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bcarlin



Member Since: 24 Sep 2011
Location: lanarkshire
Posts: 290

Scotland 
no heat from heater
hi
i am getting luke warm heat from the vents when the dial is turned right round to hot.
the engine temp is bang on the middle and when you turn the dials they all feel like they should.
is there anytning i can or do i need to replace anything.
thanks
Post #973535 5th Dec 2022 9:43pm
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Jerry



Member Since: 13 Nov 2015
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 196

2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 Adventure Phoenix Orange
I am no expert but just check your coolant and oil use - I had a head gasket go on a Volvo XC70 and the failed heater was the first symptom along with excessive oil consumption. My temperature gauge never moved off centre …until the engine was destroyed!
Post #973540 5th Dec 2022 10:14pm
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neon1991



Member Since: 26 Mar 2018
Location: Colchester
Posts: 75

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Firenze Red
coolant is probably low.
Check for leaks if it's a sudden drop (around the cap is a good one) Mine used to burp it's coolant out the cap when the head gasket went
Post #973592 6th Dec 2022 11:11am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17359

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
This is a normal symptom in a TDCi if the coolant is a bit on the low side, usually preceded by wildly fluctuating temperatures from the heater, then becoming constant tepid.

The first step is to check the level and top up if necessary. If it is low, monitor the level to see how quickly you're losing coolant, and if necessary investigate further.
Post #973593 6th Dec 2022 11:22am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1995

United Kingdom 
When investigating if you are low on coolant, in addition to the cap, which is known to fail ( do a search on here) have a look at the heater valve which does fail and slowly drip , again a search on here will provide details.
Also with a rag around the bleed screw to catch fluid loosen it to expel any air in the system.
Post #973610 6th Dec 2022 1:14pm
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Rosco



Member Since: 03 Dec 2010
Location: Burntwood
Posts: 1833

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
This has reminded me my heater output has reduced recently, and I even noticed whafts of heat when going round roundabouts.

Sure enough header tank pretty much empty Rolling Eyes 2007 - Stornoway Grey 90 XS SW - Gone
2002 - Black Discovery II - Gone
2014 - Montalcino Red 110 XS SW
Post #973632 6th Dec 2022 3:17pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8018

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Coolant level low as above.

If it comes in blasts of cold then red hot then cold then it'd prob head gasket time. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #973645 6th Dec 2022 4:14pm
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bcarlin



Member Since: 24 Sep 2011
Location: lanarkshire
Posts: 290

Scotland 
Update
Coolant level is fine with no loss of water, when traveling on the motorway the heat gets better but only really if you have it on 1.
When you turn the dial to cold it does go cold and same with hot.
I opened the bleed screw and no air appeared to be coming out.
Post #973650 6th Dec 2022 4:28pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
So coolant level is fine. Temp needle is where it is meant to be.

Do you have a OBD reader? or a laser thermometer you can get your hands on? You need to test the actual temperature of the coolant and engine. Eliminate that as the problem.

Is there a flap that is not adjusted properly? letting too much cold air in? Could be the cable has popped off at the heater or knob end. Your heater control valve is cable operated as well.
Post #973651 6th Dec 2022 4:37pm
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bcarlin



Member Since: 24 Sep 2011
Location: lanarkshire
Posts: 290

Scotland 
Hi
I don’t have a reader or thermostat.
How many cables control the hot/cold side of the heater ?
I thought it was only the one on the valve that controlled the hot/cold ?
Post #973670 6th Dec 2022 6:29pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Well they cost around a tenner and you will absolutely know whether it is your engine or something else that is faulty. You will also be able to see whether the pipes leading to the heater matrix are as hot as elsewhere or if your radiator is sapping all the heat.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/unknows-Thermomet...1&th=1

Good bit of kit to have when you need it.

As for the cables. I am unfamiliar with the Puma heating system, however, there is a cable that goes to the heater control valve (plastic on bulkhead) and at least 1 if not two that go to the heater box itself. It might be that one or more of these are not fully opening or closing what they are meant to. This is a common thing on earlier Defenders, every now and again you have to re-adjust the wire within the lever fixing on the heater box to make sure the flap inside is actually closing properly.

Have a poke around under the bonnet and make sure everything is working as it should be.
Post #973676 6th Dec 2022 7:26pm
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bcarlin



Member Since: 24 Sep 2011
Location: lanarkshire
Posts: 290

Scotland 
What temp should the water be ?
And should I check at the expansion tank
Post #973677 6th Dec 2022 7:30pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Thermostat begins opening at 88degC. You may get a bit less if measuring the temp of a rubber hose, but you will be able to tell if it is in the 80s or only at 50...
Post #973682 6th Dec 2022 7:39pm
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bcarlin



Member Since: 24 Sep 2011
Location: lanarkshire
Posts: 290

Scotland 
If it’s low would that suggest the stat isn’t opening or what else could it be ?
Post #973686 6th Dec 2022 7:49pm
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
If the coolant is struggling to get to temperature then it would suggest that your thermostat is opening early or stuck open. To test, get your engine to operating temps and point your thermometer at the radiator and then the hoses and engine block, if they are close to be the same then it is more likely that the thermostat is stuck open. With the thermostat closed there should be a temperature difference between it and the rest of the coolant system.
Post #973687 6th Dec 2022 7:53pm
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