Home > In Car Electronics > 300tdi won't start? Electrical switch issue? |
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BuckBlu110 Member Since: 19 Apr 2014 Location: in the pub Posts: 712 |
Have you tried looking at the wiring on the ignition barrel? I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the some of the wires from the barrel had become brittle and one had mostly cracked off, so when the vehicle was parked in a particular angle or slope, it lost connection and I had the same symptoms. All the lights and not start.
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7th May 2022 7:50am |
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Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 730 |
Used to have a Disco 1 from that era.
It had two switches under the bonnet. One at the front for the alarm on the bonnet and a fuel cut off switch at the back of the engine bay. As it started after lifting the bonnet, might be worth checking the wiring and switches if they are present on the Defender |
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7th May 2022 8:49am |
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James130 Member Since: 14 Mar 2015 Location: UK Posts: 4 |
When I had a similar sounding problem the issue was a corroded poor earth wire connection to the starter motor - a quick thing to check and fix, or rule out…good luck.
Cheers, James. |
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15th May 2022 7:05pm |
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300TDi CSW Phil Member Since: 03 Apr 2016 Location: Bracknell Posts: 750 |
I had a similar issue which turned out to be the 12v+ to the fuel cut off solenoid on the pump.
The engine did turn on the starter though. 1995 300 Tdi Epsom Green - It's a keeper. Wide Track Sankey- In bits- Gone to a new home M0XQS |
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15th May 2022 8:54pm |
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Will@LRW Member Since: 04 May 2019 Location: UK Posts: 178 |
I made a video which may help narrow things down:
LR Workshop Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com |
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15th May 2022 9:06pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20355 |
Likely a loose ground, check battery clamps and main ground and those around gearbox and transfer box.
Due to vibration grounding point lugs and eyes can get loose, in fact I’ve had it happen twice in a row. So recently I decided to use a small amount of LOW strength loctite and so far that has worked on smaller studs. I think it’s Loctite 222, but it has a low strength beak off of something like 8NM. So when you need to remove anything it won’t be really difficult but is just enough to make sure that the fixings don’t loosen. Even when torqued to spec I found that one still became loose. You can always use a heavy duty temporary ground too, if it improves it straight away then you will know right away it’s ground issues. It could be live side as mentioned by others but again, loose connections is a common culprit due to vibration on Defenders of all ages. These connections can get corroded and dirty too, but often goes hand in hand with becoming loose. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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15th May 2022 9:11pm |
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