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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 803

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
I recently watched a video on YouTube where a guy replaced his half shafts and cured a lot of the backlash and clonks. Maybe pull one and check for wear on the splines?

The advice he had received was to work on replacing components from the outside of the vehicle working in towards the gearbox, So half shafts, prop shafts transfer box etc

Jim


Last edited by jim4244 on 27th Nov 2024 3:44am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1052963 26th Nov 2024 5:01am
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 917

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
The lack of DMF and the way the defenders drivetrain runs through a lot of 'joints' means that any wear is exacerbated, and as above the driving style isn't like many other vehicles, there is a knack to smooth driving.

The Low gearing in first means you must decide if you use it, or simply opt for a 2ND pull away with a slightly gentle clutch to bring the drive in. Using first when not needed means a lot of load / unload through the system for no reason.

I have been through my defender and simply.

Engine (Alive Remap) - LOF CLUTCH - Gearbox - LOF OUTPUTSHAFT - T,box - Propshaft - Axles - One Piece rear shafts / HD Front flanges

is a tour of what has been done to solve what is standard issues from one end to the other.

And it all works to give a smooth drive, certainly isn't worse than my works transit. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #1053013 26th Nov 2024 3:40pm
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 751

United Kingdom 
A shame they don't really like pulling away in 2nd very well either though.

Not knocking the Puma's. I love the low gearing off road and laning. But compared to any other engine fitted to the 90, they are jerky and not smooth.

I've got an old 19j Turbo Diesel out front at the mo, now that really does pull away in 2nd gear as smooth as anything and shames any Puma.

Between my brother, uncle and myself and the farm Land Rover's we have 10 Land Rovers, a couple of Disco's and 3 Range Rovers. Covering pretty much all of the engine/gearbox options offered by LR bar the BMW 2.8 and the Isuzu 4.0 litre.

Dynamically the Puma's are a cut above in terms of refinement, road manners, low end torque, standard grunt etc. But smoothness and road gearing they seem not quite as finished a product. Such as pulling into a driveway or a side turning, where they labour a little too much, but downshifting makes them scream their head off (comparatively speaking).
Post #1053055 26th Nov 2024 9:27pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 108

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I like the low first gear. If I'm towing, fully loaded, or both, it works perfectly.

I have done the same as others (clutch, one-piece output shaft, 3 torsion diffs, HD flanges) and I can't say that I notice much slack any more.
Post #1053066 26th Nov 2024 11:57pm
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steveww



Member Since: 05 Jan 2022
Location: Uppingham
Posts: 569

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Bronze Green
A remap and intake improvements have solved a lot of the jerkiness of my 2.2 TDCi 110. Next up is the half shafts after Christmas. You have to remember it's a Defender by definition somewhat agricultural.
Post #1053228 28th Nov 2024 4:02pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3311

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Re: lmproving the Puma 2.2 tdci
Chicken Drumstick wrote:
lightning wrote:
l have had a Defender TD5 but have no experience with the "Puma" 2.2/2.4

Today l test drove a lovely 30,000 mile 2012 110 XS Commercial. It drove really well except for a couple of things.

First if you take your foot off the gas and then put it back on there's a delay before anything happens, then a jolt as the power comes back in. l was able to work around it by not taking my foot completely off the gas, where possible.

Second there was a lot of transmission clatter or "lash" as the Australians call it, when changing gear. Also if l wasn't careful it would kangaroo a bit when the next gear was selected.

Apart from that it drove well. There didn't seem to be any "slack" in the drive train when going on and off the gas while in gear.

I believe these engines respond very well to a remap. Would a mild/stage 1 remap also improve drive ability, as in reducing the issues l had with smoothness.

Performance seemed fine. And the actual gear change was positive with no problems.

Obviously over the internet this is super hard to diagnose if there is an issue or not. Best bet would be to go and drive another one, even one you aren't interested it, but it'll give you a good benchmark comparison. So if it is the same or worse than this one, you know that this one is probably normal.

And I would massively disagree with almost all the replies here. They are not smooth and renown for being quite jerky to drive.

In the family my Uncle has 2 Puma's on the farm. Both bought brand new. One is a 12 plate that has about 16,000 miles on it (low mileage). The other is a 65 plate with about 12,000 miles on it. They drive identical in terms of gear change and drivetrain and both are jerky as f***!

This is easy to compare to other non Puma Land Rover on the farm and in the family, which currently totals somewhere in the region of 10 other Land Rovers. We have also been in and driven many other Puma's as well as knowing lots of people with Puma's in the local Land Rover club, of which we are all active members and my Uncle and my parents were founding members of.

I'm not saying a Puma is terrible and you can learn to drive around the limitations, but compared to an LT-77 or R380 equipped model, the gear change is not smooth and nor is the throttle.

I've not heard anyone successfully solving these issues either. A remap will not improve it. The 65 plate mentioned above was remapped with some other mods to 190bhp by Alive Tuning. They really don't like you trailing the throttle pedal when you change gear, i.e. even just resting your foot on the throttle pedal at the top of the travel, something you can do with other vehicles such as any other Land Rover 90 prior to the Puma or even your Jimny. If you lift your foot clear off the throttle pedal while you are changing gear it'll improve it, but 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd will require practice and patient to get smooth.

The gearbox shouldn't really be noisy aka "lash" as you say. But if you make the changes jerky, then yes it will seem like it is.


There are loads of clonky Puma’s out there, not to mention dealers who will tell you “they all do that” but they don’t. I have driven quite a few good ones. After a bit *cough*( a lot) of work my 2.4 suffers no backlash whatsoever, changes smoothly both up and down through all the gears and pulls away cleanly with no hesitation in both first and second gear. Now if I ever do suffer from any of those issues it is because a part is on it’s way out or something has broken. As others have said you just need to work your way through the truck. I would also suggest taking it back to Gary to tweak the map. I can tell you from personal experience that neither BAS or TD5 inside remaps suffer with the issues you mention, and although i havn’t had an IRB one I doubt it would either. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #1054529 12th Dec 2024 10:08pm
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