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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2300

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Chainsaw Sharpening
Following the success of bear100's Pressure Washer thread I wondered if anybody could recommend an electric chainsaw chain sharpener?

With chains being so cheap I have (ashamedly) been buying new rather than sharpening which means I have quite a collection of blunt chains.

Is there a fast, idiot proof way of sharpening them? The machine needs to be good quality rather than Aldi middle aisle

I already have a collection of chainsaw files and various guides/gadgets but it's slow going.
I did look to have them sharpened locally but the cost per chain exceeds the cost of a new one. > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #1032639 24th Apr 2024 8:53am
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AJC



Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 1362

United Kingdom 
i am in same boat, i currently sharpen manually and would prefer a quicker method.
Post #1032661 24th Apr 2024 12:05pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3287

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Honestly it’s best if learn how to sharpen by handfile, once you get the knack it takes very little time. However if you don’t want to do that then buy an Oregon professional machine, don’t bother with any cheapo gadgets they’ll take longer and likely do a worse job than by hand.

https://www.buxtons.net/fuels-oils-mainten...gLUmvD_BwE

Alternatively find a different garden machinery shop, my local charges £8 per chain for sharpening. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #1032663 24th Apr 2024 12:33pm
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 317

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
I fairly recently, a couple of years back, started using a Husqvarna file guide. Less than £15 each.
It was recomended when on a lantra refresher course.

You will also need the correct size file.
They guides come in sizes to match the chain.
These people do a decent range of them:

https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/chainsaw-spa...uages.html

Takes about 10 mins or less to do (not much different to changing a chain).
Doesn’t need much concentration. Just keep aligned to the guide and it sorts the depth.
Post #1032672 24th Apr 2024 1:26pm
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shanecl



Member Since: 20 Mar 2013
Location: Louth
Posts: 506

Ireland 1989 Defender 90 V8 Petrol CSW Auto Firenze Red
I use these

https://www.eastbrothersmachinery.ie/produ...-sharpener

i'm no professional but told the electric sharpeners put too much heat into them
Post #1032673 24th Apr 2024 1:51pm
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Bowbearer



Member Since: 12 Aug 2022
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 173

United Kingdom 1985 Defender 110 200 Tdi SW Auto Baltic Blue
File and guide best, after a while you don't need the guide.

Don't forget to file down the depth gauges as well.

A neighbour brought me their saw round after a "professional" sharpen and said it wasn't cutting well.

They hadn't touched the depth gauges.

If you want to cheat you can get small files for your drill. make sure you get the right size. a bremmel is useful.

I used to use one when I had 20 plus saws to sharpen, not as good as a manual file but good enough.
Post #1032677 24th Apr 2024 2:08pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1052

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White


Gives you some idea's maybe. Project Farm is pretty intensive in their product reviews.
Post #1032679 24th Apr 2024 2:45pm
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RobKeay



Member Since: 19 Jul 2009
Location: Stafford
Posts: 1579

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Practise. I just use a normal oregan files. Set the saw up in a comfortable position. Just keep at it until the muscle memory kicks in. I can do a 16inxh bar in ten minutes or so. You’ll also need a flat file to sort the depth gauges.

Also Learning not to ruin the chain. If you take the edge off, sharpening it straight away. It will be quicker to sharpen.

Keep any timber of the floor. Soil is terrible for the chain.

The better you are with the saw the less you’ll need to sharpen.
Post #1032699 24th Apr 2024 5:49pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1316

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
I bought a drill powered sharpener thinking it would be quicker and easier than using a file and guide.

But after the first use I decided it was more hassle than it was worth Embarassed

As others have mentioned, once you've got the hang of hand filing the teeth and setting the depth it doesn't take long at all.

And very satisfying when you use the saw after sharpening it and find it cuts like a hot knife through butter.
Post #1032703 24th Apr 2024 6:23pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

United Kingdom 
Would a precision Dremel work? I’d have thought by hand would be safest though. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1032707 24th Apr 2024 6:40pm
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RobKeay



Member Since: 19 Jul 2009
Location: Stafford
Posts: 1579

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Like most things there’s too many gimmicks. It doesn’t take that long to sharpen by hand. Also pretty satisfying.

You often get better one side than the other. The saw then bananas off. Once you can do it you’ll save loads of money.
Post #1032712 24th Apr 2024 7:33pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10756

England 
Agree with the above comments, best to stick with the file, that's what i used when i sharpened my saws and once you know what you are doing, it takes no time at all Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #1032732 24th Apr 2024 8:49pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2300

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Zed wrote:


Alternatively find a different garden machinery shop, my local charges £8 per chain for sharpening.


Exactly. Whereas I've been buying 3x chains for £21.99! As a result I must have 25-30 of the things

Seems I will have to set aside an afternoon to sharpen them by hand. > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #1032762 25th Apr 2024 6:39am
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MarkBrown



Member Since: 03 Oct 2022
Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 462

Wales 1983 Defender 110 Other HT Auto Keswick Green
You already have the skill to know when it’s blunt, take a look at the teeth, learn what they look like when they’re sharp, then your good to go. I put the saw blade in the vice, then using the correct size round file take usually three swipes per tooth, turning the file as I go to use all of it. The depth doesn’t need to be done every time on the rakers. Having recently bought a battery saw I’ve found that they have to be super sharp to work, unlike the more powerful petrol saws which will still cut with a less than perfect chain.
Post #1032764 25th Apr 2024 7:03am
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Huttopia



Member Since: 23 Feb 2016
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1972

United Kingdom 
Re the electric sharpeners, it isn't really a mechanical process, you've got to look at each tooth and guide rather than a standard 3 strokes with the file. The more you do the easier it gets and you develop a feel for it. As others have said it is quite satisfying.
Post #1032765 25th Apr 2024 7:14am
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