 | Home > My Defender > 2002 110 DCPU Rebuild Project |
 
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227   
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Day 7 Progress (Stripdown):
Not really much worthwhile to share via photos this time. A very physical day (made worse by doing little physical work for the last 12months) to get the steering, suspension and axles removed from the chassis along with removal of some of the remaining brackets. Rear axle was the first one to remove. The ARB was easy enough to remove as they have only been on for a couple of years and the bolts were all copper slipped when assembled. Disconnected the brake pipe from the chassis and put the engine crane around the chassis to take the weight and allow me to get the rear springs out. I decided the best method would be to remove the axle with the trailing arms and a-frame still attached. The bolts which hold the A-frame crows feet to the chassis were in a terrible state and took some serious effort to remove but once removed the axle was free of the chassis. As the wheels were still on the axle could be manoeuvred out (annoyingly hadnt quite left enough room behind to the shelves). Once the chassis was supported on some axle stands at the back, I started stripping down the rear axle: - Diff-guard off, - Axle oil drained out (glad to see it was nice and clear with no bits), - Brake pipes off, - A-Frame off, - Trailing Arms off, - Wheels off, - Brake Calipers off, - Disc Shields off. For now I have left the spacers/discs, drive members and hubs in place but will remove them next time. Lifted the axle up onto my big pair of stands eventually as it was a pain doing it on the floor/small stands. I always under-estimate just how hefty the Salisbury axle is, especially when complete with wheels etc! There is a decent dent in the diff pan cover which I had forgotten about but doesnt seem to be causing any issues so will probably leave it unless the pan looks bad after shotblasting.  Click image to enlarge The front axle took ages to remove, primarily as the bottom spring retainer bolts prevent access to the lower shock mounting nuts so had to be removed first which took more effort than it should. The bottom shock mounts were a real pain though, despite wire brushing and several applications of plusgas, they fought the whole way off. Took a long avation ring spanner on the nuts with a chain wrench around the shock body and maximum effort to remove them. Not sure why as the top ones were quite easy. The engine crane did not have the capacity to lift the front of the chassis up with the engine, gearbox, transfer and steering box still in it so I used an old scissor jack between the chassis and axle to get the clearance to remove the front springs. The panhard rod and steering linkages came free without any issues but the height of the chassis on the stands was not sufficient to roll out without removing the steering box so this was the next item to come off. I had already mostly drained the system but it still gets messy when disconnecting the lines. The box came off without too much resistance although the state of the two long bolts which hold the panhard rod support were badly necked down by corrosion. I was then able to roll the front axle out from beneath the chassis, stripping down of this will have to wait until next time. I decided to focus some efforts on splitting the A-frame down, the two bolts which hold the balljoint casting came out nice and easy as I have removed these in the past but the two 3/4" bolts through the crows feet brackets were a real mission. Again wirebrush and plusgas helped but the exposed threads were badly pitted so took some serious effort. The spanner/socket size is 1-1/8" for these if anyone needs to know. Even with the 3/4" socket set and scaffold bar these bolts took two of us to remove and really worked up a sweat! Eventually removed though. Ever since we bought the 110 the steering box has had evidence of a small weep from the piston cover but has not been bad enough to worry about. There is no play in the box and it runs smoothly so certainly not going to swap it out. After a bit of googling I had worked out that the piston chamber cover is sealed with a single square profile ring seal and can easily be removed after getting the large circlip out. Got the cover off quite easily after giving the area a good clean to stop debris getting into the steering box. The internal bore looks in good order and there is no corrosion or anything so I assume that the rubber seal has just failed. Unfortunately you have to buy a complete seal kit to get the seal but I can now replace it and hopefully stop any further leaks. With the cover off I was also able to fully drain and flush the old fluid out which was quite black and nasty. Before packing up I did a little investigation on the R380 box as there looked to have been oil leaking out of everywhere. Took the selector mechanism off the top which all seemed clean and in good order. A look inside the box from the top all looked fine. From what I can work out, the breather banjo looks to be blocked which i guess is why oil has been forced out of the top of the box where the selector bolts on. I have new input and output seals for the box anyway so I can hopefully prevent any further leaks after the rebuild. The refurb ashcroft transfer box all still looks fine after about 18months of use. The oil came out nice and clean this time, first oil change after about 1000miles was quite black and nasty but I believe this is fairly typical, especially with the centre ATB. Seems my 5yr old genuine fuel filter housing has more or less dissolved too! A good example of bimetallic corrosion between the bolts and housing: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Approx.. time spent 8.5hrs. Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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18th Mar 2021 10:54am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Thanks L110CDL, glad you enjoy my exploits/rembings! 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread
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23rd Mar 2021 2:08pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10756 
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I find reading all about the projects on def2 is very relaxing and learning a lot at the same time
 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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23rd Mar 2021 8:36pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
5yr old genuine fuel filter housing has more or less dissolved too! 8mm nylon washers 5/16 nylon fuel pipe and abs plastic sheet nylon washer under head for the set screws and 5/16 nylon fuel pipe as sleeve over set screws cut to size and abs plastic sheet cut too size fit in-between fitter head and chassis  |
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7th Jun 2021 11:01am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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I have been a bit lax on the updates front but finally making some reasonable progress now work has calmed down a bit and the weather has been a bit more favourable:
I stripped the front and rear axles right down (diffs remained in place) and ran into a fairly unexpected issue. A few years ago ,whilst on the busy motorway, i had what i thought was the seizure of my front right wheel bearing which almost resulted in me hitting another car or possibly rolling over but managed to keep control and crawl off at the next exit/services. Upon inspection underneath I could not see any issues at all, all four wheels were free to spin and there was no slack in the bearings or any signs of damage. So i cautiously continued on to where we were staying overnight and managed to get hold of a new bearing and grease the next morning so i could change the bearing at the side of the road. The bearing showed no signs of damage and was still well greased. The stub axle had some signs that it had been quite hot however so I assumed the bearing had been over preloaded and the inner race had spun on the stub axle. For peace of mind i changed all the wheel bearings the following weekend (using timken rather than the cheapo one from the local motorfactors i fitted to the problem corner). Never had any issues since, no funny noises etc. Upon dismantling the front right hand side I find the remains of the stub axle needle bearing welded to the CV joint! Good Side: Click image to enlarge Bad Side: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Annoyingly the driveshaft/CV was a proper GKN item which was only fitted a couple of years before failure. The stub axle was new and both the bronze bush and needle bearing were genuine items so no idea why failure has occurred! Removed all of the old bushes from the suspension arms ready for them to be shot blasted along with the axle casings before I paint them: Click image to enlarge Got myself a new floor standing shot blast cabinet to start cleaning up all of the various brackets and things before I send them off for galvanising. With the rebuild on the 90 we just paid for a local company to do the blasting but they charged a fortune, took three times longer than they originally said and did an appalling job! Got a big box of bits to crack on with: Click image to enlarge Decided that painting the chassis outside was going to be a pain as i had nothing to really roll it in and out of the workshop on and the weather was either too wet to paint outside or too dry (and dusty). Was also going to be hard to access the whole chassis to spray it with it on some kind of cart too. Toyed with brush painting it indoors (so the fumes would not be an issue) but really didnt want to end up doing this. So nicked the pair of A-frames from the roll-over jig on my Peugeot 205 and made up a couple of brackets from the scrap I had lying around to hold the 110 chassis. The front is held by some round bars (the ruined driveshaft from above) into the jacking points and a bit of box section and the rear is bolted onto the towbar mount on the back of the chassis. As my 2" receiver towbar will be going on the chassis, i wasnt too concerned with not getting an even coat of paint behind the plate. Will brush a bit of paint on the centre later. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Now i was to spray it indoors with the Jotun paints I was a bit more concerned with the nasties in the paint so bit the bullet and bought a proper air-fed mask setup. This used quite a lot more air than i hoped (quoted as 10-12CFM) and my compressor (18CFM) could only just keep up with the demand with no spare for the LVLP spray gun. So after a bit of trial and error I ended up with a couple of little 1.5hp compressors in tandem running my spray gun and the big compressor running the mask. Worked quite well and spraying on the roll-over jig was so much easier than it would have been without. 2 coats of Jotun Penguard HB Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge then 2 coats of Jotun Hardtop HB: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Once the chassis painting was out of the way, focus turned to the only remaining bits on the old chassis (engine, gearbox, transfer box and fuel lines): Lifted the Transfer box out first as i thought it would be a bit too heavy with my engine crane on maximum reach. Engine and gearbox then came out: Click image to enlarge The engine and gearbox were then split and the TD5 went onto the engine stand: Click image to enlarge The gearbox then got a good clean up: Click image to enlarge Then a lick of 300deg engine enamel: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Once i had stripped all of the brackets and things off the engine and gave the first side a good clean, wirebrush and a coat of engine enamel: Click image to enlarge The old chassis got cut-up to free up a little space: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The chassis got fitted with all of the brackets I had painted along with the new engine mounts, bump stops and fuel tank before I moved it back onto engine stands: Click image to enlarge Didn't take any meaningful pictures last weekend but the chassis is now back onto my big axle stands and is ready for the engine and gearbox to be fitted. I was in two minds whether or not to replace the water pump whilst access was good but whilst taking the water pump housing off the engine i realised there was a lot of backlash between the PAS pump and water pump. Upon inspection the waterpump the bearing felt very notchy and the drive dogs on both of the pumps was very worn and fretted. So new waterpump ordered and the PAS pump (which was leaking anyway) also ordered. Whilst the engine is out it is getting the following: - New waterpump & seals, new PAS pump - Front and rear main-seals - Oil pump drive gear bolt and sump gasket replaced - Oil pump/stiffener removed to check the bottom end over - New LOF SMF & clutch kit Next weekend hoping to also get the gearbox ready to fit by changing the input and output seals, V8 5th gear and new filter, Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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22nd Jun 2021 1:47pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10756
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Thank you for the update
No harm in being a bit lax, as long as we get the update on here 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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23rd Jun 2021 7:40pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092 
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just had a binge read of this... great stuff!!
Any updates from last year? |
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19th Sep 2022 4:38pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Cant believe it has been over a year since I last updated the thread! I had a brief change of focus towards the end of last year to fit a new kitchen at home which slowed progress a little. Still a lot of progress has been made. So roughly in order:
Following on from painting the engine block, I took the sump off to check the bottom end, clean out the sump and pickup pipe and replace the infamous oil pump sprocket bolt: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The engine was then all reassembled with new PAS pump, water pump, sump gasket, front and rear crank oil seals, injector harness, cam cover seal, HEL turbo oil feed pipe, vac pump drain hose and Gore water outlet housing: Click image to enlarge And into the chassis (now on stands) with new engine mounts and a LOF single-mass flywheel conversion kit: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The gearbox was another story all together. I had originally planned to just take the extension housing off and fit the V8 higher ratio 5th gear and replace the input and output seals. However, the output seal collar had other ideas and would not come off without heat. The heat caused damage to the output shaft bearing (which has/had a plastic roller cage. When the extension housing finally came off, I found this on the filter: Click image to enlarge At the point I was at, it didnt make sense leave it so decided a full gearbox rebuild was on the cards. The special tool for removal of the 5th gear layshaft nut couldnt even hold the gear sufficiently and needed re-welding and the 1/2" impact gun to get the nut off, even with the staking removed: The gearbox was then fully dismantled for inspection and a suitable stand assembled: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I already had the 5th gear conversion parts but also now had to buy the Ashcroft rebuild kit, along with replacement reverse, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears as they had very worn dog teeth (the source of the swarf in the filter). Also got a new oil pump for it. Got loads of photos of the rebuild of the box but wont upload loads of them here. It was quite simple really with the help of the rebuild manual and a few youtube videos. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The gearbox then went onto the engine/into the chassis and the transfer box went back on: Click image to enlarge That covers things on the mechanicals for now, onto some of the body.... 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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20th Sep 2022 11:30am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Bodywork wise the front end doesn't really require much work, the doors are all brand new so the main focus is on the rear tub. I was aware that the tub floor was in fairly poor state but until the tub came off the old chassis I hadnt realised that all of the under floor structure was also badly corroded. So I bought all the bits pre-galvanised from YRM and a new 3mm rear floor. Removal of the rear floor is complicated slightly on the DCPU tub because of the bulkhead behind the second row seats. I didnt want to remove this bulkhead as it is bonded and spot welded to some exposed parts of the tub. Fortunately with a bit of planning and careful grinder work, the old floor was cut into smaller sections and the angle section which attaches the floor to the bulkhead removed. This would allow the new floor to be slid into position beneath the bulkead, then a new angle piece bonded and riveted on. I also bought the repair panels for the sloping sections at the end of the rear wheel arches as the old seatbelt mounts had rotted their way through the originals.
Everything stripped down: Click image to enlarge The actual assembly of the rear tub floor is relatively simple with the tub off the vehicle. I decided to trail fit and drill everything with panel pins and small fasteners, then paint everything in component form before final re-assembly: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Everything primed using Jotun Penguard HB. I will paint the whole underside and internal bits of the tub with UPOL raptor following assembly: Click image to enlarge I have used a proper blind rivet countersink bit on the tub floor to ensure a flush finish once complete. The longitudinal stiffeners are bonded to the floor with tigerseal and rivets (these are aluminium so no worries about bi-metallic corrosion between them). The galvanised lateral supports have had Heskins corrosion protection tape fitted to any areas where they are going to make contact with aluminium parts. I have also used tiger seal on the mating face to the tub but this was more to prevent any vibration. Click image to enlarge Unfortunately my pneumatic rivet gun is too large to get into the corner along the edges of the floor so I have just used M5 bolts temporarily. If I had thought ahead a little more then I would have seam sealed the length of the floor to tub joint before fitting the lateral stiffeners but I got a little carried away 
Click image to enlarge Because of a large dent in the N/S rear panel, I decided the best option would be to remove the original and fit a replacement. This was a fairly simple job - just a case of drilling out a few rivets and spot welds. New OEM panel bonded back on with tigerseal. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Had a fairly mammoth few weekends of shotblasting all of the small parts in my blast cabinet but I had to outsource the larger bits (axles, suspension arms and cappings) to a local place. Hadn't used them previously and should have been wary when they told me they wouldnt quote but just charge by the hour. But as it was desperate i went for it. Click image to enlarge Sadly and they properly had my trousers down, charging me £65 and hour plus materials which came to a whopping £380  They also did a fairly poor job on some of the bits with loads of bits of paint remaining on the cappings. The place local to my house would have blasted and powercoated everything for less than that! It did at least finally let me get bits off to the galvanisers:
Click image to enlarge Made the most of the decent weather and got the axles and all of the suspension parts painted: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge And a set of new Superpro bushes fitted: Click image to enlarge Which has allowed me to get front and rear axles/suspension mostly fitted now: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread Last edited by rallysteve on 20th Sep 2022 3:00pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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20th Sep 2022 12:21pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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And the last update to bring things fully upto date:
Took advantage of the weekend and extra bank holiday to get a bit more done: Re-painted steering box with the leaking seal refitted and new genuine PAS pipes fitted: Click image to enlarge As the pump and pipes are new and the box has been fully drained/opened up, i wanted to fill the system and bleed it up. As i cant currently run the engine, i used a allen key bit on the end of my cordless drill to engage with the PAS pump to circulate the fluid whilst manually turning the steering input shaft. This seemed to work really well and it was bled up in no time. I used some of the actually specified extreme climate PAS fluid this time rather than just the usual ATF. Fitted the intercooler onto a new Valeo radiator as the old one was in much worse state than I had thought and got it fitted onto the chassis and pipes reattached: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I had cleaned the fuel tank out before fitting it onto the new chassis but as the pump has been out a while, i though it was best to double check, all was well: Click image to enlarge Stupidly when i was fitting the pump a while back i managed to drop it on the concrete floor and break the plastic strainer and housing at the bottom. I finally managed to get a second hand Discovery pump off ebay for a reasonable amount and removed the bottom section, cleaned it up and fitted it to my original pump and sender: Click image to enlarge Pump fitted to the tank and the fuel lines fitted: Click image to enlarge Possibly didnt mention previously but also had fitted a Gore fuel filter head to the chassis (old one had disolved in 6years!), a new filter, galvanised cover and new main fuel lines. To make sure I had no leaks I manually powered the pump using the powerprobe and a car battery to purge the system. All seems dry and the pump is now nice and quiet. I got the front and rear ARB fitted. Have used the Superpro bushes for both of these along with the Lemforder greasable links all fitted with the Gwyn Lewis poly boots: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Obviously, springs and mounting hardware fitted front and back. Also reassembled the swivels with new seals, gaskets and teflon coated swivel balls. I had hoped to get it back on 4 wheels this weekend but ran into a few issues: 1. The new Salisbury axle stub axles i bought for the rear axle it turns out dont fit my 2002 casing. It seems the later casings, before they started fitting the P38/wolf axle had modified ends to allow ABS to be fitted. These actually use the normal Rover axle stub axles. 2. I had cleaned and degreased the hubs ready to refit the inner bearing races a few weeks ago. As it was a lovely sunny day I left them down by the door to dry in the sun. Sadly I forgot about them and it has since rained in and the outer bearing races have rusted. Its only light surface rust but I dont trust them so a new set of bearings ordered up. I refitted the front and rear diff guards (no pictures i am afraid) and fitted the Discovery steering drop arm conversion, Sumobars and trackrod ends. Again I went for the HD greasable Trackrod ends from Gwyn Lewis fitted with is poly boots. OME steering damper and bracket fitted too: Click image to enlarge Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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20th Sep 2022 12:46pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 738 
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I'm just in the closing stages of rebuilding my DC tub....but I did mine on the vehicle, I dont know if that was the right choice or not, looks a little easier with the tub off, but I know what would happen....I'd end up going through the rest of the vehicle, just like you.
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20th Sep 2022 1:01pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Realised I missed out the bit about the brake calipers!
I replaced all of the brake calipers with AP items about 5 years ago so they weren't in terrible condition. When i fitted them new I painted them with some Halfords caliper paint which hasn't listed very well and seemed to just be a magnet to brake dust which then wouldnt clean off. So started by blanking off the inlet ports and bleed ports and giving them a quick shotblast. This unfortunately meant the remains of the zinc plating they had on was removed but it was pretty deteriorated anyway. Before and after: Click image to enlarge I then split the calipers and installed a set of stainless pistons from LOF (superb service again) and a set of genuine seals. The pistons did come with a set of seals but i decided to go with genuine for peace of mind: Click image to enlarge It is worth noting that the older o-ring seals which are still available for the rear calipers are totally the wrong size for my later 2002> rear calipers. Fortunately the seals in mine were all reusable. Rebuild was really simple with the help of some Castrol red rubber grease and a dust seal installation tool. I then used a POR15 caliper painting kit which was quite a bit of work but seems to have yielded fairly decent finish. Hopefully it will last okay: Click image to enlarge I have been procrastinating about what to do with the bulkhead. It is in fairly good condition and only requires a couple of very minor repairs. I had originally intended to get it refurbed and galvanised by LR Refurb (previously used them to do a 300tdi bulkhead). However I totally lost confidence in them as they are totally unresponsive to emails, messages and phone calls. Have decided now to do the repairs myself and get it galvanised at the place I used for the other parts. Looking into having it acid dipped too to make sure the internals get a decent coat of zinc. 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread Last edited by rallysteve on 20th Sep 2022 1:15pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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20th Sep 2022 1:08pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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It certainly is a slippery slope
I think some aspects would be much easier on the vehicle (e.g. having reference points for lining things up). I am still having sleepless nights hoping that everything actually fits when it goes back together! Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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20th Sep 2022 1:10pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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New stub axles for the back axle arrived on Friday so had hopes of getting them all fitted and back on wheels today. Unfortunately this set of OEM stub axles didnt come with the seals so had to nick the ones from the other stub axles. The photo below shows side by side difference between the two:
Click image to enlarge Fortunately, this time the stub axles all fitted and bolted up fine with some new gaskets, bolts and some YRM stainless mud shield plates. Click image to enlarge Then onto fitting the new AP discs to the hubs and some new Timken bearings all around: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Hubs all fitted with new corteco hub seals which was a doddle with the new tool i bought. All fitted onto the axles and bearing preloads set. Spacers also all refitted, getting close to putting a Click image to enlarge Lastly, the refurbished caliper went on with new bolts and I am greeted with thes..... Click image to enlarge Just had no luck with the rear axle at all. Seems i have ordered 90 rear discs in error had more luck with the front at least:
Click image to enlarge Managed to at least get it back onto its front wheels: Click image to enlarge Front shocks also now fitted and the front ARB now tightened up now it is sitting at normal ride height. 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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25th Sep 2022 7:10pm |
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