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Home > Technical > Brake shields remove or replace
Remove or replace brake shield
Remove
42%
 42%  [19]
Replace
57%
 57%  [26]
Total Votes: 45

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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1913

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Brake shields remove or replace
While upgrading my brakes all round i noticed the brake shields are corroded and look awful, I recall a discussion many moons ago about replacing them or just removing them
There’s pros and cons for both but what do the majority of you think?

Remove and not replace
Or
Replace them

Are they mud traps? Stone traps? Useless? Stop cool air? Provide protection? 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #828960 2nd May 2020 8:33pm
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swt



Member Since: 24 Aug 2018
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 160

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I'm always getting a stone jammed, and I've more than once bent them while offroad, only to be alerted by a horrible whining noise and a burning smell as they rub on the brake disc. Its a dirty and difficult job to get underneath and bend them back again in the middle of nowhere.

They seem quite flimsy for protection, and I'd gladly be rid of them. However, would I be doing worse damage, to more important things, if they weren't there?
Post #828976 2nd May 2020 10:29pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2637

Scotland 
Really it depends on your use of the vehicle.

If you do heavy muddy off roading then take them off as they will trap mud/stones and make cleaning difficult.

For normal driving and standard green laning type off roading then leave them on. They prevent excessive brake wear on the rear pads particularly and also keep a lot of road spray off the discs which helps with braking after driving on wet roads (motorways especially).
Post #828981 2nd May 2020 10:54pm
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
It would be great if you could get galvanized ones!
Post #828984 3rd May 2020 5:58am
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bear100



Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1913

Wales 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
There are galve ones out there at around £50 each Shocked

Looked at another site just now and they had a poll on the same question, with the exception of 2 or 3 everyone said remove a lot said it’s one of the first jobs they do! 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)
Post #828990 3rd May 2020 7:06am
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Thon



Member Since: 22 Nov 2015
Location: Salisbury Plain
Posts: 696

United Kingdom 
Retroanaconda wrote:
Really it depends on your use of the vehicle.

If you do heavy muddy off roading then take them off as they will trap mud/stones and make cleaning difficult.

For normal driving and standard green laning type off roading then leave them on. They prevent excessive brake wear on the rear pads particularly and also keep a lot of road spray off the discs which helps with braking after driving on wet roads (motorways especially).

Echoing above, I would keep them on - I do quite a lot of wading and muddy fun stuff and have found that it's a minor inconvenience to have a bit of light squeaking. The benefit of keeping the road spray off the discs is one worth having - never much fun waiting for the pads to clear the spray off the discs when you most need them. They won't protect your brakes from anything much apart from the spray but they're worth it for that IMHO.
Post #829132 3rd May 2020 10:00pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2217

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
I'm told there is a benefit of less wear in the rear pads. Has anyone else found this ?
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #829160 4th May 2020 9:09am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17337

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I have certainly found that rear pad life becomes greatly extended as soon as the rear calipers seize, which they are rather prone to doing. The downside is that the rate of wear on the front pads accelerates! Rolling with laughter
Post #829175 4th May 2020 9:44am
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2637

Scotland 
When I was doing a lot of forest road miles I used to go through a set of rear pads in less than 5,000 miles due to road spray laden with grit. Putting the rear guards back on resolved this entirely.
Post #829178 4th May 2020 9:58am
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roel



Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Netherlands 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Caledonian Blue
My first 90 had shields till the front ones fell off.
My Camel Disco had the shields too.
My D3 G4 V8 had the shield but was mainly used on the road.
My current 90 td5 had shields but I took them off.

All these Land Rovers used more rear brake pads than front brake pads at almost 2 to 1. Only the D3 is was about 1 1/2 to 1.

A day off-road in wet sand eats my rear pads and most off the front pads. And I don't have TC Mr. Green Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)
Post #829246 4th May 2020 5:22pm
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keith



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 2211

Scotland 
I think the question being asked is.
“Should I replace” ( looks good, easy and clean ) NO EFFORT. Vs
“should I refurbish” ( scrape, prime, paint ) LOTSA EFFORT.
It’s a throwaway world and too easy to pickup the phone and new shiny part arrives the next day. I as others have done just this many times. But it’s a time of austerity and if your saving the pennies then no option but refurbish.
I also asked this very question about this very part only yesterday as I replaced a new disk and shocker.
So, I refurbished. Scrape, wire brush, bleeding knuckle and some primer and paint later.
Good as new. Perhaps in another 8yrs I’ll treat myself to a new one. Very Happy



Click image to enlarge
Post #829264 4th May 2020 6:43pm
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Eduardo



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Región Metropolitana
Posts: 2109

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Humm...

Both rear brake shields almost was destroyed due stones in Tierra del Fuego. So finally I decided to do not replace it.

Cheers Eduardo

MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64'
MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo"

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Post #829268 4th May 2020 7:01pm
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BogMonster



Member Since: 05 Feb 2008
Location: Stanley
Posts: 400

Falkland Islands 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Retroanaconda wrote:
When I was doing a lot of forest road miles I used to go through a set of rear pads in less than 5,000 miles due to road spray laden with grit. Putting the rear guards back on resolved this entirely.


Down here on unsurfaced roads in the winter the pads can wear out in as little as 3 weeks in extremely poor conditions. Not having the guards on accelerates the wear considerably - I once took them off a vehicle I had and fairly quickly put them back on again! They don't stop pad wear in extreme conditions but they do slow it down by keeping most of the hurricane of gritty mud and water outside the wheel.

The problem with the guards here is usually fatigue cracking rather than corrosion, so new is the only option unless you like trying to weld up coke can metal. ---
2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi
Post #829361 5th May 2020 10:39am
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Neilios



Member Since: 01 Nov 2017
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 169

England 1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi HCPU Keswick Green
I like to replace them as that’s how they are meant to be, here’s my process for a rebuild on a vehicle planned to spend most of its time on the road towing and carrying things.

New parts.



Click image to enlarge



Blasted parts


Click image to enlarge


Galvanised for a long life



Click image to enlarge


But if it was for a mud plugger, pay and play or competition vehicle they would be removed. Hope that helps you decide what’s best for you. 1997 110 Hi-Cap Keswick Green
1997 90 Truck Cab Blue
1996 Discovery Pickup
Post #829452 6th May 2020 5:36am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
I think I noticed in one of the mags this month that Britpart are now supplying them galved.

I've not much doubt that a proper DIY job as above will give better results, but for ease it might be an option. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #829486 6th May 2020 9:09am
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