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InternationalDBA

Member Since: 18 Feb 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 21

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Chassis Swap

Hello,

I am replacing the chassis on a LWB 2008 Puma.
I have the old and new chassis side by side and am moving the suspension from one to the other.
I notice that the new chassis has far fewer holes than the old one.
For example, the plastic breather tube from the rear axle is clipped to one arm of the V frame with cable ties but the final fixing is to a clip which goes into a hole in the chassis.
There is no corresponding hole on the new chassis.
I can get round this by adding an extra cable tie.
However, on the old chassis, the brake pipe running to the rear axle goes along the top of the right hand chassis leg and is attached by 5 or 6 clips which also go into holes in the chassis.
There are no corresponding holes on the new chassis.
What am I expected to do about this?
Attaching a brake pipe with cable ties is not going to look good to an MOT tester.

13th Oct 2023 8:00am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3422

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Perhaps it is a good idea to state the supplier of the new chassis.
Or if it is a galvanized chassis, could the holes be there, but blocked by excess zinc? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

13th Oct 2023 8:06am

InternationalDBA

Member Since: 18 Feb 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 21

It is a Richards chassis.
I chose it because it was featured in a book I am using to help me.
Yes, the chassis is galvanised.
I have spent quite a long time painting it black and can confirm that the holes are definitely not there.

13th Oct 2023 8:09am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

Drill the required holes, you really don't have a choice.

Incidentally the factory routing of that brake line along the top of the chassis rail makes it a major pain if you ever need to replace the brake pipe (ask me how I know)! If I was in your situation I would look at the possibility of rerouting it along the inside face of the chassis rail instead.

13th Oct 2023 9:41am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3422

Drilling will not compromise the rust protection as the ratio of the surface area of the anode (the zinc) to the cathode (the exposed steel in the drilled holes) is massive. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

13th Oct 2023 10:06am

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2656

On non-OEM chassis like Richards you will have to drill the holes yourself.

Even on the OEM Marsland (GKN) ones you usually have to drill out the holes as they end up a few mm smaller with the galv and the clips don’t fit. A dab of paint/wax in the holes will serve to discourage any corrosion.

13th Oct 2023 5:08pm

InternationalDBA

Member Since: 18 Feb 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 21

Thank you for the replies.
By coincidence I went to my MOT station last Friday with my son and his Fiat 500.
The garage is well into Defenders and also said that I may have to drill some holes myself.

16th Oct 2023 9:35pm

geobloke

Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

Yup drilling out holes is something you will have to do. Get yourself a nice new set of HSS drill bits a metal stepper drill bit is useful too.

Once drilled you can spray the bare metal with cold galv paint or slather in a grease like Lanoguards motogrease to prevent corrosion.

17th Oct 2023 8:21am

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