 | Home > Technical > UJs cup bearings seized ? |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387   
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I would unbolt the prop as a matter of urgency and check if what you suspect is really happening by fully articulating the joints. If the cup is loose in the eye it is, I am afraid, quite likely that you will need a new propshaft since the eye is softer than the cup and it is likely therefore that the eye, rather than the cup has worn, so a new UJ will be loose in the eye.
If you're lucky you might get away with it if it has only very recently started happening. |
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30th Aug 2022 7:06am |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 913
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I had one fail with no warning vibrations. Given the cost of a new prop I would get one ordered now, remove and check the existing one and if it is repairable then keep it for a spare. From memory a whole prop only costs a few pounds more that a couple of UJs.
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30th Aug 2022 8:35am |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434  
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or you can spend a thousand and go the GL route
 Click image to enlarge Roaming around 🇳🇴🇨🇭 |
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30th Aug 2022 9:03am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5818  
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Just replaced my rearmost UJ this morning. Failed. Noted that in the holder facing the diff the UJ was completely seized. Took an age to get our with clamps and hammers etc. Got there in the end, cleaned with wire wool and lube and new one went in with effort. Of the prop housing the cups slid in very easily. Almost too easily. But still no wobble. Just right, but based on what’s been said above I’ll keep an eye on it. Always felt a GL upgrade was worthwhile (including the various steering upgrades) allied to upgraded diffs, just to inch towards that ever unachievable goal of entirely removing slack for anything longer than a week after tightening everything up or replacing any of the 94 moving parts found in the 110’s drive train. Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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30th Aug 2022 9:25am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5818
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If that's a recent purchase, be good to see some photos on one of the various threads…  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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30th Aug 2022 9:26am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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Replace with a new prop, or if you fancy a challenge replace the UJ.
I’d do one or the other asap. Changing the UJ’s can be straight forward, it can also be a pain in the backside. Depends as Blackwolf said if you can get away with it but there little different E between a prop and UJ’s and the new prop route is easier and quicker. Usually this is caused by lack of lube, don’t expect servicing to include doing it it’s often left and UJ’s get dry. Fill with water in the winter etc etc $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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30th Aug 2022 10:48am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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A quick google suggests that a blue box propshaft for a Puma 110 is around £200, and a genuine one up to £800. That will buy quite a lot of very good quality UJs! I guess if you are paying someone to do the job however the labour cost will soon redress the balance, since changing the UJ will add perhaps half an hour to the remove/refit part of the job. |
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30th Aug 2022 2:08pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184 
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 Sound advice from all of you, appreciated
I have done all maintenance myself during the past 4 years I've owned this one, including greasing the propshafts twice a year, so a bit disappointed to find this. Anyway I guess the high summer temperatures combined with motorway speed on long distance trips has not helped this particular UJ at the back of the transfer box, which I suspect has overheated. A new GKN rear propshaft for a 110 Puma (P/N LR010463) is about £450 while a new GKN UJ for the same propshaft (P/N RTC3458) is about £20. So the plan is to unbolt and drop the prop this weekend, try and change the UJ, and see how it goes. If this does not work, well, i will do as we all usually do : take advantage of every failing bit on the Landy to upgrade for better (have already started lurking on Gwyn Lewis website  )
/Mathias |
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30th Aug 2022 2:30pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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GKN UJ’s went in mine, been good since.
The biggest pain is getting the old ones out, typically because of the paint. Soaking it all in WD40 for days is ideal. I preferred the sockets and vice approach rather than hammering the life out of it but that’s just me. Some tippex and zip ties maybe useful too for putting it back exactly as you found it. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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30th Aug 2022 4:35pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387
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It's only a few gentle taps with a copper hammer, hardly "Forged in Fire"! 
I find that trying to hold the propshaft together with the sockets/mandrels in all the right places while either tightening the vice or pumping the handle of the press is generally a PITA. Once you've mastered the "gentle tap" method you'll only go back to the old ways in the case of an unusually stubborn joint. |
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30th Aug 2022 5:10pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20376
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I expect if I went to do the same job again it would be easier now but the paint around the original circlips was a real pain.
Especially the 2 - 4mm between the circlip and the outer where the bearing cup needs to be extracted through. Funniest thing is, I did do a bit of hammering and with some that did do the job but on others they wouldn’t shift at all. More of the story, grease your nipples. UJ’s… $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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30th Aug 2022 5:23pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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Sometimes getting large parts like a propshaft for a 110 to the rest of Europe can become quite expensive. I would be tempted to just replace the UJ and fit the new one with retaining compound, such as one from the loctite 600 series. If course, only if the rest of the shaft is still in good condition. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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30th Aug 2022 7:09pm |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5818
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As mentioned above, two cups were completely seized in place. So I used a grinder to cut the UJ through its narrowest point, essentially through the plastic collar, and then used a combination of WD40, heat, vice (with socket head acting as a press) and a hammer/socket/bish bash bosh combo. Took about half an hour to get them out. Total time for a single UJ, (dropping the shaft, removing UJ, cleaning and greasing shaft head, cleaning and greasing bolts, housing to rear diff etc), 3hrs. Spent an extra hour inspecting and cleaning/greasing all the other UJs and their respective moving parts and bolts. Easy job and nowhere near the cost of a new prop shaft.
Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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31st Aug 2022 6:27am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184
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Update:I have ordered 2x GKN UJ’s, I should only need one but they are so cheap I thought I’d better have a spare at hand for future, unfortunately I don’t think they will be delivered in time for me to tackle this job on the weekend.
Anyway, I don’t expect the old one will be too much of a fight to take out. It really seems like the needles within the cup are seized so that it is the cup itself which turns inside the eye. I am worried though, as some have suggested here, that the new UJ cups might be loose in the eye… which will call for a new propshaft. /Mat |
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31st Aug 2022 10:25am |
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