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JackLongley

Member Since: 05 Dec 2022
Location: Penarth, Wales
Posts: 7

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green

'07 Puma Overheating

Hi all,

Got a bit of an overheating issue. ‘07 Puma, coming back from a trip a couple of weeks ago (roof tent and loaded with camping gear - so not towing or massively loaded down), cruising 70-75 (2500rpm) on the motorway when completely lost power for a few seconds, happened three times, let off the accelerator and power came back after a few seconds, outside temp was well over 30c+ that day - first time driving the Defender since we’ve owned it in those temps, perhaps why we’ve never noticed before. Didn’t have an OBD reader plugged in so had no idea what the coolant or intake temp was. Temp gauge on the dash stayed solidly halfway on the gauge, until it lost power at which point it jumped to about 2/3 up. Came back down almost immediately - but as far as I’ve learnt from reading through a load of posts since, these gauges are pretty much useless. Rest of the drive was a paranoid and stressful one to say the least.

Got home, fearing the worst, did three RELD tests to test for the head gasket - all came back fine, so ruling that out for the time being. Cleaned the various sensors with contact cleaner, double checked the header tank - fine, still perfectly on the cold level line, and has been ever since we’ve owned it (getting on for 11 months). Also was about to hit 5000 miles since it’s last service, so did the basic service too (Oil, Filter, Air Filter, Fuel Filter…).

This weekend had to go on a trip where we needed to use the defender, about a three hour drive down to the New Forest (again, loaded with camping gear, bikes and roof tent). Plugged in the OBD reader for the journey (just a basic Amazon special that connects via bluetooth to the phone - nothing fancy, but does the job - will be investing in an UltraGauge soon), had my girlfriend keeping an eye on the coolant temp. Intake temp was around 26c for much of the journey, give or take. Cruising at 70 in 6th, we were seeing temps of mid-high 90’s (95+) peaking at 108c (way higher than I wanted to see!). Did a few ‘tests’ along the journey; dropped a gear to 5th, temp would drop down to low 90’s, even getting into the 80s at points, before then climbing back up. On a clear stretch of road, I lifted off, speed came down to 50, and put in a hard acceleration back up to 70 in 6th just trying to put the engine under some stress to see how it acted, temp would again drop before then picking up again. Then spent half an hour of so in lane one amongst the HGVs and seeing what would happen there, with less load on the engine. Temps were around mid 90s - again higher than I would expect to see. Once we arrived at our destination, I let it idle for a good 10 mins, temps didn’t really get down below 86/87c. So, definitely got something wrong with the cooling, and this is where my question comes in…

My thinking is to change out the thermostat for the one that opens at a lower temp (88c - PEL500110), prior to this go through the process of using a coolant flush, then take out the rad and flush that independently too, put in the new thermostat and fresh coolant (any recommendations for both a good cooling system flush and also a coolant?), and see if that helps at all. Does this all sound like sound thinking? Is it worth upgrading the rad whilst I’m in there? I don’t know how old it is, or if it has ever been changed in its lifetime - looking at it, my guess is it could actually be the original.

My other thought goes to the water pump, as the temp drops with higher revs. More revs = water pump also rev’ing higher, so more coolant is being pumped around, so does this imply that the pump isn’t performing as it should at normal rev ranges (I.e. cruising in 6th)? What would be the symptoms of a water pump that is on its way out? Anything else you’d recommending doing/checking?

Again, huge thank you in advance! Defender ownership, what a rollercoaster, but still absolutely love it. 2007, 110 Puma 2.4, Tonga Green, "Leonard"

1st Oct 2023 11:41am

andy63

Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 512

First thing I'd be wanting to know.. Is The thermostat opening.. Check the state of the bottom hoses next time it seems to overheat.. If they are still relatively cool then you have no radiator cooling..
On reasonably long journies recently my coolant temp were up to around 98 degrees but I can't remember it exceeding that.. On the couple of occosion I pulled in for a break my bottom hoses were relatively cool.. So certainly hadn't been in use a lot..
My Stat is supposed to start to open at 82deg and be fully open at 96.. But the Stat bulb will not be in the direct flow of coolant from the engine, but in the leg of the housing fed from the bottom radiator hose I think.. So it will take longer to open than the coolant temp suggests..
My thoughts anyway.. 👍

1st Oct 2023 12:19pm

JackLongley

Member Since: 05 Dec 2022
Location: Penarth, Wales
Posts: 7

Thanks for the suggestion! Got the three hour drive back this evening, so I'll check. 2007, 110 Puma 2.4, Tonga Green, "Leonard"

1st Oct 2023 12:24pm

MK

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2414

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White

Being yours a 2007 you could also remove the small thermostat on the oil cooler. As for a new coolant just pick one with the right specs (Ford WSS-M97B44-D) Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later

1st Oct 2023 2:52pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997

The coolant LR rebadge and sell as LR coolant is texaco delo xlc . It’s a very good coolant and you can find it online.

1st Oct 2023 3:51pm

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