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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553   
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Yes I can see where the expense is building. As you point out, starts to become a restoration rather than a chassis swap.
I have just changed my rear axle case. I got an old one for £80 but changed the A frame ball joint, all the bearings and seals, calipers, discs, pads, brake hose, new brake pipes etc. Probably in the region of £450 with paint, brake fluid, etc. Thankfully the drive shafts, stub axles and hubs were OK. I used electrolysis to clean up the axle case, disc shields, A frame yolk(?), springs, and now I have what looks to be a fairly clean axle with new nuts and bolts used. I have recently rebuilt my front hubs, swivels and brakes. I have now purchased a 300tdi front axle case (already refurbished) and some hockey sticks to suit (hockey sticks also given the electrolysis treatment). I will swap over the axle case with the refurbished gear and again the front axle should be a good unit. All this as it will be a quicker swap if and when it does need a new chassis. |
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9th May 2022 1:28pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2640 
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It’s not rocket science and yes you do need space, but I would argue less space than dismantling the vehicle entirely. Not sure what being born into engineering has to do with it? I did it this way back in 2018 and it took me about two weeks:  Click image to enlarge And then did it all again last year the other way, which took much longer: Click image to enlarge |
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9th May 2022 3:13pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17362 
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The problem with the body-off-in-one approach is that the operation of lifting the assembled body is difficult for most people, whilst removing the body in pieces is generally much less of a lifting challenge. Apart from that one aspect, the body-in-one approach is easier, quicker, and will require fewer tools and less skill, since you will be dealing with a fraction of the number of seized fasteners you'll have to deal with in a piece-by-piece strip-down, you will end up overhauling and replacing far fewer components, and you will have very few of the enormously-time-consuming alignment problems that even the factory couldn't get right. I would suggest if you are simply re-chassising to extend the life of the vehicle, body-off-in-one is the way to go. If you are rebuilding the vehicle because you want a remanufactured vehicle built to your own standard that will last for ever, do it the "nut and bolt" route and be prepared to spend much more. I really cannot understand the "born into engineering" comment, it makes no sense to me, you will need at least as many and probably more tools and and at least as much and probably more know-how to dismantle the body rather than lift it in one (and if you don't have - or have access to - the tools and know-how, should you even be doing this)? I would suggest that the deciding factor (other than your motives for the rechassis) is whether you actually have a way to lift the complete assembled body from the frame. It is a large and relatively fragile mass, but you don't have to lift it very high to roll the chassis out from under it. If you are doing this job on a Disco2, of course, you don't have any choice, you have to lift the body. |
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9th May 2022 4:26pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2640
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Precisely.
I did it the body off method the first time as I was doing a lot of miles and just needed to swap the chassis quickly and keep the vehicle on the road. The second time I had another Land Rover to use and so was able to take the time to do it properly. Plus the body was so rotten by that point it would have probably broken in half if I had tried to lift it, but that’s a minor detail  |
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9th May 2022 4:35pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
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From another perspective, Cubfly has a valid point.
I have seen so many assemblies (not specifically Defender) being damaged further from wrong disassembly or wrong assembly. I guess the same could apply to a Defender. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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9th May 2022 5:23pm |
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| Dave T Member Since: 07 Jun 2013 Location: Glasgow Posts: 490 
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I rechassied mine back in 2012 and serialised it here, unfortunately the phots have gone.
https://slroc.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7224.0 At that time I was fairly new to Defenders and had never done any of these big jobs before. It gives you a list of what I replaced and total costs on page 4, but bear in mind, the marsland chassis was £1200 in those days! Also, I wasn’t looking for pristine paintwork or anything as it is jused off road and for trials, so you would need to add more to my costs. If you have never done anything like this before, it is possible on your driveway and with just minimal special tools, an engine hoist was about all I needed. It just takes a little longer, but you certainly get to know your car intimately and it makes future jobs so much easier…….go on, have a go. 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6 1994 Def 90 300tdi |
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10th May 2022 1:26pm |
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| Goldenballs Member Since: 22 Apr 2021 Location: Reading Posts: 60
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I’m not sure if all these comments scared me or excited me into doing a full rebuild…
MOT time in December will probably be the decision day… |
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8th Jun 2022 10:31am |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 316 
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I've just picked this up - have you seen these people?
https://www.terraintechparts.com/pages/def...eplacement I don't know where on the South Coast you are but this looks like a good deal, they quote a price for a Shielder Chassis but you could spec a Marsland and pay the extra. I'm a pretty competent mechanic but I don't have the facilities or appetite to do a chassis swap, I'd sooner pay someone else to do it even if I end up taking a couple of years to repay the cost for doing so. |
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8th Jun 2022 2:42pm |
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| Mean Green Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: South Ayrshire Posts: 280
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I am almost finished my re-chassis of a 1993 200tdi 90 - to be honest I have not kept a tally of the cost.... probably too scared to find out (or if Mrs found out!!) but I would think it will be around £6/7k. But I have done everything as I have found it - so new doors (3), re-built the tub, bushes, springs etc etc.
I got the Shielder Chassis from terraintech - the only issue I have found with it is that the Dixon Bates tow bar will not fit - the holes no longer line up with the chassis - I think it is the mounts on the bottom of the cross member are a little too long. My re-build started in April 2020 and was going to be my lock-down project - it is still not back on the road, but wont be long now! |
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8th Jun 2022 2:54pm |
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| shanecl Member Since: 20 Mar 2013 Location: Louth Posts: 496  
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Don't i'm 9 years and 42k so far  but i am OCD |
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9th Jun 2022 9:51am |
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