 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > What else causes steering to shake |
 
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| Philip Member Since: 09 Mar 2018 Location: England Posts: 510  
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Ignore the steering damper, it’s not there to damp those kind of high frequency vibrations. If you’re sure the preload is set correctly, wheels and tyres are round and properly balanced etc, then I’d say it will almost certainly be bushes - radius arm or maybe Panhard rod (even if they look OK on the car).
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20th Oct 2021 7:44pm |
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| drakes Member Since: 09 Oct 2009 Location: Hexham Posts: 112 
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Phillip
I will check bushes again but I don't think the preload is correct, I didn't fit any shims when I built it up and there is very little preload, if there were shims in there I would be taking them out to increase the preload but there isn't so I can't get it any tighter |
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20th Oct 2021 7:50pm |
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| drakes Member Since: 09 Oct 2009 Location: Hexham Posts: 112
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Panhard rod bushes have been done this year with genuine bushes
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20th Oct 2021 7:51pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3425  
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I guess your swivel is with 2 taper roller bearings, top and bottom?
I had similar problem with not enough preload with no shims, but on an old axle with the top Railko bush. My problem is that I forgot to install the Railko thrust washer FRC2906. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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20th Oct 2021 8:09pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845 
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Not such a helpful comment if you have the seals in place, and the swivels filled with oil, but I’m pretty sure the preload should be set before the swivel seals are in place. (Ask me how I know!… not) Though if it’s already too tight I don’t know how that would work. As Dinnu says, you haven’t left out a thrust washer? I think there’s still one in there on the roller bearing set up, though I’d need to check a diagram.
I’ve recently done all the bushes on my car - panhard, radius arms and shocks. Prior to this My steering was a bit of a committee decision - more than a bit vague. Now it’s really precise, so having bushes in good condition is important. I’ve had the steering wobble though and it’s not pleasant. First time around I got it into my head that the steering kingpin angle was wrong somehow and fitted castor corrected swivels and radius arms. That certainly sorted it. I think I still have the castor corrected balls in place, but the radius arms are back to stock. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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20th Oct 2021 8:25pm |
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| drakes Member Since: 09 Oct 2009 Location: Hexham Posts: 112
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donmacn
Yes it is all back in place. I did try to set the preload before fitting the seals, the issue is that it is too loose not too tight. When I fitted the new top bearings I had to fit them without any shims to get any preload at all on it, normally I would expect to use at least some shimming to stop it being too tight but there are no shims fitted and it is still too loose. This is the same for both sides otherwise I may have suspected a faulty part. |
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21st Oct 2021 2:28pm |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2644  
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A few months back I changed my pre-production Terrafirma + 5 dampers (given to test) to OME +5 from Gwyn Lewis plus the steering damper.
Whilst under there I changed the bushes on the front anti roll bar …..took it for a drive and had a shimmy in the tyre balancing range. Had all the tyre balanced, made no difference, just moved the speed up before the shimmy. Changed the rear prop as UJ’s and slider on the way out, same problem Changed the front prop shaft for the hell of it, same problem. Though I now have a good spare 
Took off the anti roll bar Rechecked and re tightened the damper nuts, no change Installed an adjustable Panhard rod (due to the 2 inch lift) Popped down to my local specialist garage and they said before checking the preload move the tyres front to back. I did that, reset the pressures and problem solved. Why…..  knows, worth a try though before it drives you mad.
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21st Oct 2021 3:39pm |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 215  
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Worth checking all nuts / bolts on all steering / axle components are tight and correctly torqued. Recently had a wobble in the steering and one one of the two bolts holding the panhard rod bracket to the chassis was loose.
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22nd Oct 2021 10:30pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1845
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My logic was, if there was something missing, then the swivel housing would be loose, and no amount of shims would tighten it up. I had thought there was a thrust washer at the bottom bearing, between the inner race and the swivel pin, but I don’t know where I’m getting that from as I’ve just checked the diagrams and there isn’t one shown. Is it oil tight? I guess so, or you’d have mentioned that. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Oct 2021 9:02am |
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