 40A draw Amp, a fuse rating of 50 or 60A would be fine, cable current rating I would say would need to be 80A. TOFC is better as well cable wise. Avoid CCA cable and AGU fuse holder types, AFS or MIDI types are much better and safer. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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25th Apr 2025 9:21pm |
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