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Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3685

F10 is the reverse light according to the Haynes manual on the fuse box under the seat, but the fuse has continuity. F10 under the dash box is the horn according to the diagram and is a 20A fuse.

15th Dec 2021 9:22pm

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6613

2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Co1 wrote:
Thanks Martin. I’ve got 0V at the switch connectors and the fuse continuity is OK. Am I right in saying that all that is left is damage to the cable?

If you've got the connector off the switch, bridge the connector terminals with a small piece of wire or paperclip temporarily and see if the reverse lamp comes on.

Or if you want to do further checks...

With a multimeter in Volts mode.

At the switch, between the Light Green with Purple and a ground (chassis) should be 12V ignition.
Green with Brown is the output from the switch to the lamp.

At the lamp, between the White (RHD) or Grey (LHD) wire and Black wire should be 12V when ignition on and in reverse.

HOWEVER, as in my post above, you can see 12V across here but there's no current able to pass through the switch.

For continuity check..

With multimeter in Ohms mode or continuity buzzer.

From switch Green/Brown to lamp White (RHD) or Grey (LHD), should be continuity/low Ohms.

From lamp Black to chassis should be continuity/low Ohms. However you would have other lamp issues on the same side if this ground was faulty.

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

15th Dec 2021 9:27pm

Martin
Site Admin

Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6613

Click image to enlarge

Thanks to Will@LRW

1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top

2015 D90 XS SW

15th Dec 2021 9:29pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3685

Martin wrote:
Co1 wrote:
Thanks Martin. I’ve got 0V at the switch connectors and the fuse continuity is OK. Am I right in saying that all that is left is damage to the cable?

If you've got the connector off the switch, bridge the connector terminals with a small piece of wire or paperclip temporarily and see if the reverse lamp comes on.

Or if you want to do further checks...

With a multimeter in Volts mode.

At the switch, between the Light Green with Purple and a ground (chassis) should be 12V ignition.
Green with Brown is the output from the switch to the lamp.

At the lamp, between the White (RHD) or Grey (LHD) wire and Black wire should be 12V when ignition on and in reverse.

HOWEVER, as in my post above, you can see 12V across here but there's no current able to pass through the switch.

For continuity check..

With multimeter in Ohms mode or continuity buzzer.

From switch Green/Brown to lamp White (RHD) or Grey (LHD), should be continuity/low Ohms.

From lamp Black to chassis should be continuity/low Ohms. However you would have other lamp issues on the same side if this ground was faulty.

Great stuff Martin, very much appreciated.

16th Dec 2021 5:38am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3431

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Most items covered above..
I guess you have already confirmed that you do have brake lights when the ignition is on. Same connection on ignition switch, but then I guess you have far more problems than just non operating reverse lamp. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

16th Dec 2021 6:17am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3431

Co1 wrote:

Thanks Martin. I’ve got 0V at the switch connectors and the fuse continuity is OK. Am I right in saying that all that is left is damage to the cable?

0V at the switch connectors.... is that checking between the 2 connections, ore one connection of the connector at a time to a good earth on the body/chassis or negative battery terminal?

Can you also remove fuse F10 and see if you have 12V on one side of the fuse contacts inside the fuse box while the ignition is on (no need to be in reverse gear)? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

16th Dec 2021 6:34am

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3685

Thanks Darren. Yep, everything else is OK, just the reversing lamp.

16th Dec 2021 7:22am

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1632

Make up a test light with a bulb holder in place and two needles solder on the tails of the wires with the fuse and try the wiggle test on the wire and if the light goes dim/out you’ve found your fault. I’d look at where it goes In and out of chassis rails and up the side of the bulkhead and down.

Check the actual fuse holder too as the quality of them is well 💩

You might have a ground and a 12v but the break corrosion can’t carry the load.

Click image to enlarge

16th Dec 2021 11:00pm

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