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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1852

 
Gravel driveway maintenance
Hey folks,

This is very loosely LR related...... the Defender and P38 drive on this....

We have this driveway to the back of the house. When we moved in it looked much the same, though it was smaller pea-sized gravel.

About 15-16 years ago or thereabouts, we lifted what was left/what we could of the pea-gravel and took 20 tonnes of larger gravel chips and spread them around. Maybe 20-30mm chips.

Looked great to begin with, but over the years, and when a young family gets in the way of maintenance its got worn down, and the chips have got either mashed into the ground, or disappeared in the treads of the AT tyres!

The substrate/soil underneath is clay-based.

So now we're wondering how to tackle this. Weedkill and a further 20/30 tonnes of gravel is the easy answer, though we do plan to put a couple of drainage channels in too - running from house to forest.

But just wondering if there's any accumulated knowledge here that I could benefit from - any dos and donts - or if a periodic 'dump' of new gravel is just the way it goes?

Any and all advice gratefully received, thanks.


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 Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #881149 26th Jan 2021 7:51pm
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grafty99



Member Since: 15 Aug 2012
Location: North Devon
Posts: 4795

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 90 Td5 HT Caledonian Blue
We have lots of unsealed gravel tracks (probably few miles in total) and have found the best way of maintaining them is to scrape the top off with a digger and grading bucket, weed kill and then top up.

We have in the last few years changed from gravel to road planings, which is basically shredded tarmac. The beauty is that if you lay it on a firm base and roll/compact it then it knits back together to form a very stable and durable surface.

Also the beauty of them is that they're recycled and usually transport costs are low if you time it correctly with local roadworks and they take the top layer off and bring it straight to you which saves them time and driving hours and so the cost savings get passed on!

In areas of very high traffic where the hot summer sun has done its work some of it has actually returned to a fully sealed tarmac like road Thumbs Up 2002 90 Td5 Station Wagon
1990 Vogue SE
Triumph Tiger Explorer 1200
Td5 90 Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic50767.html
Tdi 110 Thread https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic69562.html
RRC Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic54492.html
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Post #881154 26th Jan 2021 8:09pm
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boxoftricks



Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 747

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
We put down a membrane and then type one base with gravel on top. The type one I got cheap direct from a quarry and its as good as the day it was put down as gone rock-solid. You need to dig down or put in edging or else the shingle spreads.
Post #881157 26th Jan 2021 8:17pm
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3797

United Kingdom 
Hello


Our front drive looked very similar, different bits of concrete, some grass, some soil area where we removed a raised brick boarder, a miss match of all sorts,

I just put down a weed membrane all over the place and then had many bags of 20mm pebbles delivered.


so before...




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during..



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After



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Ours has been like this for over 4 years now, get the occasional weed coming through (and only now) as the cars are not driving on it as much not being used Shocked It looks 100% better, good for security also as you cannot move quietly on it.

OOh and since then I have seen the light and now have more Landrovers (3 in total) but these two I have a picture of on the drive Smile Thumbs Up




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Post #881158 26th Jan 2021 8:19pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1852

 
Thanks guys,
I kind of thought that to do it properly we'd need a machine and a membrane; scrape; base; membrane; and then new gravel but I suppose I was hoping there might be a shortcut.

It's far too big an area to do by hand, and I don't have easy access to a digger or even the experience to use it. It puts the job into the realms of getting someone else to do it. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #881160 26th Jan 2021 8:29pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2698

Scotland 
Mini digger hire is cheap and they’re dead easy to use. Just don’t dig up any power cables or drains/pipes!
Post #881162 26th Jan 2021 8:34pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1852

 
Aye, to be fair to myself I did hire and use one when I put power between the house and the garage - digging a 600mm deep trench in this ground would have been too much. I only hit the garage once with the bucket.....

The posts in my last pic used to be a 'play area'. Each of the posts are down about 750mm to a metre. I did that by hand, and there wasn't an easy inch in it - but I was about 17 years younger!

That's by way of saying it's heavy ground, and i think I'd need a 'bigger' mini-digger!

I suppose all this is confirming that I need to set time and budget to one side to do it properly. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #881168 26th Jan 2021 8:57pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8166

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
so its lasted 15 odd years? just put another 20/30T down.

i looked at digging all ours up and putting a membrane down and then more chipping, decided it wasnt worth the effort. 12years ago i put down 40T and other than grading some of it about every 3 years it pretty much all there. Will need some more in a few years time. Cheers

James
110 2010 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #881176 26th Jan 2021 9:12pm
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s55shh



Member Since: 30 Dec 2019
Location: staffs
Posts: 195

United Kingdom 
Beware of using road planings from an unknown source. Older road surfacing used coal tar which, when its planed out, is a contaminated waste. You could look at some kind of stabilisation mats that are usually recycled black plastic and stop the gravel creep, but personally, I'd just get it topped up and repeat in another few years.
Post #881183 26th Jan 2021 9:23pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1852

 
TBH James, that was Plan A - as close as I can estimate it's 17 years since it was put down. Just as you say it's the thought of the hassle of digging it up, putting the chips to one side, laying a base and a membrane etc etc that's off-putting.

To get rid of the weeds is there a prefered tool to lift them, or would a good dose of weedkiller do the job?

Edit - yeah, road planings - I've seen it used in the sort of situations Grafty mentioned, and look OK, but I don't really fancy it for the back of the house. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #881184 26th Jan 2021 9:25pm
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C&M



Member Since: 28 Aug 2020
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 185

United Kingdom 
On a previous house I started off with basic gravel but after only a couple of years noticed that it was getting crushed in the areas the cars both drove and sat.

I changed this to Newbury stone as its much harder and more flinty if that makes sense. it moves but harder wearing

I topped it up twice in 20 years with about 10 tons each time but the overall cost over this period was under a grand I'm sure.

weeds - flame thrower gets rid of them pretty quick. safer for the dogs than weed killer IMO Defender D250 HSE
Dender 110 XS - sadly gone
VW Polo
VW Caravelle - Gen 6
Post #881227 27th Jan 2021 8:09am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1852

 
The stone we used before - and will likely use again - is from the local quarry about 5 or 6 miles away. What you get depends on which area they're working in at the time. I'm pretty sure the cars aren't literally crushing it, just that the weight is driving it down into the ground underneath. But presumably that has to stop somewhere!

Weedkiller - we don't have dogs or cats to worry about or even small children these days. The nearest we get is the badgers on the grass, or the red squirrels which occasionally run in to bury a peanut! It's not so much that the weeds themselves need burnt just that I'd like to try and kill off the roots to minimise what might grow through any new gravel.

Does anyone have any good weedkiller recommendations? I did read that a 'salt and vinegar' mixture (honestly, don't laugh) was effective. Some said it was bad because it sterilised the soil for years - but under a driveway that's exactly what I'm looking for. Anyone used this successfully? Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #881259 27th Jan 2021 10:04am
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htb2



Member Since: 02 Nov 2018
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 537

Wales 
Lad near us did his driveway with plannings liberally sprinkled with red diesel to soften, then wacker plate down, very environmentally friendly. Oh there was an open ditch at the bottom of drive to catch run off....
Post #881293 27th Jan 2021 12:40pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1822

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
^^^ a Polish friend of mine swears by diesel as a weedkiller - lasts for years!

Salt is good, stops the osmosis as the ground has a higher salt content than the plant.

Size of chipping is important, we used to refer to anything around 10mm as kitty litter for good reason.

All of the readily available weedkillers were watered down or banned a few years ago - roundup and sodium chlorate (?) etc you need either a friendly farmer or someone with a poisons licence to get proper stuff these days.

HTH Keith
Post #881297 27th Jan 2021 12:50pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2698

Scotland 
Glyphosate is pretty hard to beat, you can buy the proper RoundUp online rather than the watered-down rubbish you get in Homebase and the like. ProActive 360 is the trade name for the general purpose stuff and it will kill pretty much anything green. Bear this in mind when applying in terms of wind drift and drying time (and avoid spraying when rain is forecast). Don’t for example walk across the weedy surface while it’s wet and then cross your lawn, else you will get footprints of dead grass Laughing
Post #881300 27th Jan 2021 12:53pm
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