 | Home > Technical > Brake shields remove or replace |
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||
 
|
|
|
| swt Member Since: 24 Aug 2018 Location: Cumbria Posts: 160   
|
I'm always getting a stone jammed, and I've more than once bent them while offroad, only to be alerted by a horrible whining noise and a burning smell as they rub on the brake disc. Its a dirty and difficult job to get underneath and bend them back again in the middle of nowhere.
They seem quite flimsy for protection, and I'd gladly be rid of them. However, would I be doing worse damage, to more important things, if they weren't there? |
||
2nd May 2020 10:29pm |
|
| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2637 
|
Really it depends on your use of the vehicle.
If you do heavy muddy off roading then take them off as they will trap mud/stones and make cleaning difficult. For normal driving and standard green laning type off roading then leave them on. They prevent excessive brake wear on the rear pads particularly and also keep a lot of road spray off the discs which helps with braking after driving on wet roads (motorways especially). |
||
|
2nd May 2020 10:54pm |
|
| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666 
|
It would be great if you could get galvanized ones!
|
||
|
3rd May 2020 5:58am |
|
| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1913  
|
There are galve ones out there at around £50 each
Looked at another site just now and they had a poll on the same question, with the exception of 2 or 3 everyone said remove a lot said it’s one of the first jobs they do! 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
||
|
3rd May 2020 7:06am |
|
| Thon Member Since: 22 Nov 2015 Location: Salisbury Plain Posts: 696
|
Echoing above, I would keep them on - I do quite a lot of wading and muddy fun stuff and have found that it's a minor inconvenience to have a bit of light squeaking. The benefit of keeping the road spray off the discs is one worth having - never much fun waiting for the pads to clear the spray off the discs when you most need them. They won't protect your brakes from anything much apart from the spray but they're worth it for that IMHO. |
||
|
3rd May 2020 10:00pm |
|
| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2217 
|
I'm told there is a benefit of less wear in the rear pads. Has anyone else found this ?
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
||
|
4th May 2020 9:09am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17338 
|
I have certainly found that rear pad life becomes greatly extended as soon as the rear calipers seize, which they are rather prone to doing. The downside is that the rate of wear on the front pads accelerates!
 |
||
|
4th May 2020 9:44am |
|
| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2637
|
When I was doing a lot of forest road miles I used to go through a set of rear pads in less than 5,000 miles due to road spray laden with grit. Putting the rear guards back on resolved this entirely.
|
||
|
4th May 2020 9:58am |
|
| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
|
My first 90 had shields till the front ones fell off.
My Camel Disco had the shields too. My D3 G4 V8 had the shield but was mainly used on the road. My current 90 td5 had shields but I took them off. All these Land Rovers used more rear brake pads than front brake pads at almost 2 to 1. Only the D3 is was about 1 1/2 to 1. A day off-road in wet sand eats my rear pads and most off the front pads. And I don't have TC  Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
||
|
4th May 2020 5:22pm |
|
| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2211
|
I think the question being asked is.
“Should I replace” ( looks good, easy and clean ) NO EFFORT. Vs “should I refurbish” ( scrape, prime, paint ) LOTSA EFFORT. It’s a throwaway world and too easy to pickup the phone and new shiny part arrives the next day. I as others have done just this many times. But it’s a time of austerity and if your saving the pennies then no option but refurbish. I also asked this very question about this very part only yesterday as I replaced a new disk and shocker. So, I refurbished. Scrape, wire brush, bleeding knuckle and some primer and paint later. Good as new. Perhaps in another 8yrs I’ll treat myself to a new one. 
 Click image to enlarge |
||
|
4th May 2020 6:43pm |
|
| Eduardo Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Región Metropolitana Posts: 2109  
|
Humm...
Both rear brake shields almost was destroyed due stones in Tierra del Fuego. So finally I decided to do not replace it. Cheers Eduardo MY 2007 110 SW PUMA 2.4: Big Fog of 64' MY 1994 Jayco 1207 Folding camper: "El Tremendo" Click image to enlarge |
||
|
4th May 2020 7:01pm |
|
| BogMonster Member Since: 05 Feb 2008 Location: Stanley Posts: 400  
|
Down here on unsurfaced roads in the winter the pads can wear out in as little as 3 weeks in extremely poor conditions. Not having the guards on accelerates the wear considerably - I once took them off a vehicle I had and fairly quickly put them back on again! They don't stop pad wear in extreme conditions but they do slow it down by keeping most of the hurricane of gritty mud and water outside the wheel. The problem with the guards here is usually fatigue cracking rather than corrosion, so new is the only option unless you like trying to weld up coke can metal. --- 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Tdi • 2011 Ford Ranger XLT crewcab • 2015 Defender 110 Station Wagon Utility TDCi |
||
|
5th May 2020 10:39am |
|
| Neilios Member Since: 01 Nov 2017 Location: Co. Durham Posts: 169  
|
I like to replace them as that’s how they are meant to be, here’s my process for a rebuild on a vehicle planned to spend most of its time on the road towing and carrying things.
New parts. Click image to enlarge Blasted parts Click image to enlarge Galvanised for a long life Click image to enlarge But if it was for a mud plugger, pay and play or competition vehicle they would be removed. Hope that helps you decide what’s best for you. 1997 110 Hi-Cap Keswick Green 1997 90 Truck Cab Blue 1996 Discovery Pickup |
||
|
6th May 2020 5:36am |
|
| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 
|
I think I noticed in one of the mags this month that Britpart are now supplying them galved.
I've not much doubt that a proper DIY job as above will give better results, but for ease it might be an option. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
||
|
6th May 2020 9:09am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
