 | Home > Technical > Ifor Williams Trailer Lights with TD5 |
 
|
|
|
| grafty99 Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: North Devon Posts: 4785   
|
That'll almost definitely be an earthing issue on the trailer. Likely corrosion or a poor contact
It's worth checking the socket on the defender for dirt/corrosion but the fact it doesn't work on the L200 would suggest trailer fault to me. 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon 1990 Vogue SE Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200 Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html Instagram http://www.instagram.com/george_grafton |
||
2nd Jul 2024 7:08am |
|
| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5683 
|
Get yourself a tow electrics tester. I got mine from eBay relatively cheap. It tests the vehicle socket, and can be plugged into the trailer and test them.
|
||
|
2nd Jul 2024 7:57am |
|
| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 455  
|
It amazes me how poor trailer lights are. Most probably a poor connection between the trailer and the socket, but poor connections within the lights otherwise. They’re a nuisance! I’d bet it’s the trailer at fault, but the tester mentioned seems a great idea, good luck!
|
||
|
2nd Jul 2024 8:35am |
|
| roche1800 Member Since: 07 Apr 2020 Location: derbyshire Posts: 328 |
Is there an earthing point on the trailer that I can check
|
||
|
2nd Jul 2024 8:57am |
|
| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1041  
|
Most trailer electrics are shocking and then there is the abuse they face. There are some attempts to make it more modular and stronger. You can buy a molded cable which has a car plug on one side and two or more light plugs on the other which plug/screw into light fittings all waterproof etc. |
||
|
2nd Jul 2024 9:22am |
|
| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 455
|
I’ve never come across one! I think they earth through the car. Whenever mine have played up ( often) I find it’s usually the contacts either at the plug or around the bulbs. Bad earths cause some strange things, generally a flashing side light or indicator when the brakes are operating. I’d make sure for certain that it’s not the tow cars socket first, then go from there. |
||
|
2nd Jul 2024 10:44am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17360 
|
The wiring on my IW trailer (LM146) is actually very well-designed. It is (as I recall) wired return (so no trailer earth) but there is a reasonably well-sealed junction box at front and rear and it has been properly engineered.
I think, as has been noted above, most trailers suffer from a horrendous lack of maintenance, but if looked after a good trailer, such as an IW or Brenderup etc., should be reliable both mechanically and electrically for years. I suggest that you get underneath and sort out the trailer properly, it will then be good for years. |
||
|
2nd Jul 2024 11:29am |
|
| RFT Member Since: 13 Nov 2010 Location: Cheshire Posts: 678 
|
IW trailer wiring is normally very robust, the only issue I have ever had is after years of issue free towing with LR130 I then used the Volvo XC60 to tow and the lights were a nightmare, stacks of diagnosis later and nothing found to explain the issues, then I randomly decided to swap the trailer lead around (it has same plug on both end and a 13pin socket on the trailer body) and guess what all the lights worked perfectly, I checked the continuity / pin assignments and nothing found, so I just put it down to the weird mating of a Welsh trailer with a Swedish car.
Long story short, try swapping the trailer lead around! 130 Puma HCPU with an Artica 240LR Demountable Camper |
||
|
2nd Jul 2024 8:23pm |
|
| RonanGuerin Member Since: 09 Jun 2023 Location: Scotland Posts: 6 
|
Seeing as they don’t work properly with your L200 it’s probably a trailer problem but I faced plenty issues with my 90 when towing (lights work one minute and not the next) socket looked clean and new”ish” but once I took it apart, all the connections were waterlogged and corroded. Well worth sticking on a new one as they are so cheap, good quality ferrules and some dielectric grease can save a lot of hassle, especially with winter coming. Like the other guys have said, a light tester from eBay is one of them tools that will come in very handy. Or even they can be made with some switches and a 12v power tool battery if you are up for a project. |
||
|
8th Oct 2024 9:07pm |
|
| revd Member Since: 20 Apr 2024 Location: England Posts: 110
|
I always start by cleaning the pins and sockets in both connectors with some fine wet and dry, usually 'bingo'.
|
||
|
9th Oct 2024 8:32am |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20318
|
Definitely start with the earth, you can find generic wiring diagrams for the plugs be it 12N & 12S or the new 13 pin.
Once you’ve established a good reliable earth present, you can then via continuity checks, check all grounds are correctly reading with a resistance check, the lower the reading of impedance the better. Once that all checks out, you can then do the same on the live side with the power off. You can even check the bulb filaments with a continuity check if they are incandescent (not LED). A lot of people just check bulbs and holders, fuses etc and only concentrate on the live side, without the earthing side that’s the other half of the circuit, a bulb holder with a higher than expected continuity will cause trouble too. Water and corrosion are the common issues. If you have a multimeter, you can check all connections with that by reading voltage on the vehicle side. Just be sure to fully identify the ground pin first, and use the correct setting on the multimeter. Yes, you can buy dedicated testing tool for 12n & 12S or the 13 pin too, but the uses of those will be limited, for example just because a testing tool indicator light flashes that there is voltage present in the circuit, doesn’t mean that impedance isn’t higher than expected. On the towing vehicle, there is a ground present anyway, but it doesn’t hurt to add another on top additionally which is what I did, as well as completely seal the intervals (of the 12N socket) with silicone as it’s non conductive, and will forever keep water out which WILL get in there if you don’t. The ground on the trailer is from the towing vehicle by the socket, the trailer itself doesn’t have chassis ground, though some may anyway additionally, but the tow hitch assembly isn't suitable for a ground transition point electrically speaking. So don’t assume that because the trailer is hitched to vehicle it is grounded, it isn't, it is via the ground lead in the plug socket pin, and that needs to be a good ground all the way from the towing vehicle all the way to the ground pin on the lighting circuit sockets, naturally there will be some resistance due to wire length, circuit length but shouldn’t be excessive. The higher the resistance the higher the circuit current draw will climb. All of these things can be tested with a Multimeter. As Blackwolf mentions, most trailers have a good sealed junction box, but if it isn’t it is well worth fitting one that is. Mine doesn’t have a junction box, it’s only light but I’ve only replaced two front sidelight bulbs in ten years. Often problems start when a DIY install has been done, possibly by someone who is unsure as to what they are doing with it. A light smear of electrical grease on bulb holders can be good, very light, not so good on the tow plug and socket as could cause more harm than good by being attractive to dirt and debris that can cause more hinder even than help! ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
||
|
9th Oct 2024 12:56pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
