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donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 |
I haven't tried Kingspan... But on the roof I used some adhesive silver faced foam. I got it from Lasalle trim (as they're relatively local it was easy to collect as I was passing) but there might be cheaper options available.
I've found it to be pretty good, and flexible enough to be cut and shaped. I think it's made the car warmer and stopped any condensation issues, so worth considering IMO. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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20th Oct 2021 9:43am |
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Avelingporter Member Since: 25 Jan 2016 Location: Southampton Posts: 405 |
I used a 10mm thermo liner from deadening.co.uk. It is a closed cell foam with a foil barrier that comes in a roll and you can cut with scissors. That was on top of a sound deadening layer, I used silent coat, but plenty of options there. Easier to install that a rigid board type insulation. Especially on the underside of the roof over the forward cab area. You can wrap it around the curve on the outer sides. Plus it fits under the exisiting roof liner. Not difficult to do and well worth the effort. Not just a thermal barrier but also a sound barrier. My roof is black, and it made a world of difference.
To finish the back off I used mudstuff plastic hard top side panels, but you could easily use the carpeted type if you want to save a few pennies. |
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20th Oct 2021 9:49am |
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