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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727   
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The glacial paced project which is the 110 rebuild is creeping forward at an embarrassingly slow rate.
I have run into a problem with the exhaust manifolds. I bought the Double-S sports system, including the manifolds. When I came to fit it - I discovered it occupies the same space as the Bosch knock sensors - the blue plug in the following picture:  Click image to enlarge A bit of googling later, I found that there is a 'slimline' version of these knock sensors, to resolve this very specific problem, so these were ordered from Tornado Systems (http://www.tornadosystems.com/product/slim...ransplant/), and these turned up on the door step shortly after: Click image to enlarge With the original knock sensors removed, the manifold could then go on. Plenty of clearance around the right hand side of the chassis: Click image to enlarge although the starter solenoid is going to get cooked - it will need some sort of heat protection. The exhaust also clears the gearbox removable cross member, which was a concern I had: Click image to enlarge However, the story on the other side is tight tight tight: Click image to enlarge with about 3 mm of clearance to the chassis rail, as well as going to cook the clutch slave cylinder 
Click image to enlarge So I am in a quandary of what to do, with two big issues to resolve: (1) Clearance to the chassis rail on the left hand side (2) Cooking the engine components I don't think I can easily bend the offending pipe further inboard, as its already within 1mm of the next pipe over - which is not that far from the engine itself - and I don't know how I could bend them in further anyway, doing it while attached to the heads does not seem like a good idea. I could knock a flat into it increasing clearance, which seems the bodge approach, or I could just leave as is to see how much rock of the engine there will actually be. An alternative approach might be to fit the p38 style manifolds, which are pretty cheap at about £70 on ebay for a used set: Click image to enlarge But then I'd have the problem of trying to construct a pipe to connect to the remainder of the Double-S system - although this would perhaps make the job of welding on the O2 sensors a little easier. Any suggestions? Talking of the rest of the system - this is the fitting kit which the exhaust came with: Click image to enlarge The exhaust attachment points on the chassis are horizontal holes like this: Click image to enlarge Does anyone have any bright ideas as to how that fitting kit is supposed to attach to the exhaust at one end, and the holes at the other? I am totally stumped. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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8th Nov 2020 9:51pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5699 
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Have you considered getting the headers ceramic coated to assist with the heat.
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9th Nov 2020 7:42am |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10381 
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I wrapped mine in thermo tec to help.
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9th Nov 2020 7:46am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Thank you for replying gentlemen.
If I understood what Tornado were saying correctly, the slimline knock sensors were actually what Land Rover moved to towards the later stages of the GEMS production Greeni, it just seems to be information which was secreted away. You have to be a little bit careful with which connector it has on it, as they also changed the connector at some point - but the ones I have are for the original style of the blue sensors. Did you get the same Double-S manifold then Greeni? It seems such a pity to batter them to provide a bit more clearance, I wonder if I can work out a way to bend them a bit in the bench vice... I was aware of ceramic coating landy andy, but had not seriously looked into it. Doing a bit of googling, I have found a couple of places within 50 miles of home which will do it, eg: https://www.zircotec.com/ at Abingdon, although the lack of pricing on their website is a little cause of concern - prices on other websites seem to range from around ~£300->£600 if I have extrapolated their sample prices. I wonder how much heat transfer a ceramic coating would actually offer, and how long would it last? 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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9th Nov 2020 12:04pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10381
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Yeah I got the Double S.... not a massive amount of choices to go at.
For the knock sensor I got some nuts and bolts of the same thread, wound the bolt in the block, welded the nut to the head and screwed the knock sensor into that, works a treat 
Edit: Have you got the co2 sensor bungs welded in? Last edited by GREENI on 9th Nov 2020 1:37pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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9th Nov 2020 1:36pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 149 |
I don't think the P38 manifolds will fit - the outlet points directly towards where the bulkhead goes from memory, and there's not enough space to make a downpipe..
Regarding the knock sensors - they look to be standard Bosch sensors used in a multitude of European cars. Unless the mounting stud is made out of solid gold there's a rather large markup going on there! |
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9th Nov 2020 1:37pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Yes they were steep, made worse by the fact that I had broken (well I'll assume it was me) one of the original blue knock sensors when installing the engine somehow, so I'd already shelled out £70 for a replacement blue one, oh well
Thanks for the information on the p38 manifolds jonny, I did wonder how far forward the bulkhead fits in relation to the downpipe location. I shall remove that option from the list then, money saved. I haven't welded the O2 sensors in yet Greeni. I'm contemplating putting them in the Y-pipe piece rather than the manifolds, as its a simpler circular circumference there, which I am hoping to get a matching diameter O2 bung. The manifold joint where 4 pipes meet is a funny shape, and I am looking to keep things as simple as possible for my limited TIG skills  2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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9th Nov 2020 2:11pm |
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| Romadog Member Since: 07 Jul 2011 Location: Powys Posts: 1749 |
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Range+Ro...6B8lgzRnGM
I use standard RR Classic/ D1/ Def 50th manifolds and standard y section then modify from then on to suit  |
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9th Nov 2020 6:01pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10381
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Click image to enlarge Here’s where mine ended up. |
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9th Nov 2020 7:25pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Those heatshields seem to be unobtainable Romadog, but thanks for the heads up on them.
On reflection, I don't think I'm going to be happy using this stainless manifold. Assuming I want to batter into submission so that it has more clearance to the chassis rails, the design of them will behave like a bit set of radiators with lots of surface area, cooking everything under the bonnet. I dug out the original carburetor manifolds to assess them: Click image to enlarge Obviously they are a lot more compact (which is good). However I do wonder how restrictive they would be for the larger capacity engine - while I am not after a race car, I also don't want to loose a significant amount of power and/or economy just because of the manifolds. Instead, I am contemplating obtaining a set of Range Rover manifolds as you suggested Romadog, such as these currently on ebay: Click image to enlarge and then fabricating a stainless section to meet up with the rest of the system, possibly also with one of the flexible joints in to allow for a bit of engine movement. Not sure how I'd manufacture the flange to bolt to these manifolds, I don't really have a tool to cut ~10mm steel to shape. I wonder if I could get a matching downpipe and flange from somewhere... 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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15th Nov 2020 7:35pm |
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| jonny Member Since: 10 Mar 2013 Location: North Wilts Posts: 149 |
If you use the 3.9 manifolds, a 3.9 RRC Auto catless Y pipe it will join up to a standard defender back half..
I have 3.9 manifolds, a stainless Y pipe from Rimmer and a TD5 back half on mine. You may need to fit & slightly modify a disco gearbox crossmember (which are cranked vs. the defender one which is straight) to allow the pipes to go underneath rather than over the top. |
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15th Nov 2020 7:40pm |
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| V8GPC Member Since: 18 Jul 2016 Location: Manchester Posts: 289
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The second picture with the cast manifolds with yellow paint are the same as the 50th Defender.
They also clear the blue knock sensors. The tubular crossmember is easy to modify - it just requires longer end plates (or a section welding to extend them.) |
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16th Nov 2020 9:10am |
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| muddypaws Member Since: 22 Jan 2013 Location: Leicestershire Posts: 122 
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OK, so I may be a bit late for the party but are these bad boys any good?
They are bespoke S/S, 1.5" primaries with a four into one 2" collector outlet; just happen to have these lying around 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Richard Defender 90 SVX |
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16th Nov 2020 9:53am |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727
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Oh man... yes it would have been Richard - had I not only this morning decided to stop dawdling and get on and move the problem forward.
I have ordered the above Range Rover manifold, which I will attempt to fabricate a joining piece to the remainder of the Double-S system. It is scheduled to arrive on Thursday, so I'll see what £100 buys me in second hand parts off ebay. 2005 Td5 90 XS 1989 V8 110 CSW |
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16th Nov 2020 5:33pm |
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