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jpboost



Member Since: 13 Apr 2021
Location: Gatwick
Posts: 377

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green
I think retroanaconda has hit the nail on the head there.

previous maintenance history will play a large part in what needs doing.

I planned and priced up one with a mate a while back for his 200tdi (although it got stolen before we started!).

Our plan (as we were going to do it ourselves) was to build up the new chassis as much as possible before starting. The car was his daily drive, so this approach had the added benefit of shortening the period that it would be off the road.

To this end we were going to fit build up a set of axles and then assemble the chassis on these, with all new suspension. new brake and fuel lines along with fuel tank, meant getting to a rolling chassis before we'd even touched the 'original' car.

Certainly a more expensive way to go, but is essentially a mechanical restoration rather than just a chassis swop. His car was quite tired, so it was the right thing to do.
Post #952065 9th May 2022 1:03pm
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Mossberg



Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

United Kingdom 1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green
Yes I can see where the expense is building. As you point out, starts to become a restoration rather than a chassis swap.

I have just changed my rear axle case. I got an old one for £80 but changed the A frame ball joint, all the bearings and seals, calipers, discs, pads, brake hose, new brake pipes etc. Probably in the region of £450 with paint, brake fluid, etc. Thankfully the drive shafts, stub axles and hubs were OK. I used electrolysis to clean up the axle case, disc shields, A frame yolk(?), springs, and now I have what looks to be a fairly clean axle with new nuts and bolts used.

I have recently rebuilt my front hubs, swivels and brakes. I have now purchased a 300tdi front axle case (already refurbished) and some hockey sticks to suit (hockey sticks also given the electrolysis treatment). I will swap over the axle case with the refurbished gear and again the front axle should be a good unit. All this as it will be a quicker swap if and when it does need a new chassis.
Post #952067 9th May 2022 1:28pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2656

Scotland 
Cubflyer wrote:
Retroanaconda wrote:
I re-chassised mine myself using the body off in one piece method and spent about £4k in parts/materials.

That’s the best way to keep the cost low, if you strip it right down you’ll find many more issues and spend much more.


I would suggest this may be a good method for those born into engineering, having a good selection of tools, and the time and space to do it.

That I would suggest is not even 50 percent of the forum.


It’s not rocket science and yes you do need space, but I would argue less space than dismantling the vehicle entirely. Not sure what being born into engineering has to do with it?

I did it this way back in 2018 and it took me about two weeks:


Click image to enlarge


And then did it all again last year the other way, which took much longer:


Click image to enlarge
Post #952076 9th May 2022 3:13pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17451

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Cubflyer wrote:
Retroanaconda wrote:
I re-chassised mine myself using the body off in one piece method and spent about £4k in parts/materials.

That’s the best way to keep the cost low, if you strip it right down you’ll find many more issues and spend much more.


I would suggest this may be a good method for those born into engineering, having a good selection of tools, and the time and space to do it.

That I would suggest is not even 50 percent of the forum.


The problem with the body-off-in-one approach is that the operation of lifting the assembled body is difficult for most people, whilst removing the body in pieces is generally much less of a lifting challenge. Apart from that one aspect, the body-in-one approach is easier, quicker, and will require fewer tools and less skill, since you will be dealing with a fraction of the number of seized fasteners you'll have to deal with in a piece-by-piece strip-down, you will end up overhauling and replacing far fewer components, and you will have very few of the enormously-time-consuming alignment problems that even the factory couldn't get right.

I would suggest if you are simply re-chassising to extend the life of the vehicle, body-off-in-one is the way to go. If you are rebuilding the vehicle because you want a remanufactured vehicle built to your own standard that will last for ever, do it the "nut and bolt" route and be prepared to spend much more.

I really cannot understand the "born into engineering" comment, it makes no sense to me, you will need at least as many and probably more tools and and at least as much and probably more know-how to dismantle the body rather than lift it in one (and if you don't have - or have access to - the tools and know-how, should you even be doing this)? I would suggest that the deciding factor (other than your motives for the rechassis) is whether you actually have a way to lift the complete assembled body from the frame. It is a large and relatively fragile mass, but you don't have to lift it very high to roll the chassis out from under it.

If you are doing this job on a Disco2, of course, you don't have any choice, you have to lift the body.
Post #952082 9th May 2022 4:26pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2656

Scotland 
Precisely.

I did it the body off method the first time as I was doing a lot of miles and just needed to swap the chassis quickly and keep the vehicle on the road. The second time I had another Land Rover to use and so was able to take the time to do it properly. Plus the body was so rotten by that point it would have probably broken in half if I had tried to lift it, but that’s a minor detail Laughing
Post #952083 9th May 2022 4:35pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3428

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
From another perspective, Cubfly has a valid point.
I have seen so many assemblies (not specifically Defender) being damaged further from wrong disassembly or wrong assembly. I guess the same could apply to a Defender. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #952087 9th May 2022 5:23pm
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Dave T



Member Since: 07 Jun 2013
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 490

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Cairns Blue
I rechassied mine back in 2012 and serialised it here, unfortunately the phots have gone.

https://slroc.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7224.0

At that time I was fairly new to Defenders and had never done any of these big jobs before. It gives you a list of what I replaced and total costs on page 4, but bear in mind, the marsland chassis was £1200 in those days!

Also, I wasn’t looking for pristine paintwork or anything as it is jused off road and for trials, so you would need to add more to my costs.

If you have never done anything like this before, it is possible on your driveway and with just minimal special tools, an engine hoist was about all I needed. It just takes a little longer, but you certainly get to know your car intimately and it makes future jobs so much easier…….go on, have a go. 2015 RRS Autobiography SDV6
1994 Def 90 300tdi
Post #952158 10th May 2022 1:26pm
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Goldenballs



Member Since: 22 Apr 2021
Location: Reading
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 
I’m not sure if all these comments scared me or excited me into doing a full rebuild…

MOT time in December will probably be the decision day…
Post #954922 8th Jun 2022 10:31am
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Penfold_6290



Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 320

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
I've just picked this up - have you seen these people?

https://www.terraintechparts.com/pages/def...eplacement

I don't know where on the South Coast you are but this looks like a good deal, they quote a price for a Shielder Chassis but you could spec a Marsland and pay the extra. I'm a pretty competent mechanic but I don't have the facilities or appetite to do a chassis swap, I'd sooner pay someone else to do it even if I end up taking a couple of years to repay the cost for doing so.
Post #954950 8th Jun 2022 2:42pm
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Mean Green



Member Since: 15 Sep 2011
Location: South Ayrshire
Posts: 280

Scotland 
I am almost finished my re-chassis of a 1993 200tdi 90 - to be honest I have not kept a tally of the cost.... probably too scared to find out (or if Mrs found out!!) but I would think it will be around £6/7k. But I have done everything as I have found it - so new doors (3), re-built the tub, bushes, springs etc etc.

I got the Shielder Chassis from terraintech - the only issue I have found with it is that the Dixon Bates tow bar will not fit - the holes no longer line up with the chassis - I think it is the mounts on the bottom of the cross member are a little too long.

My re-build started in April 2020 and was going to be my lock-down project - it is still not back on the road, but wont be long now!
Post #954951 8th Jun 2022 2:54pm
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shanecl



Member Since: 20 Mar 2013
Location: Louth
Posts: 509

Ireland 1989 Defender 90 V8 Petrol CSW Auto Firenze Red
Goldenballs wrote:
I’m not sure if all these comments scared me or excited me into doing a full rebuild…

MOT time in December will probably be the decision day…


Don't i'm 9 years and 42k so far Rolling Eyes but i am OCD
Post #955021 9th Jun 2022 9:51am
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