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Oakseywick

Member Since: 20 Dec 2014
Location: Cirencester
Posts: 1000

POR 15 on rear cross member

Hi after some advice I am about to give the rear crossmember so tlc and rub back and repaint I want a good rust preventer and hard wearing gloss finish. Is POR 15 the best option can in be hand painted and leave a smooth finish or better sprayed.

Thanks in advance

Andy Andy
Defender 90
Defender 110 XS
Cupra 290

26th Jun 2020 11:50am

markb110

Member Since: 22 May 2010
Location: Guildford
Posts: 2634

Hi

I am guessing all experiences will be different but here is mine

I have used POR 15 in the past, it’s a good paint but it is nasty stuff and you don’t want it on you. The paint in the tin does not keep and will go rock hard if you don’t use it all, then it is wasted.

Obviously preparation is key for a good finish.

I have since moved over to Corroless glass reinforced chassis paint. The shelf life once open is very good, I’ve also used it on tools to refresh them

It brushes on really well and does no leave brush marks so you won’t need a spray gun. It is also ready in 30 minutes for a top coat.

Buzzweld, actually use paint source from Corroless and actually do a kit with everything you need to paint the rear crossmember.

It won’t be gloss black, more of a matte finish, and textured

You could go with the Corroless base coat then overspray it with a gloss paint.

Good luck

26th Jun 2020 12:30pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

POR15 is an excellent chassis paint but unless they've changed the formula, it's not UV stable and therefore not recommended for areas that could see direct sunlight. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

26th Jun 2020 12:54pm

Ads90

Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 809

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green

I did mine using POR15 kit last time, after reading recommendations here.
I had 2 tins (sorry can't remember what each was called), but the undercoat went on really nice, smooth, no brush marks. Then the top coat (which was probably the chassis black, meant to protect the undercoat from UV) was horrible to brush on, left brush marks but I did my best. Looked reasonably good afterwards but started to peel off the undercoat after around 18 months. After a couple of winters it was looking tatty again, and yes I did the best prep I could.
I'll probably give Buzzweld a go next time.

26th Jun 2020 2:31pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

With por 15 you need to use the full system, so they have a degreaser to use first then a metal prep then the paint then top coat. As above the paint goes on nice but the brush on top coat isn’t brilliant so I use the paint followed by the spray on clear top coat that is uv stable

read up on the full recommended times for drying decorating etc to see if you want to get into the big job!

One I did last week with por15

Click image to enlarge

A before shot just for reference

Click image to enlarge

Edit: and after the metal prep stage, before painting.

Click image to enlarge Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

26th Jun 2020 3:38pm

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