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Defderico

Member Since: 11 Dec 2020
Location: New Caledonia
Posts: 16

Transfer box plug drain undo impossible

Hello,

I just put back the transfer box on my 110 TDCi (2011)
I did my oil change on the gear box, all good (2,3 litre)

I wanted to fill the transfer box
Impossible to undo the drain plug, even with an extension bar

Any advice please?

Do I have to weld a vry long extension bar to achieve this ?

Many thanks for your help

Éric

19th Nov 2023 11:24pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1982

For info the 2.4 gearbox should have 2.2 Litres on refill, not 2.3 Litres, I don’t expect an extra 100ml will make much difference as the same gearbox on the later 2.2 Puma’s is quoted as 2.4 Litres for re filling. But just wanted to make you aware.

The LT230 transfer box is filled with 2.3L.

You say you just fitted the transfer box, I’m assuming that it has sufficient oil still in it and when you are referring to the drain plug you mean the drain plug and not the fill plug.

If so then make sure the fill plug on the transfer box can be removed before you attempt to remove the drain plug.

As for the magnetic drain plug being very tight, it should only be torqued to 30Nm, but someone may have over torqued it in the past. Therefore you need to be careful that you don’t strip the threads in the transfer box when removing it. Perhaps taking it for a drive to get the box warm will help as the aluminium case should expand more than the steel plug. Then have a go with the half inch square dive on a breaker bar.
Hopefully this will release the plug without damaging the threads on the case, but you need to be prepared with a solution if the threads are damaged. This might involve re tapping the threads etc.

20th Nov 2023 2:05am

Defderico

Member Since: 11 Dec 2020
Location: New Caledonia
Posts: 16

Hello Ianh,

I made a mistake
The fill plug is the issue

I changed the clutch (to a LOF one) so the gear box and transfer box were drained

If I heat all round the fill plug of the transfer box? Is this possible ?

20th Nov 2023 2:57am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1982

Heat will help but you need to be carful not to overheat as it’s an alloy case. Obviously you need to ensure everything around,( especially above ) the area you are heating is protected / insulated from the flame. Plumbers solder mat is good for this. Have an extinguisher at hand just in case of an issue.

Aluminium alloy is a very good heat conductor so you can try heating with a plumbers propane torch, circling around the plug for 30 seconds, then trying the breaker bar, then heat a little more if it does not break loose.
If it’s still not moving , with something like a 700mm breaker bar then my last resort would be heat followed by a high torque impact wrench, with short bursts on the trigger to see if that will break the plug loose, however that does risk stripping the thread if you go too hard.

20th Nov 2023 11:22am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8006

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

I wouldn't use heat on that casing or impact gun with high potential to thread damage.

Use a long extension bar. May have to lift vehicle. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

20th Nov 2023 5:03pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1982

JST - I agree that you have to be careful with heat on the alloy casing, I was thinking of just getting it to the same temperature as it would get to after a long run , to potentially soften any threadlock that has been used and provide a little expansion prior to hanging on the breaker bar / breaker bar with an extension.

20th Nov 2023 6:16pm

v8bob

Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 315

If you do use heat, you can additionally chill the drain plug with some brake cleaner or something similar. Maybe put a short tube around it, something like a roll of tape to limit the chilling going onto the case.

21st Nov 2023 5:23pm

pistonfields

Member Since: 29 Mar 2022
Location: Zurich
Posts: 72

Regarding the use of heat: if it has been done properly then thread sealant like Loctite 577 has been used. This can sometimes be rather hard to break that loose. Those thread sealants will decay at 250°C. That's no problem for the alloy, as long as you use a controlled heat source like a heat gun with temperature setting. That way you won't do any damage.
If you use a simple propane torch just heat the bolt for a short amount of time, and only the bolt. That should do the trick. The alloy is quite thick and it'll take some time for it to get too hot. Just avoid any localized heat on the alloy itself and concentrate the flame on the torch. It won't take long.

22nd Nov 2023 9:02am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3410

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

I would probably just fill 2.3liters of oil from some other location, and unless there is a leak that requires constant top ups, it would be fine for many years. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

22nd Nov 2023 9:56am

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