DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - 300tdi won't start? Electrical switch issue?

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > In Car Electronics > 300tdi won't start? Electrical switch issue?

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

KiwiNCFC

Member Since: 14 Jul 2019
Location: East anglia
Posts: 46

300tdi won't start? Electrical switch issue?

Hey guys! I have a 97 300tdi and I recently became stuck in a car park because it wouldn't start. Up until then it's been fine starting always but when I came back from the shop I pressed the immobiliser button and then put the key in and all lights come up on the dash but when I turn the key nothing happens. Not even a click.

The battery was at 12.3v as I had a battery charger in the car so I just plugged that on to check the voltage.

I've had clicking from relays when turning the keys before ages ago and this was a faulty battery.

So it's been fine for over a year but this was strange. It just wouldn't start and I must have tried 40 times and ended up ringing the RAC. As you do, i thought id try one more time so I lifted the bonnet and checked glow plug wiring connections and tried again and it fired up first time!

I've lost a lot of confidence driving in it now as I could be easily stranded again. Since I got it home I turned off and started it up again about 20 times no problem! I know it could be anything which is what annoys me so I was thinking of replacing all relays and cleaning all the fuses (the 30a and above ones) and the bonnet switch just to rule out some things.

Sorry for the bit of a ramble but just wanted to put my thoughts down in case anyone had something similar to me.

Thanks in advance!!

7th May 2022 7:21am

BuckBlu110

Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 712

1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue

Have you tried looking at the wiring on the ignition barrel? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the some of the wires from the barrel had become brittle and one had mostly cracked off, so when the vehicle was parked in a particular angle or slope, it lost connection and I had the same symptoms. All the lights and not start.

7th May 2022 7:50am

Balvaig

Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 730

2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey

Used to have a Disco 1 from that era.
It had two switches under the bonnet. One at the front for the alarm on the bonnet and a fuel cut off switch at the back of the engine bay.
As it started after lifting the bonnet, might be worth checking the wiring and switches if they are present on the Defender

7th May 2022 8:49am

James130

Member Since: 14 Mar 2015
Location: UK
Posts: 4

When I had a similar sounding problem the issue was a corroded poor earth wire connection to the starter motor - a quick thing to check and fix, or rule out…good luck.

Cheers, James.

15th May 2022 7:05pm

300TDi CSW Phil

Member Since: 03 Apr 2016
Location: Bracknell
Posts: 750

1995 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Epsom Green

I had a similar issue which turned out to be the 12v+ to the fuel cut off solenoid on the pump.

The engine did turn on the starter though. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper.
Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home
M0XQS

15th May 2022 8:54pm

Will@LRW

Member Since: 04 May 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 179

1997 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White

I made a video which may help narrow things down:

LR Workshop
Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com

15th May 2022 9:06pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20371

Likely a loose ground, check battery clamps and main ground and those around gearbox and transfer box.
Due to vibration grounding point lugs and eyes can get loose, in fact I’ve had it happen twice in a row.
So recently I decided to use a small amount of LOW strength loctite and so far that has worked on smaller studs.
I think it’s Loctite 222, but it has a low strength beak off of something like 8NM.
So when you need to remove anything it won’t be really difficult but is just enough to make sure that the fixings don’t loosen.
Even when torqued to spec I found that one still became loose.

You can always use a heavy duty temporary ground too, if it improves it straight away then you will know right away it’s ground issues.
It could be live side as mentioned by others but again, loose connections is a common culprit due to vibration on Defenders of all ages. These connections can get corroded and dirty too, but often goes hand in hand with becoming loose. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

15th May 2022 9:11pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum