 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Coolant, rad & thermostat change…Now runs even hotter! |
 
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78   
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Haven’t tested the thermostat as it’s new but my understanding is if it’s stuck open I wouldn’t get heat in the cabin but wouldn’t be suffering from over heating as much…if it’s stuck closed I would be getting heat from cabin but the engine would over heat…i maybe wrong here so happy to be educated! In terms of the CHT sensor, I did have problems with this which caused overheating but I changed it 6 months ago and not had a problem until now, now being when i started messing around with the coolant system as wanted to change it for fresh! |
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22nd Aug 2023 10:52pm |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
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What’s the best way to clean the whole circuit?
I understand how the heat diverter works but should it not be full of coolant the whole time, not have air running through it as I found last night with a torch? The reason I’m back to air is technically when I change a part the coolant gets drained everytime so the bleeding process starts from scratch everytime I change something? Also judging from the fact my bottom rad hose stays cool at current I would assume it’s stuck closed if anything? Thanks again for your input, I will take any advice right now! |
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23rd Aug 2023 4:08pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2429  
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There are all kind of branded flushing products but I doubt the cooling circuit is that badly dirty or rusty.
The whole circuit must be full of coolant at all times. With the stat removed, the fluid should run more or less freely if you apply enough pressure (with the garden hose). You can try with the diverted valve on and off. Afterwards you can flush the circuit with distilled water. Have you checked the bleeding procedure given in the workshop manual? Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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23rd Aug 2023 4:42pm |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
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Took a break for a while to gather thoughts and back to it.
I have a question re the thermostat….I’ve removed and put in boiling water. Should I be able to blow through the bottom of the housing once heated. As when I’ve just heated and left for a while I can’t blow any air through the bottom?? Does this mean it’s stuck closed?? Also any tips on how to break the housing apart to remove thermostat and rebuilding it to run as empty vessel? Thanks |
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2nd Sep 2023 5:53pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 542
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when the engine is warming up the water from the engine block will enter the thermostat housing from the top connection as its mounted, and out to the pump intake through the side branch..
with the water hot and the thermostat operating it will allow flow through the bottom connection...ie hose from the radiator and then back to the pump inlet through the side branch... that would be my take on the thermostat housing...I haven't opened it up so can't help there , but if no one has replied by tomorrow, ill check mine out...my system is currently drained so its no bother.. edit.. it could be by the time you blow through the housing the thermostat had shut , which I suspect it would do fairly quickly once removed from the hot water |
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2nd Sep 2023 6:18pm |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
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I dug a thermometer out and boiled to 85 (stat is a 82 one) and when removed and carefully blowing on it is fully open through all outlets so the thermostat is working.
I’ve just powerflushed and in the process of refilling so fingers crossed. Just to note after flush and getting to temp I opened the coolant drain under car drain and refill. The small hose that you disconnect to drain which is connected to the bottom rad hose come through cold until the coolant from top of rad filtered through and it then came through hot. It’s like the coolant still isn’t flowing through the rad/system properley when hot! I disconnected the rad and blasted hose through it and it comes through fine so don’t know what it could be. I also still don’t get heat in the cabin unless i open the bleed screw and keep a flow of coolant coming into the system, when I do this the cabin gets really hot like normal! As soon as I close the bleed screw and stop adding coolant the cabin goes cold again. |
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2nd Sep 2023 7:09pm |
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| DAZ110 Member Since: 06 Dec 2007 Location: East Sussex Posts: 2045 
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Another road test to see what happens?
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3rd Sep 2023 9:51am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2429
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when you had the radiator out, did you plug the garden hose to the other engine hoses? Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Sep 2023 1:48pm |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
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Yes had the garden hose on it.
It’s a new rad so wasn’t expecting it to be blocked but when I put the hose on it, it flowed through fine, didn’t burst through and had some blow back of water but still flowed through, which i assumed was normal due to the smaller diameter tubes on a rad. |
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3rd Sep 2023 4:15pm |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
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My concern is the coolant isn’t being pumped around the system.
The bottom rad hose is still cold after taking over temp (82 degrees) and the thermostat has been tested and is working. Also when bleeding at the bleed screw and with the coolant overfilled I can see the heat diverter valve is full, when I close the bleed valve it empties inside the plastic fitting so I don’t get any hot coolant through the heater matrix. I have done an RLED test and it’s come back negative as starting to fear HG but don’t know what to do now! |
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3rd Sep 2023 4:21pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2429
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At some point you said the water pump was ok. Did you fit a new one? Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Sep 2023 10:21pm |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
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Yes I fitted a new water pump but hasn’t made a difference.
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3rd Sep 2023 10:25pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2429
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Not sure if it was mentioned before, but did you plug the garden hose to all engine hoses. The purpose is to narrow down any possible blockage. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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3rd Sep 2023 10:30pm |
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| Yesjus Member Since: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Surrey Posts: 78
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So an update.
I purchased a coolant flush gun to flush properly and blasted all pipes I could see on coolant. Including the radiator and heat matrix. All blasted through fine. I connected all back up filled the coolant and took for a drive. I stayed on city roads and I finally got some heat in the cabin! Nice and hot and the temp on UG was remaining at 82-83 degrees. After 5 to 10 mins I took a on a dual carriage way, stayed out of 6th but as soon as I was cruising the temp rose to 90+ and i lost all heat in cabin?? When I returned to smaller roads the temp stayed high (until i returned to idle) and haven’t got heat in the cabin again 😩 Any help on what this would point too? |
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11th Sep 2023 10:05pm |
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