Ianh wrote:

Do not spray or put any oil on the clutch master cylinder pushrod.

You have two pivots, one that the push rod connects to and one lower. The lower one is the one you can fit a grease nipple to. So with the clutch pedal box lid removed as in picture above use 3 in 1 oil to lubricate the left and right sides of the upper pivot and the left and right side of the lower pivot. You can see the lines where pivots meet the bushes. Use a plastic drinking straw, position on pivot points that need lubricant then drip oil into top of straw and allow to flow. A few drips will do at each point.
Before doing so put rag in footwell to catch any dripping oil.

Depress clutch pedal a few times then oil again and depress pedal a few more times. All should be ok now and do once a year to keep all lubricated well.

Else fit the grease nipple and grease as others have said. Noting that it’s the lower pivot that tends to dry and bind, causing the issues you highlighted.

Puma_MOG wrote:

Good evening All,

I've finally acquired my Defender which is a 65 reg and only 12k miles. It's never towed and looking at its condition it's clearly been cherished.

I know the clutch pedal feel on these are not eco box light but are they normally really stiff? I have searched the topic and read a lot about boosters etc but nothing specifically about what should be normal. I found one comment stating that the 2.2 already has a lighter spring and if the clutch is stiff that it is a sign that it's likely very worn. Is this true?

I drove a similar mileage 90 last month and its pedal was feather light but the seller stating it was all stock and it only goes stiff with age and/or when it's really worn.

In short, should I be worried that my clutch is likely needing replacing?

Thank you,

P