DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Central Heating Wireless Stat Installation help wanted.

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Off Topic > Central Heating Wireless Stat Installation help wanted.

Page 1 of 2

Print this entire topic ·

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 368

Central Heating Wireless Stat Installation help wanted.

Any heating experts about?

I have recently moved into a house that has heating provided by a dated Warmflow oil boiler. The boiler and it's built in programmer are situated in an out building, which makes it a bit of a pain when there's a need to over-ride the set program.

To overcome this and bring my heating up to date I have obtained a wireless stat, but having studied the current wireing, the original installation manual and loads of on-line information I'm still not convinced I understand how to proceed. I know it should be fairly easy to do, so I'm reluctant to call out an engineer. The boiler was recently given a good service and although having suffered previous neglect is working okay. At the time of the service the service guy scratched his head a bit at the thought of interfering with the current set up.

Can post pictures of current set up, etc., if there is anyone able to help.

Thanks for reading. It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

30th Sep 2020 1:36pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5808

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver

Plenty of help on here. Get the pics loaded up. It’s a simple job when you understand it. Basically you are only installing a wireless switch.

30th Sep 2020 7:20pm

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 368

Spent another hour or so this morning trying to get the better of this, but still getting nowhere.

Warmflow UC70HE combi oil boiler.

Warmflow PU1 (TM-0521) programmer.

No Thermostat fitted.
Well actually there was a wireless Salus transmitter near to the boiler, but when I traced the wires back into the boiler, the ends were cut clean and taped - no indication that the transmitter had ever been connected to the boiler. The wireless thermostat was not in the house when I moved in.

All radiators have TRV's fitted.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge
efender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/21204/normal_IMG_20200915_162108627~0.jpg[/img]

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

3rd Oct 2020 10:51am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5808

Have you got a better pic of the wiring diagram? Can’t make out the writing when I zoom in.

3rd Oct 2020 11:07am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5808

Click image to enlarge

3rd Oct 2020 11:16am

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5808

I haven’t looked at all the info, but I assume on your boiler you have a switch for hot water and a switch for heating?

If so the programmer can be thrown away as you would have the DHW (hot water) on all the time, and then wire into the boiler a programmable room stat. That removes the need for the boiler programmer, and the allows you to control the heating remotely, including being able to boost it. The other way is to leave the timer in place but leave heating on permanently on the old programmer.

3rd Oct 2020 11:22am

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 368

Thanks for taking a look.

Click image to enlarge It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

3rd Oct 2020 12:33pm

landy andy

Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5808

Here is the wiring diagrams.
https://www.freeboilermanuals.com/assets/p...ised-1.pdf

Shows stat here.

Click image to enlarge

3rd Oct 2020 12:41pm

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 368

Thanks, I have been trying to make sense of that diagram. I have it in the original installation manual that I have.

What I'm struggling with is, knowing what wires to disconnect/reconnect.

I have a new Salus i500 ready to install, unable to provide a link to installation manual at the moment, but easily found on line. I went for a Salus because I thought I would be replacing what had been there before, until I discovered it hadn't been wired in.

Sorry, for slow replies currently in the midst of stripping 70's wallpaper. It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

3rd Oct 2020 1:12pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2140

Looking at the wiring diagram you provided pat it seems the switched live going to terminal 12 from the programmer is the wire you want to intercept before it goes to terminal 3 as this triggers the boiler when programmer timer calls for heat. Can you check there is a wire between T12 and T3.

In this configuration you leave the old programmer in place .
Turn off power and check with meter there is no voltage between T7 live and T8 Neutral
Remove the wire that goes from T12 to T3.
On your salus IT500RX receiver you should have NC ( normally closed), com ( common) , NO ( normally open) all under the ch (Central heating) label. Then L ( live) and N (neutral).

Connect a brown wire from T12 to COM on salus. No other wires should be connected to com terminal.
Connect a brown wire from NO on the Salus to T3.
Connect a blue wire from T8 to N on the salus
Connect a brown wire from T7 to L on the salus
You can now put the power back on

set the old programmer to be central heating on permanently
You now have power to the iT500RX receiver unit and when the stats timer is in an “ on time period” and the stat temperature is set higher than the temperature of the air around it the permanent live coming from the old programmer, going to T12, then to the Com terminal on the stat will be switched to the NO terminal on the stat which then extends this live to the T3 port on the terminal block.

Important - this is my best assumption given info provided. Before doing anything phone salus and /or boiler maker to confirm this will work and is SAFE to do. They are generally very helpful. If you are not qualified / experienced in working with mains electricity get someone who is to do the work.

3rd Oct 2020 1:54pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2140

Been looking at your wiring diagrams again. So do you currently have a room stat in the house , or was the heating just run off the TRV’s on the rads in the house. If the latter then my previous post sill holds, just need to understand where that dual stat plug connects to as a double check If you do have a room stat then I would need more info on your total wiring layout.
I’m also assuming this is a combi boiler, so no hot water cylinder. Is that correct ?

3rd Oct 2020 5:08pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2140

I looked at the installation diagrams in the manual for the boiler , as the pics you posted did not match the wiring diagram you posted. Ie 5 terminals in the pic but 10 in the wiring diagram. I was working off the diagram.
All is more clear now. I will add more tomorrow but it’s basically taking the purple input off terminal 5, the one from the programmer ( not the one that goes to terminal 28 ) and extending to the com terminal in the stat, taking a purple wire from the NO terminal on the stat and connecting to terminal 5. Then taking a neutral from terminal 1 to the N terminal on the stat using blue wire. Then taking a permanent live from terminal 2 to the L terminal on the stat using a brown wire.

Will write up better tomorrow.....

Oh and the black wire on T5 in yor pic... where does that go. It’s not in the wiring diagram

The things you do when you can’t work on the truck due to rain

As before check with boiler and stat provider and only work with mains electricity if competent to do so.

3rd Oct 2020 7:26pm

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 368

Thanks Andy, Ian, your help is much appreciated.

Moved to a neglected old house just over a month ago, so up to my eye balls trying to get the place decent and will have to dip in and out of this best I can.

Will take another look this morning and try to respond to your questions.

Thanks again. It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

4th Oct 2020 8:23am

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 368

Ian to answer your questions,

Boiler is a combi.
No thermostat connected to boiler.
All rads have a TRV.

Wireing diagram showing how my programmer is connected in next post. Ideally I would like to take the old programmer out of the picture, it's probably 12 years old (from when the heating was installed) and doing the odd strange thing. It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

4th Oct 2020 11:18am

Pat

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: Somewhere new!
Posts: 368

Click image to enlarge It started with a kiss, never thought it would come to this.
SIII CSW Safari, limestone, (JAC 914N). Where is she now?

It's not a car, it's a way of life!

4th Oct 2020 11:19am

Page 1 of 2

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum