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ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Baltic Blue

Painting chequerplate

...and for my next question...
Wife insists the "natural" finish chequerplate on the rear corners is ugly - I sort of agree and only thought of the practicality rather than thinking the optics through (tend to do that). So I have a few choices:

1) try to paint already fitted anodised chequerplate
2) buy new powder-coated (black) chequerplate, try to paint it and replace the anodised stuff
3) give up

What do you reckon my chances are with each? Quality, longevity etc.
I'm guessing powder-coat takes paint best..?

Suggestions please

Cheers
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

28th Dec 2011 8:17am

Romadog

Member Since: 07 Jul 2011
Location: Powys
Posts: 1749

What colour do you want ?

If black then you could purchase ready painted plate

Or

Buy unpainted and have it powder coated by your own source, just make sure all fixings fit nicely as powder coat will deteriorate if you have to drill / file afterwards

28th Dec 2011 8:37am

chiefstoker

Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: Weston-super-Mud
Posts: 897

..... tell your wife to button it

2005 TD5 90 Hard Top

Beer 'n Sex 'n Chips 'n Gravy

28th Dec 2011 9:00am

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Romadog wrote:
What colour do you want ?

If black then you could purchase ready painted plate

Or

Buy unpainted and have it powder coated by your own source, just make sure all fixings fit nicely as powder coat will deteriorate if you have to drill / file afterwards

I want the same (or as near as damn it) colour as the 110 - "Baltic Blue" (I have the acrylic already).
The plate comes in anodised alu (I have this already) or powder-coated black as standard.
Getting it powder coated blue here would be VERY expensive (if at all possible)... Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

28th Dec 2011 9:01am

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

chiefstoker wrote:
..... tell your wife to button it

Thanks for the constructive advice

I guess what I am really asking is "will powder-coat take acrylic"? Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

28th Dec 2011 9:03am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Apply some etch primer to the existing stuff and then paint it your colour of choice. I don't know what's available over there but I tend to use Finnigans special metal primer, which works well on ali or ss.

Bare in mind though, that a painted finish won't be as resiliant, so be prepared to touch it up if it does get knocked. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

28th Dec 2011 9:25am

leeds

Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

Am not sure how paint will take to an anodised finish.

Have a few words with Paintman on LRO. Guess what is job is?

I would be tempted to get it painted by industrial painters. Cost would be about £25 + materials.

Brendan

28th Dec 2011 9:52am

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

From what I can gather then, it's going to be cheapest/easiest to paint the plate that's already on (thank goodness - drilling out rivets is a PITA).

Thanks Brendan. Sadly, painters here are insanely expensive. I know from experience it would be closer to 100 Euros :shock
Might be cheaper to order some from the UK and get them here via Paintman - I'll check that one out

Still thinking about the socket set

Thanks LRAnorak. Is Finnigans the best etch primer then? I could get some off UK fleabay

Cheers all
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

28th Dec 2011 10:35am

leeds

Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

Hi Matt,
Have asked Paintman about painting anodised chequer plate. Awaiting an answer. Paintman does restoration car type work.

In the lockups we have some industrial spray painters who are more reasonable price then car painters.

If I can help give us a shout.

Brendan

28th Dec 2011 10:41am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

A quick Google search suggest that painting anodised ali is actually easier than bare ali. A good clean and a decent etch primer coat should work well.

I'm not sure if the Finnigans stuff is the best etch primer. I'm not even sure what it is, to be honest, as it's just billed as special metal primer. I've had some good results with it though. Most recently I've used it on the ss intercooler grill supplied K9F but I've used it on ali and galvanised stuff too. The finishing coat always seems to be tougher than you'd otherwise expect.

Th enext project I've got for it is some galvanised First Four roof bars that I want to paint satin black. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

28th Dec 2011 2:35pm

leeds

Member Since: 28 Dec 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 8580

Hi Matt, reply from Paintman

Quote:

I've never painted anodised aluminium.
Googling T-wash does say that it is suitable for use on both galvanised steel & aluminium as a degreasant & etching material prior to using an etch primer.
I've just checked a couple of Technical Data Sheets for an etch primer that I've used & both advise giving the surface a good going over with red Scotchbrite pads before applying the primer. This provides a mechanical key (lots of fine scratches) to help the primer adhere.
HTH & Good Luck

Hope that is useful Matt

Brendan

28th Dec 2011 2:53pm

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

leeds wrote:
Hi Matt, reply from Paintman

Quote:

I've never painted anodised aluminium.
Googling T-wash does say that it is suitable for use on both galvanised steel & aluminium as a degreasant & etching material prior to using an etch primer.
I've just checked a couple of Technical Data Sheets for an etch primer that I've used & both advise giving the surface a good going over with red Scotchbrite pads before applying the primer. This provides a mechanical key (lots of fine scratches) to help the primer adhere.
HTH & Good Luck

Hope that is useful Matt

Brendan

Cheers - next project "primed" and ready

Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

28th Dec 2011 4:28pm

Small Clanger

Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 210

I would have thought you'd have known a thing or two about paint. Matt.

28th Dec 2011 5:05pm

ZeDefender

Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: Munich
Posts: 4731

Small Clanger wrote:
I would have thought you'd have known a thing or two about paint. Matt.

Arf arf

Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

28th Dec 2011 6:07pm

Small Clanger

Member Since: 22 Jun 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 210

Sorry.

I'm just on with painting two 2'x6' pieces of mild steel Durbar chequerplate for decking on either side of my bike trailer. I wish I'd bought anodised alloy now.

28th Dec 2011 8:06pm

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