 | Home > My Defender > 2002 110 DCPU Rebuild Project |
 
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227   
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I have decided upon the paint system with the advice/experience of Shroppy, plenty of online research and some advice from SML. The paint system I am going to use:
Chassis & Other fresh galvanised components: - Jotun Penguard HB (2 coats) sprayed with LVLP gun (have got the low temperature additive in case the weather is still cold), - Jotun Hardtop HB (2 coats) either sprayed with LVLP gun or brushed. Have not yet decided as this is a cyanoacrylate product so really needs an airfed mask if sprayed but I think one off use with a good P2 filtermask outdoors will be okay. Suspension & Axles (either wirebrushed or blasted cleanish): -Jotun Jotamastic 90 AL (2 coats) sprayed with LVLP gun (again have low temp/wintergrade hardener if reqd) -Jotun Hartop CA (2 coats) sprayed with LVLP gun (as i will no doubt use this quite a bit and mostly indoors it made sense to use the safer non cyanoacrylate product). Hope that helps, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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17th Feb 2021 1:21pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866 
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Just to add that any galvanised components should be degreased and lightly abraded to give a mechanical key (I used red scotchbright pads).
As for spraying or even brush painting any of the above I would recommend a full face or half mask with A2 and P2 filters, replacing them at the recommended intervals. You only get one pair of lungs and even the non-isocyanate paints can be pretty overwhelming. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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17th Feb 2021 1:30pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Day 4 Progress (Stripdown):
A fairly rubbish day productivity wise. Got down to the workshop around 8.30 to find pretty much everything in there dripping wet from condensation. This is always an issue but seems to have been particularly bad this year and just means that no matter what you do everything goes rusty almost immediately and all cardboard goes soggy. Fortunately most of my new parts are all wrapped up and stored in plastic tote boxes so are mostly sheltered from the damp but the engine (under a tarp) was dripping wet. I am glad that I blocked up the turbo inlet/outlet, intake manifold and all the fuel connections properly so shouldn't really be doing any harm, just annoying. As the icing on the cake, the unit next door has a toilet and sink installed and the wastepipe runs through our unit. This has backed up and created a horrible mess in the doorway of our unit. Most of the day was spent clearing this mess up and packing up removed parts into a couple of plastic pallet boxes along with making some new storage shelves. The only noteworthy progress on the 110 was to remove all of the silentcoat that i fitted a few years ago to the bulkhead and rear bulkhead. This is a horrible job and was cursing myself for fitting it so well 
Initially thought that using a hot air gun to warm it up would help but it just makes a sticky mess and the foil just peels off the bitumen layer. It seems that the 10degC temperature was about ideal for removing it, the silencoat sheets are just stiff enough to 'peel' off but not too gooey. When i tried the previous weekend when it was sub-zero the sheets were too stiff and were more brittle and would not peel at all. Managed to get all of the coating off the bulkhead and was able to assess its condition properly for the first time. It is worse than I thought but not too bad at all, should be fairly easy to repair.  Click image to enlarge The rust is in five places: 1. Bottom of N/S A-pillar - structural foot looks fine, just seems to be the inner skin which has gone. Exterior A-pillar is spotless. Click image to enlarge 2. Top of O/S A-pillar - strange place for rust, assume it is probably where the windscreen block has been leaking in the past which has rusted from the weld. Again the outer A-pillar is spotless: Click image to enlarge 3. Bit of blistering above the pedalbox which is mostly on the inside. Again suspect this is water getting in behind the dash and the paint being damaged by the footwell matting retainer. Click image to enlarge 4. Bit of light surface rust beneath the heater box - nothing major at all and much better than i was expecting after the heater hose has been weeping for about a year. Click image to enlarge 5. Bit of rust trace where the bonnet drain channel meets the bulkhead - doesnt seem too bad and have had a good poke of it and found no holes. Click image to enlarge So generally fairly happy. As soon as travel is a little more free then i will ship it (and hopefully the repaired side frames) off to Land Rover Refurb near york for refurb and galvanising. Approx time spent: 2hrs Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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22nd Feb 2021 11:07am |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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I have a feeling my bulkhead will be similar or worse, I'm going for Lizard Skin instead of Silent Coat, I bought a box of Silent Coat but after doing some more homework and reading theres no way on earth I'm ever putting any stick backed stuff on.
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22nd Feb 2021 11:27am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10756 
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Good update once you could get back to the landy and then have a good look and asses the bulkhead
1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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22nd Feb 2021 9:11pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Day 5 Progress (Stripdown):
A much more productive day this weekend. Managed to get both of the side frames dismantled and mocked up and get the O/S one all welded up. I wanted to do this before I removed the tub, roof and bulkhead from the old chassis so I still had some known reference points to get the re-assembled side frames assembled without having to rely solely on the tape measure. Took quite a bit of doing as the placement of original spot welds is shocking, there was one that had totally missed the overlapping parts. The upper sections of the C-pillar were removed by just cutting up the old angled part to save drilling holes in the bits that needed to be re-welded. I decided that the next step should be replacing the lower section of the A-Pillar while it was separate from the rest of the assembly. The O/S one wasn't really bad at all but the return lip on which the rear door seal attaches to was almost totally missing at the bottom 2". Removed the lower portion of the outer skin (split approx. mid-way beneath the lower hinge so the join is mostly hidded) and cut the rust section of seal lip away before shaping and refitting a new strip of 2mm steel. New outer skin then tacked on: Click image to enlarge And fully welded/dressed (will potentially need a bit of filler but will see what it is like post galv): Click image to enlarge Now onto assembly. First step was to get the new YRM lower sills bolted up between the bulkhead and the mid-body crossmember. Next step was to get the original vertical c-pillar pieces refitted to the tub (used some M4 nuts and bolts for this as it would be removed a couple of times and didn't want to have to keep drilling out pop rivets). I was then able the slot the two-piece YRM C-pillar angled pieces in place. Alignment of these is a little tricky as you have to try and get the angle of them right so the door aperture is correct whilst trying to make sure the inner tab is situated in roughly the right position on the rear seatbox. Unsurprisingly the holes in the tab don't perfectly line up with the original holes in the seatbox and front floor support but as both of these are being changed I am not too worried: Click image to enlarge Final mock-up step was to get the B-pillar slotted over the new lower sill and bolted into place on the roof and up the 2nd row footwell kickplate. Also fitted the new triangular panel to make sure alignment looked right with that too: Click image to enlarge Once i was happy with all the fit, all parts came off and many 6mm holes were drilled for plug welding and the zintec coating removed on the new parts where welds would go. All the parts were refitted back onto the vehicle and clamped into place and most of the welds done in situ so alignment was all retained. All done and most welds dressed back: Click image to enlarge Took a bit longer than expected to do this one but the N/S one should be a bit quicker next time as the old frame is already broken down and the new lower sill rail already bolted into place. The bottom of the B-pillar on the passenger side is a little more in need of replacement (with filler removed). Ironically the returns for the door seals are actually better on this side than the other side: Click image to enlarge I have taken a few measurements of the spacings between the bulkhead/a-pillar and c-pillar if anyone wants them for reference. They are currently sketched out on the whiteboard at the workshop so will get a picture next time I am there. Approx. time spent: 8hrs Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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5th Mar 2021 9:24am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Wow, impressive stuff. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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5th Mar 2021 10:00am |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2300  
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Steve, in your experience what is a typical total duration for this kind of project? And at what pace?
I will need to do this one day in the future, though hopefully not for some time yet! > 110 XS Double Cab |
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5th Mar 2021 10:54am |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10756
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Thank you for such a detailed update and i thoroughly enjoy reading it all
 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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5th Mar 2021 8:58pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866
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Great progress Steve! Those measurements would be very handy please. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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5th Mar 2021 9:21pm |
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| Neilios Member Since: 01 Nov 2017 Location: Co. Durham Posts: 169 
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Ha, same here mine has been on the go since 2015😱 Keep up the good work. 1997 110 Hi-Cap Keswick Green 1997 90 Truck Cab Blue 1996 Discovery Pickup |
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7th Mar 2021 8:56pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Hank, it is hard to put a real timescale to it as there are going to be so many variables! I am hoping to get this one done, or at least back on the road, sometime over the summer. The previous 110 tdi took us around a year in the end for a chassis and bulkhead replacement and general freshen up. This was based upon two of us doing an evening per week down in the workshop and odd weekend days here and there. Quite a bit of time is spent waiting for parts though. The V8 90 took about 2.5years to do but was much more involved and a lot of time was spent fabricating/trial and error and waiting for new parts to arrive. This was done almost entirely by two of us spending Friday evenings in the workshop after work and usually one day per weekend but I was also did quite a bit of house refurb work and rewire in parallel which took up quite a bit of time. As i said earlier, I have put quite a bit of time, effort and upfront expense into trying to plan this one. Many of the parts have been ordered in advance to try and cut down on postage costs (really add up when you have to keep ordering a few bits every now and then). This time I have tried to buy almost everything i think i will require (some probably not necessary) and have missed a few but seem to have got it largely covered (hopefully!). I think when estimating a timescale you have to take into account how much you are going to be able to do yourself/with help/outsource and what facilities you have available. Doing it entirely outdoors will probably take at least twice as long as the weather will hinder progress. Storage space is also key, until you start dismantling it is hard to get an appreciation for just how many parts/how much room is taken up! Especially when you factor in new parts sitting around too. Hope that helps? Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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8th Mar 2021 10:46am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Thanks all for the positive comments
Another rambling update coming later today. Cheers 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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8th Mar 2021 10:47am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2227
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Day 6 Progress (Stripdown):
Before getting stuck into mocking up and welding the passenger side B-Pillar/Sill & C-Pillar I thought it would be prudent to refit the driver’s side now it was fully welded up and refit the old 2nd row door to make sure there were no clearance issue. Happy to say that the door fitted fine: Click image to enlarge With this done I cracked on with the repair of the lower B-Pillar on the drivers side. Was fairly easy on this side now I had worked out what to do on the other side. Annoyed with myself for rushing to try and get it welded up though as I tried to level the new and old skin up with a hammer rather too enthusiastically which has resulted in the outer skin being about 1mm concave where the weld is. Not too much of an issue as a thin skim of filler will sort it out and it will be hidden again by the lower hinge: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Fitting the C-Pillar was the same as the other side and again dummy fitted the rear door to confirm alignment before welding up fully. This time to get the door aperture size correct, the tab which sits on the rear seatbox sits a couple of mm above the old seatbox. Can fit a thin shim if required when I reassemble but as the rear seatbox and floor are being replaced it may be better/worse next time in any case. Both Side frames welded up, just need some final weld dressing and paint removing ready for galv (hopefully): Click image to enlarge For Shroppy and anyone else who might want the measurements, please see my whiteboard scribbles below: Click image to enlarge With this all done, it was full speed ahead to crack on and strip the remainder of the body off, so rear window out first: Click image to enlarge Then roof, rear cab panel and windscreen off: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Then the stripped bulkhead could be removed – the two main M12 bolts were well seized into the chassis and bulkhead feet so took some leverage and hammer action to get them moving so the bulkhead could be lifted off. With the footwell to chassis mounting brackets left in place, the bulkhead happily stands up on the floor. Just six bolts remained along the rear crossmember and two from the rear seatbox into the chassis remained for the rear tub so these were whipped off (or snapped in the case of the seatbox ones) along with the fuel filler hoses (hacksawed through these as expected the jublee clips would be seized and both are perished) and the tub could finally be lifted free to uncover the horrors! All bar one underfloor support are totally rotten and have rotted from inside where they have retained mud and rubbish over the years. I normally tried to blast water with the pressure water into the accessible ones (mostly the one visible in the rear arch which is the only one to survive). The front tub support bar (which provides all of the strength to the seatbelt inertia reels) was just a solid lump of mud with a crispy wafer thin shell of rust! Glad I planned ahead and bought all of the parts to rebuild the whole tub floor and rear seatbox. The underfloor supports did not look bad before the stripdown so shows how rust develops from inside to out in these terribly designed sections: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge There really isn’t that much left on the chassis now and I am at a tricky point with deciding what to attack next: - There is no point me currently removing the engine, gearbox or transfer box as they will just end up sitting on a pallet and being in the way until the new chassis is ready to receive them. - I have started filing down the sharp/rough bits of galv on the new chassis ready for paint but currently the weather is just too cold overnight to chance paint. I have low temperature additives for the paint, but these are only any use if the temperature stays above the dewpoint which is not currently the case. - The axles and suspension are also not required yet, but I need to get it all cleaned up, wire brushed/sandblasted and some of the bits will need to go off for galvanising asap. I think the next session will probably be getting the axles, suspension and steering off and any brackets required for blast/galv sorted out. I only have one set of HGV sized axle stands which will be required for the new chassis for a while so just going to set the old chassis down on a few small axle stands/blocks of wood until the time comes to remove the engine/box and it can be cut up for scrap (I will keep the Blacksheep rear X-Member which I think is the only residual value bit). A few pictures of the sorry state of the chassis: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Approx time spent: 9hrs Cheers, Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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8th Mar 2021 5:12pm |
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