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v8bob

Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 317

I have an Ifor that has the 7 pin socket on the front. For this I use a nato plug to 7 pin plug home made lead.
Depending on what I tow with I switch the bulbs between 12 and 24v. I carry a bunch of spare bulbs. But if I tow in daylight I just change the indicator and brake/side bulbs. I have the adjustable height Dixon Bate. Note there are different lengths. It might be better to get the maximum drop one if you don’t run laden.
On my Military trailer I just use the nato plug. But again switch the bulbs between 12 & 24v.
It only takes 5 minutes to change the bulbs. And it is good to undo the screws and turn the bulbs.
I used to have a non Ifor, that just had a 7pin plug. I added an additional socket for towing this. But haven’t used that for a while as I no longer have that trailer.
I also have a trailer board and a short nato plug to 7pin socket just in case I need to use it. I made that up when I needed to tow a car.
I think I have most things covered......

26th May 2021 8:34pm

v8bob

Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 317

WhiskyDisco wrote:
It's ex-Singapore Armed Forces, manufactured in Solihull in 1986.

Is that a Santana?

I believe Santana were made under license in Spain.
So if your one is from Solihull, then not a Santana.

26th May 2021 8:42pm

Username

Member Since: 08 Aug 2021
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 1

blackwolf wrote:
You have several options:

1. Sell the trailer and buy an ex-military trailer such as a Penman. Only an option if your trailer is broadly similar, of course.

2. Obtain a NATO 12-pin plug and lead, usually available from ebay and ex-mil surplus dealers, and either fit it to your trailer or fit a civvy 7-pin socket to the end, so that the lead adapts your vehicle socket to the trailer plug. You would also need to fit 24-volt bulbs to your trailer, if the Defender really is a 24-volt vehicle.

Re. the coupling, the best option is to buy a DB coupling kit complete, which includes the "ladder" for the rear crossmember together with the reinforcing piece that bolts to the bottom of the crossmember and the braces whcih run from the bottom of the "ladder" to the chassis (which use the same bolt-holes as the tie down rings, one of which is visible in your last photo). If you buy an additional "slider" you can use one for the civvy-type 50mm towball and (if you need to) fit the NATO pintle to another.

Edit: my post crossed with the one above. I'd forgotten the adaptors!

Hi Blackwolf. I bought a kit like this, fitted easily to my previous tithonous ex mil 110. Replaced that with a wolf 110 last year, but can't fit the reinforcing piece, because the bolt holes on the underside of the rear cross member are missing. I can't just bolt the ladder directly to the rear cross member, using the 4 holes for the pintle, because that raises the height, so the braces foul on the fuel tank. Any ideas? I'm th bk ng about just welding the reinforcing piece directly to the rear cross member.

Cheers,

Oli

8th Aug 2021 12:41pm

Lops

Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Scotia Grey

Click image to enlarge
Hello all

I've looked through this thread and I have a Penman with NATO twelve pin and need to connect it to the existing 7 pin on my Puma, I think I've worked out the wiring just a couple of questions will this wiring still allow the front lights on the trailer to work, I'm assuming the are wired in with rear lights and does the convoy light influence any thing else? not worried about the permanent live as I have a heavy duty Anderson plug to connect to supply the powered stuff.

hope the pic is visible any help/advice is appreciated

11th Aug 2021 7:42pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Username wrote:
Hi Blackwolf. I bought a kit like this, fitted easily to my previous tithonous ex mil 110. Replaced that with a wolf 110 last year, but can't fit the reinforcing piece, because the bolt holes on the underside of the rear cross member are missing. I can't just bolt the ladder directly to the rear cross member, using the 4 holes for the pintle, because that raises the height, so the braces foul on the fuel tank. Any ideas? I'm th bk ng about just welding the reinforcing piece directly to the rear cross member.

Cheers,

Oli

Military rear crossmembers are often quite different from civvy ones, which is why the Dixon Bate kit doesn't bolt straight on, unfortunately. If you have the means to weld on the reinforcing piece then that's a good solution. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

12th Aug 2021 5:22am

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

Lops wrote:
I've looked through this thread and I have a Penman with NATO twelve pin and need to connect it to the existing 7 pin on my Puma, I think I've worked out the wiring just a couple of questions will this wiring still allow the front lights on the trailer to work, I'm assuming the are wired in with rear lights and does the convoy light influence any thing else? not worried about the permanent live as I have a heavy duty Anderson plug to connect to supply the powered stuff.

hope the pic is visible any help/advice is appreciated

Yes, the front marker lights are wired in with the rear lights.

The convoy light doesn't influence anything. It's actually the other way around in that the convoy light switch in the towing vehicle that influences the convoy light. Basically, if you don't apply power to it's specific wire then it won't come on. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

12th Aug 2021 5:24am

Lops

Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 7

cheers thanks for that

12th Aug 2021 8:25am

Intercept

Member Since: 27 Feb 2017
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 587

2002 Defender 110 Td5 Black LE Java Black

LandRoverAnorak wrote:
Design and Development Engineering make an adapter from civvy 7 pin to NATO 12 pin (at not inconsiderable cost)

I was lucky enough to get one of the D&DE adaptors secondhand (but unused) a while back for a good price. It works well and allows me to use my Sankey with the 110 and 101 but I wouldn't pay the full £102 - I'd do it properly and fit a NATO socket to the 110. However - even at that price there seems to be no shortage of demand because every batch of adaptors sells out very quickly. The 12/24 voltage issue was solved invisibly on the Sankey via some lamps from Classic Car LEDs.

12th Aug 2021 4:41pm

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