 | Home > Td5 > 90 td5 Rear Differential Recommendations |
 
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| Moneypit Member Since: 27 Feb 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 271  
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Nigel at Xcess4x4, built me a 4pin that's still going strong after years of abuse, Pretty sure he's a forum member
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4th Jun 2023 5:46pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5663 
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Nigel’s work is brilliant and he may be able to sort your diff cheaply and easily at this early stage 👍🏻👍🏻
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4th Jun 2023 6:19pm |
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| Reubs1215 Member Since: 09 Aug 2022 Location: Inverness Posts: 15 
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Cheers, I’ll give him a call in the morning! 2001 Defender 90 Td5 County Station Wagon
Instagram: @jme252 |
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4th Jun 2023 6:43pm |
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| LandymanStefan Member Since: 30 Aug 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 881  
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bUy thAt LoCKeR
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4th Jun 2023 9:20pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3639 
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whomever builds you diff, I can recommend an ASHCROFT ATB centre for road and light off road use, especially if your def has traction control. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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5th Jun 2023 5:35am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17338 
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The fact that the seal is leaking is no indication of any particular problem with the diff, and this should not on its own indicate the need for anything more major than replacing the seal and possibly the flange the seal runs on. A clunk on changing gear can be caused by many things and a worn diff is not normally top of the list of suspects (it's on the list certainly, but not top). Unless you like spending money, I suggest making sure that there really is a diff fault before buying a new one. Even if the diff is the source of the driveline backlash (and there are plenty of other possible sources) it is likely that the diff can be adjusted or be fitted with new bearings (both quick and easy jobs) at a cost far less than a replacement diff. You haven't state the mileage of your vehicle, but unless worked really hard 90s don't tend to wear out diffs quickly and I would expect even the standard (fairly inadequate) diff to be good for 150k+ miles. If you do need to replace it, there are many options almost all of which are better than the original. An Ashcroft ATB is far stronger than original diff and offers significant performance advantages, or anything with four differential gears rather than the original two will be much stronger. For ultimate traction you could opt for a full locker. Without knowing how you use the vehicle it is virtually impossible to recommend the most suitable and cost-effective option. If it is predominantly "normal" road-oriented use with a little gentle off-road now-and-again, buying a replacement bog-standard two-gear second-hand diff privately (prices start at around £50) and servicing it before fitting is probably the most cost effective approach. |
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5th Jun 2023 7:25am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6090 
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The culprit on several of my defenders over the years that causes a clunk, has been the balljoint on the A frame fulcrum. Even just a bit of wear seems to get amplified throughout the suspension.
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5th Jun 2023 8:06am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1034  
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Also quick and simple (if not already done so) is the check the u joint bolts are tight up the handbrake drum, I had 2 cars (Disco and Def) that were clonky where they had worked loose (or possibly were not tightened before I received the cars).
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5th Jun 2023 9:24am |
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| Reubs1215 Member Since: 09 Aug 2022 Location: Inverness Posts: 15
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Thanks for the in-depth reply! I'm almost certain it's the diff rather than anything else as I've gone through the prop ujs, flanges, a-frame joints, wheel bearings and just about anything else I could move, twist or check with a pry bar. The only thing that clunked was turning the rear prop where there was 20-30 degrees of play followed by a big clunk. The final check before thinking the backlash has to be from inside the diff and most likely the crown & pinion was taking the 1/2shafts out to see the splines are perfect and there's no visible fatigue / cracking on the flanges either. As a bit more background which may cast some light. Car's 2001 90 csw (pre-tech lift, so no TC, central locking etc), I'm the 3rd owner, now on 109k, 1st owner put 86k miles on it on a Northern Irish farm in 7 years (don't know anymore than that). The 2nd owner may have only driven the car 2.7k miles in 10 years, but all of them were the 2mile round trip to a Cornish beach to launch his fishing boat. So a pretty brutal combination of bumper deep in salt water, towing through sand, a particularly long, steep, twisting slipway and never rinsing it off, just abandoning it under a tree. The entire MOT history's rust related; I've now got it on a glav chassis and bulkhead, replaced all the hard lines, intercooler, rad, almost everything rubber below the hand brake level, shocks, a-frame, steering links, and entire brake system except the master cylinder lol! I use the vehicle for a real mix, off-roading, commuting, bit of towing and work up in the highlands. So highways, byways, forestry tracks, deep snow, mud, deep ruts, rocky tracks and a bit of sand. I wouldn't say I thrash it but it is used daily, and although it's predominately on road when it is used off road it's very remote (for the UK) and hard going. So I think maybe the salt water and previous user case has taken it's toll and allowed the pinion height / gear pattern to shift. I'm still hoping that a rebuild / re-shim will cure it, and I'm not sure I need anything much beefier than standard right now, just want it rebuilt well and back to being dependable! Thanks 2001 Defender 90 Td5 County Station Wagon Instagram: @jme252 |
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5th Jun 2023 10:09am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17338
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Is there any radial play on the flange? If there is, then the pinion bearings are worn (or the flange nut/bolt is loose) and the pinion may need reshimming to set pinion height and preload, although it should be noted that bearing tolerances are extremely tight so it is most likely that new bearing and the original shims will be fine.
If there is no radial play, then it is possible that all that is needed is to adjust the pinion engagement in the crownwheel by adjusting the differential carrier bearing cage nuts. You may be able to get a perfectly satisfactory diff that will last for years more simply by adjusting what you have. On the other hand, if it has been run with low or no oil, or with water and grit in the oil from the breather, it may be beyond salvation. You really will have to drop the diff out and have a look. It only takes half-an-hour or so to drop the rear diff out, then you will at least know the score. |
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5th Jun 2023 11:15am |
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| Reubs1215 Member Since: 09 Aug 2022 Location: Inverness Posts: 15
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Yh I think those’ll be my next moves, just trying to tick off all the easy options and whether I’ve missed anything 😂
I’ve swapped the diff oil out twice since getting it, can’t remember really what it looked like originally. But breathers are all clear, last oil change looked fine (no bits or water) and checked it through the fill plug yesterday and seemed the right level and what was on my pinky & splines looked as clean as when I put it in 4k ago. No radial play in the 1/2 shafts from what I could tell - seems limited damage so far! Unfortunately having limped it 700miles to London I’m not in a position to strip and rebuild the diff fully myself. I don’t have the space or the tools (also never done it before). As suggested - ideal I’d like to just send my diff and get my unit back in a state I can just fit. Thanks again for all the suggestions & knowledge! 2001 Defender 90 Td5 County Station Wagon Instagram: @jme252 |
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5th Jun 2023 11:58am |
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| Reubs1215 Member Since: 09 Aug 2022 Location: Inverness Posts: 15
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Feels like massive overkill atm - I prefer to run out of traction rather than talent 🥴 2001 Defender 90 Td5 County Station Wagon Instagram: @jme252 |
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5th Jun 2023 12:03pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17338
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Let us hope that LandymanStefan has more control of his diff lock than he does of his caps lock!
No offence intended of course.  |
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5th Jun 2023 12:37pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3409  
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If that is the case, at least he will not be one posting for help that his diff lock lever is seized
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternatin...lowercase. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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5th Jun 2023 1:00pm |
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