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Gonk



Member Since: 18 Aug 2024
Location: Baldivis, WA
Posts: 3

Australia 
Possible ECU failure
Hi Folks. I joined just now and have a question already.

Please direct me to the right place if this has been discussed already. Otherwise, pull up a chair, make yourself a cuppa, and settle in. This is a good one.

I have a starting problem.

I have a 2013 Defender Puma 2.2 with dual batteries, 1 starter and 1 aux.

I let the battery run down flat, car wouldn't start emitting that clicking noise suggesting a flat battery.
I took out both batteries and charged the starter battery. Aux battery is charged while the engine is running and doesn't affect ignition.
After charging the starter battery, I installed it, tried starting the engine, which turned over and started then immediately stopped. Tried again, same thing.
I thought it was the immobiliser as the red light was still lit on the dash. Pressed unlock on the remote key fob, and nothing. No door locks moving, no indicator lights flashing. Tried the other key fob. Nothing.
Also, I noticed that the alarm did not go off when I opened the door.

Checked all the fuses - all good and secure.
Checked relays - all secure

I did some research, and found a way to start. I have to turn key and try and start, remove key, remove a 30A fuse from under driver's seat, turn key and try to start again, remove key, then re-insert fuse, and car will start and behave normally.
I'm sure this way of starting is not ideal.
I changed the batteries in both remotes while I was sitting in the car as per driver's manual procedure.

I suspect that the ECU has lost sync with the remotes, so I took it to a place that could reset and sync ECU and remotes.

They plugged in their diagnostic tool and told me that there was an error, "No Communication" with the ECU.

Now I don't want to go and shell out for a new ECU if possible, so does anyone have any suggestions?

Here's hoping it's a simple fix, but as a relatively new Defender owner, I doubt it!

Im no auto sparky, but I have good mechanical skills.

Please help!!

Gonk
Post #1043081 18th Aug 2024 6:47am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 532

United Kingdom 
I have some experience with the ford twin battery set up in the ford transit..it may be similar..
What I remember is that it's a great set up, but the aux or second battery pretty well takes care of most of the vehicle systems and if that is not well charged it can cause all manner of strange behaviour..so the first thing I'd make sure of is that your aux battery is in fact in good condition..ie charged and still has good capacity as that's what is likely running the alarm central locking and everything else that consumes power when the engine isn't running..
On the transits I think the first indication of a failing aux battery was strange behaviour of the remote fob..
Post #1043234 19th Aug 2024 7:34pm
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s55shh



Member Since: 30 Dec 2019
Location: staffs
Posts: 193

United Kingdom 
my ECU was spiked when it went flat in bodyshop. Obviously they claimed it was nothing to do with them jump starting it. I ended up having the ECU recoded so it would work but without remote locking and used cat 1 alarm to do the central locking instead
Post #1043239 19th Aug 2024 7:54pm
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Gonk



Member Since: 18 Aug 2024
Location: Baldivis, WA
Posts: 3

Australia 
The aux battery charges when the engine is running. It's mostly on 100%, maybe drops a percent when I leave it overnight.

It's a bit of a ball ache. I should have taken a photo of the setup before I took the battery out.
I'll try swapping some of the same colour leads around from aux to main battery. It seems coincidental that this started happening after I re-installed batteries.

One of the positive leads does get quite hot when the aux battery is charging, cools down when on 100%. Lead has an in-line fuse, so hoping it will blow before lead melts, unless fuse it too high.

Also, I have a compressor under the driver's seat which also stopped working on battery re-installation.

At a stretch, I could find out where the dual battery set-up was originally done and take it back there if not too far away.

Thanks for your input. It gives me food for thought.
Post #1043299 20th Aug 2024 12:48pm
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Gonk



Member Since: 18 Aug 2024
Location: Baldivis, WA
Posts: 3

Australia 
Update;

Compressor works again, aux. battery charging wire and fuse was changed as rating was too small.

But, it's come to the crunch folks. I need to take the Defender to a specialist to get the starting issue fixed.

Does anyone have any suggestions for such a person in Western Australia? I am 45km south of Perth CBD.
I'm pretty sure it's an electrical problem regarding the ECU/alarm/immobiliser/central locking or thereabouts. I'm no expert so that is just an educated guess.

Thanks in advance.

Gonk
Post #1047957 7th Oct 2024 1:10pm
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skidrov



Member Since: 06 Oct 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 56

Australia 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Fuji White
A couple of suggestions.

If you have not already, I would suggest joining https://www.aulro.com/afvb/index.php?. There is always excellent advice here, but likewise on the AULRO forum, and closer to home.

And then following on from that: a regular contributor is Daz from https://www.aztech4x4.com.au/. I am in Melbourne, and so have not used his shop, but he is (more) in your part of the world. I did note you're 45 km from Perth, but he's closer than the UK Very Happy .
Post #1048005 8th Oct 2024 12:17am
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Julie



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 498

France 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
Gonk wrote:

I'm pretty sure it's an electrical problem regarding the ECU/alarm/immobiliser/central locking or thereabouts. I'm no expert so that is just an educated guess.


Have you ever tried to remove your AUX battery. Then install new 12V 90 Ah battery as is factory setting. Lead acid.

I too have a dual battery setup but they're linked by a DC charger. Lead Acid factory setup and an AUX battery with différent specs
Post #1049579 23rd Oct 2024 7:15pm
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