 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Acoustic mat vs carpet for back of station wagon? |
 
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 571   
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I'm in the middle of fitting Wright Off Road matting to the rear of my 110 SW. Originally it just had thin ribbed matting. So far I've just put in the easy bit, a flat section in the rear footwell and the load area. It's already made a significant difference to the noise level. It's quite easy to cut with a new blade in a Stanley knife.
Next up I'll make some templates out of thick paper for the rear wheel arches then cut out the rest of the matting to fit. This should really reduce the tyre roar. I've also removed the fold down 3rd row seats. Before I fit the matting I put grub screws with thread lock to save the holes. For the floor areas the matting is heavy enough to stay in place. For the wheel arches, I'm using Wurth spray contact adhesive. The matting is surprisingly flexible and bends nicely around the arches in my Puma. The matting does come with a release agent on it, this needs to be cleaned off before gluing. The biggest difference to engine noise was after fitting Dodo mat and barrier to the bonnet. More details here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic82261.html |
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18th Jul 2022 2:10pm |
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| jpboost Member Since: 13 Apr 2021 Location: Gatwick Posts: 377 
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I'd go for option 2.
I've put a lot of sound deadening into mine and it's made quite a big difference. I used Dodo mat products and I'd use them again. They seem better value than silentcoat/dynamat and in my experience give the same result (I've used both silentcoat and dynamat several times in different cars over the years). And it's all so easy to cut/shape I never really saw much point in the pre-cut kits. Over the load area in mine, I also put a layer of closed cell accoustic foam (Dodo super liner). This was very quick to do and really improved matters further. interesting to read Steveww's thread. I'd not thought of treating the heater box. Makes a lot of sense, I'll give that a go when i get a spare minute. |
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18th Jul 2022 2:35pm |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
Thanks very much both - some good feedback there.
Steve - I'm planning a similar job re: the screws to preserve the seat holes. I was planning on using wafer-head bolts rather than grub screws as I was bothered about them falling through, but the threadlock is a good idea:  Click image to enlarge |
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18th Jul 2022 3:13pm |
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| Avelingporter Member Since: 25 Jan 2016 Location: Southampton Posts: 406 
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Quite a lot of noise comes through the roof. Also worth dropping the roof lining and putting silent coat on there. I then backed this with acoustic foam. Both as a further noise barrier and a heat insulation. It was well worth.
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18th Jul 2022 3:27pm |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
thank you - its on the list.
My plan is: Phase 1: cab and rear load area Phase 2: roof and window sides Phase 3: doors Phase 4 bonnet. I'm a bit spooked by the removal of the head liner and whether I can get it back in! I think I'm going to stick to the option 2 above. Nice and cheap and I feel more comfortable sticking carpet than trying to get thick rubber to follow the station wagon wheel boxes. |
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18th Jul 2022 5:19pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3645 
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just done all of mine with Dynamat and where possible over covered in 6mm dodo superliner
I managed to get the roof down and back up all on my own without damaging anything other than a few trim clips that I replaced with a few that I had already purchased just in case. Just be careful not to create too much depth in the rear as the roof lining is a close fit to the roof especially around the alpine windows, no such problem in the front where I put two layers of 6 mm dodo results, I did it in stages 1/ front doors and rear door (notably heavier and less tinny slight reduction in in car noise) 2/ under bonnet pre cut kit dynamat only (notably heavier and less tinny slight reduction in in car noise) 3/ seat box, top sides bottom and front, floor and foot wells, and area behind seats where the bulkhead removal bar is (again reduction in noise) 4/ Rear floor and rear seat boxes dynamat only (another notable reduction) 5/ roof front and rear and side panels and rear panels (again a notable difference) 6/ heater box and ducting under bonnet I wish in some ways I had done it all at once to get the big hit reduction rather than doing it over a period of about 2 months. I can report however that all the various defender noises are reduced and noise levels are about 20mph different, ie its now as noisy at 70 as it used to be at 50, also the Sat Nav keeps telling me I am speeding as I don't realise how fast I am going. Another benefit is that the air con cools the car much more quickly and in the current heat it is definitely more comfortable. (down to the dodo thermal insulation properties) Total cost was about £500 but it was well worth it especially when on the motorway. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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18th Jul 2022 7:48pm |
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| Gasket Member Since: 30 May 2020 Location: Manchester Posts: 629 |
I had just been measuring up the car and costing it out and it was the foam that was killing my budget. thanks for the tip re: the Dodo superliner - that's just pulled it back into budget and its available in really nice large volumes too which is great.
Just need to debate whether I go for Dynamat Extreme in some places or whether to just use something like the Dodo Deadn or Silentcoat everywhere. In most cases I think anything would do, but when watching this video: where Audiofile incar are soundproofing a 90 I noticed a few things: 1) they used Dynamat extreme on the roof panel and on the plastic door cards 2) everywhere else they either used the silver Skinz Expert panels (on flat surfaces like the floor) or black Sknz pro on vertical panels (like doors and window surrounds). That seems to suggest that the Dynamat has something that lets them justify paying the extra to fit it in strategic places - maybe a better adhesive when sticking to the underside of the roof or onto the plastic of the door cards. I'm leaning towards copying them with a one bulk box of Dynamat extreme to use in the same places (roof and door cards) and to stick with something like Dodo Deadn or Silentcoat everywhere else. Then where I am using foam on top to just use the Dodo Superliner everywhere. that should keep the cost down where I don't need to splash out on anything special but still gives the reassurance that I'm using the proper stuff where it can cause an issue. |
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18th Jul 2022 8:19pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3645
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Yes I struggled to Justify the Dynamat extreme but it is incredibly easy to use (cut) and it is a job I only planned on doing once.
I used 2 boxes of Dynamat and 2 roles of the DoDo and had a bit of both left over, I deliberately avoided all seams and fixings just in case I ever need to strip the car down. Both products are extremely difficult to remove once stuck so getting it right first time is critical, I also put some of the back side of all trim panels except the roof with Dynamat which has made them more solid sounding. Where the DoDo isn't covered it looks ok but wouldn't wear well if scuffed, I will be covering the small number of areas where you can see it or Dynamat with carpet (below window trim and rear seat boxs mainly) it is a daunting job but very satisfying and you get to know how it all comes apart DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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19th Jul 2022 5:50am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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Having done mine and a few other cars, I offer the following advice:
The stick on panels (dyna, dodo, slient) are all the same  , pick the cheapest ones as its just bitumen based. (I've used all three, Dodo is the cheapest when I bought).
You don't need to cover the floor / roof with them. I only used three dodo panels for my roof (double cab) and it has the same effect as covering it. They don't block sound, they only reduce resonance. To reduce sound, you need an acoustic barrier (6mm+ closed cell foam), I did my whole roof with the dodo stuff and its been amazing, its 100% less of a tin can and the roof does more than the floor, also it stops the condensation. Covering the whole car in the thin panels will do nothing but waste your money. You probably only need 6-10 sticky panels to do a CSW, the rest should be acoustic barrier foam. You're also driving a Defender, there's no isolation between the chassis / sprung components and the body, the shocks going through it are never going to aid quiet driving. Last edited by kenzle8a on 19th Jul 2022 8:18am. Edited 1 time in total |
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19th Jul 2022 8:14am |
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| Avelingporter Member Since: 25 Jan 2016 Location: Southampton Posts: 406
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when using dynamat, silentcoat etc I found the easiest way to cut up the sheets was using a pair of tin snips, some know them as Gilbow's. Much easier than a stanley knife.
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19th Jul 2022 8:18am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074
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Big pair of Fiskars garden scissors are all you should need cut it, doing it with tin sips would drive me mad.
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19th Jul 2022 8:20am |
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| Magoyo Member Since: 04 Feb 2022 Location: Buenos Aires Posts: 47  
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Hi Gasket, everything you have described is correct, I have done the same and reduced about 15 db. But after silencing the loudest noises, the whistles begin to appear, and also one becomes maniacal. The last thing I did in my truck, which was something I read around here; I focused on the weather stripping of each door, passing a piece of paper with the door closed and also turning on a very strong light from the inside, to finish discovering the small spaces through which the wind enters. I think I already have a capsule!
good luck |
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20th Jul 2022 1:35pm |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 571
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I noticed the same. As I add soundproofing to various parts I've reduced the engine noise, transmission whine, tyre roar. Now I'm left with squeaks and rattles. It's a Defender, I can live with those.
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20th Jul 2022 1:59pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3645
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A surgical scalpel is brilliant for both Dynamat and DODO 6mm, gives a smooth clean cut. DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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20th Jul 2022 7:24pm |
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