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| Justtellme Member Since: 23 Nov 2015 Location: Ottawa Posts: 310   
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Pulling into a parking spot at work on Friday morning, all power accessories failed, the engine stalled and the battery light came on.
Popping the hood revealed the telltale end of a broken serpentine belt sticking out near the A/C compressor. After getting it home, it looked like the tensioner pulley was seized, stressed the belt, then snapped it. Pulled out my Paddocks purchased ( bought years ago as a contingency just in case) 36mm viscous fan coupling wrench, fashioned a counter hold out of 1/8” flat stock for the fan pulley bolts and tried to loosen the 36mm nut. The crap paddocks wrench, apparently made from cheese, just bent at the hex end and slipped...finally settling at about 40 mm across the flats and now useless. Found a giant 5 lbs whitworth wrench from my fathers old tool box that was pretty close to 36mm and the nut eventually broke loose. Removed the ridiculous 14mm 12 pointed bolt ( you need a 3/8” thin walled socket as a 1/2” drive 12 pt is too fat) that secures the tensioner and the assembly just dropped nicely off the engine. The repair manual states the bolt is left handed, but it is not. I believe they mean the pulley securing bolt is LH thread, which it is......Pulled the pulley off the tensioner to check the failure mode. The rubber seal on the backside had fallen away, the lubricant drained and the bearing cage had failed resulting in a mangle of metal looking like concertina wire. Bearing not really replaceable as the pulley is a clamshell riveted together with ss rivets capturing the bearing inside. Turning the tensioner over, I noticed the locator pin on the body was sheared off...  FFS!...yup and the other end seized in the front of and flush with the block, so nothing to grab onto. So careful grinding with a carbide burr on a die grinder to split the pin in the block near the oil pump and I was able to pull it out in two pieces......all the while checking my progress with a mirror and compressed air.
Access is terrible from the top since I still have the acoustic covers under the engine that the repair manual states removing the forward propellor shaft is necessary in order to remove. All efforts carefully executed in order to not damage or cut any aluminum of the oil pump/ block assembly So now everything is cleaned up and I’ll order a new belt, a tensioner( and idler pulley as preventative maintenance) from the UK which should hopefully be here in a week or so. Hoping the refitting won’t have any extra surprises. I love when a simple 30 min job stretches to 2 hours. Seems to be the way though for everything on this truck that has needed attention over the years. Patrick |
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26th Jan 2020 2:13pm |
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I had to put a new push button starter switch in my Range Rover. LR says four hours. I changed it in three minutes. 
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