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MussEd

Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 348

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Baltic Blue

Caliper bolts question - getting into them!!!

Started to change my Puma MY2013 rear discs and pads today. And whilst I wouldn't exactly say I fell at the first hurdle, I'd definitely class it as within sight of the starting line

I got the pads out, bottom caliper bolt was a wee bit tight but got it off pretty easily. Then the top one. I couldn't even get my socket in the space, never mind the ratchet or breaking bar. It fouls on the bottom of the rear spring. I shifted the jack and stands and jacked up the chassis so the axle would droop and spring hopefully sag out of the way but still not enough room.

Am I doing something obviously wrong? I've only read or heard of folk having bother with bolts that are stuck or shear not with actually getting into them.

18th Aug 2021 9:32pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3371

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Can use a ring spanner? Get the ring of another spanner into the open end side to increase leverage. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

18th Aug 2021 11:11pm

MussEd

Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 348

Worth a shot - thanks Dinnu!

18th Aug 2021 11:15pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7914

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

3/8 short socket Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

19th Aug 2021 8:28am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17248

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

I don't recall what tools I use for this job but have never had any difficulties. Are you using 1/2" square drive socketry? If so, as jst suggests try 3/8" drive (it is rare that I ever use 1/2" drive). I seem to recall that a shallow 3/8" drive socket and slim ratchet fits straight on, and a 3/8" drive socket with the appropriate extension can pass the spring and come out behind.

19th Aug 2021 9:06am

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

I think I also used a 350mm 3/8 breaker bar, and turned the wheel to move it slightly away from the spring. Those guys can be tight in there. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

19th Aug 2021 9:09am

MussEd

Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 348

I was using 1/2” hence the issue. Got a wee socket on there this morning, fitted like a glove and I’ve rounded the bloody thing off. So I’m really screwed now. Why oh why do I bother!

19th Aug 2021 9:47am

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2278

Are you using a 6 or 12 point socket? The caliper bolts have a 12 point head. If you are using a 6 point socket then it will be driving across the points of the head and easy to slip. Try a 12 point socket which will drive on the V's of the bolt head

> 110 XS Double Cab

19th Aug 2021 10:09am

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

. Hank is bang on about the 12 point socket.

If the worst comes to the worse, then all I would say is.... Cobalt drill bits.

I used them recently to remove a rounded cylinder head bolt on a V8. First time I'd used cobalt and was amazed at the difference. They are expensive, but worthwhile. If you started with a 3mm, then up to a 6mm, then a 9 or 10mm that would do the job.

You would only need to drill the head of the bolt enough to pull the caliper off - i.e. you wouldn't have to drill all the way down into the shank of the bolt. Once the tension is off the bolt, the rest should come out easily, though as those are threadlocked they may still put up a fight. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

19th Aug 2021 11:09am

MussEd

Member Since: 20 Feb 2013
Location: East Lothian
Posts: 348

Yeah I got 12 point socket after seeing a few posts. Still rounded. I’ve stuck the pads back in and taking car to a professional to get the work done. Defeat well and truly admitted! Thanks for the advice chaps. I’m just a hamfisted dolt!

19th Aug 2021 12:06pm

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

Not at all.

I have to say, whenever I do this job I always offer up a wee prayer just in case it goes wrong. The bolt rounding is precisely the thing I always hope to avoid. I think I've just been lucky so far! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

19th Aug 2021 12:31pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17248

donmacn wrote:
... You would only need to drill the head of the bolt enough to pull the caliper off ....

The only problem with this is you'd probably need to take the axle off the vehicle first to get access

Other options might include cutting or grinding the head off so that the caliper can be removed, after this the disc can come off and the "other end" of bolt becomes accessible, or welding something to the damaged head of the bolt so that it can be gripped.

19th Aug 2021 12:35pm

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

^^

I'm not near my car at the moment to take a sense check, but I thought, if you put the wheels on full lock that you'd get into the bolts with a drill?

I'd imagine that getting in with a grinder would be even more difficult?

This demonstrates why I always offer up my wee prayer for the damn things to turn! Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

19th Aug 2021 12:49pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3371

Problem is that the OPs caliper is on the rear axle, not the front axle.

He does not say if it is a 90 or 110, but I know the 90 is more limited space wise... I do not know if there is enough space due to the fuel tank brackets. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

19th Aug 2021 1:26pm

donmacn

Member Since: 07 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

Doh!!

My mistake. Should have read that more carefully. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

19th Aug 2021 1:27pm

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