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jonny1966



Member Since: 29 May 2011
Location: kent
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
wax oil
does any one know of a company in kent who wax oil. have found one in the mags in essex i think. just wondered if some one closer to home!
Post #74062 3rd Jun 2011 8:10pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Gigglepin near Sevenoaks do a Dinitrol rust treatment service for roughly £700. Need to leave the vehicle for a few days - always a good sign Thumbs Up Can do it yourself for £120 though Wink Once cleaned it would take no longer then maybe 3 hours using areosols!
Post #74140 4th Jun 2011 7:57am
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rossy



Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

Ireland 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey
how did I know you would be the first to jump in with an answer to that one Zag! Laughing
Post #74233 4th Jun 2011 5:18pm
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jonny1966



Member Since: 29 May 2011
Location: kent
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
thanks for that

wax oil or Dinitrol?? whats best

have just emailed giggle pin
Post #74254 4th Jun 2011 7:24pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
jonny1966 wrote:
thanks for that

wax oil or Dinitrol?? whats best

have just emailed giggle pin


Lots of info on that very subject both here and other forums already, the search facility is a useful tool in that respect. That said I'm sure Zag we be along soon, he has days of experience in applying rust preventative products to a Puma. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #74257 4th Jun 2011 7:57pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Yes it's best to do a search on whats best to use and where not to go to get it done Shocked

As MOG has said in the past, there are and have been plenty of ongoing discussions on this topic on this and other forums. Doing a search would be more fruitful Thumbs Up

Having been pm'd by a few people on the same subject an idea was discussed that a thread be started to detail as much as possible on how to go about treating a Defender. It could then be perhaps highlighted in the Technical Section as a point of reference.

I am STILL going through mine and learning how and where to treat whilst also trying out various products which I can feedback on BUT everyone will hopefully chip in with their own tips and knowledge so that we can get a pretty comprehensive guide on how to do it.

Bottom line is you don't have to do anything of course - it's not going to fall apart in 5 years from new although some chassis are quite bad after 10 years depending on the use they have had. Some original chassis are still going strong without treatment when they are 50 years old with a few welded patches! If you are keeping the vehicle for a long time the most important thing is to treat the inside of the chassis with a cavity wax product and all the nooks and crannies like the crossmember where mud can get trapped Thumbs Up
Post #74261 4th Jun 2011 9:14pm
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22900013A



Member Since: 23 Dec 2010
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 3150

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
I had mine on the ramps today to be wax coated (I think he used Wurths?) its ended up with thick cream colour wax inside the chassis, and black stuff outside on the chassis and axles etc. The inside of the bulkhead was also treated.
Looking at the condition of the ten day old chassis its quite shocking to think its not properly rust-proofed. The welds in some parts look like they could be better, but I noticed rust forming around a couple of small stonechips. The factory protection is pretty poor, and really is something they should look at improving. The result with mine is perhaps not the nicest to look at, but should at least give it a few more years of life! 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton
1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker
1969 IIA 1-Ton
1966 IIA 88"
Post #74262 4th Jun 2011 9:21pm
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jonny1966



Member Since: 29 May 2011
Location: kent
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Zermatt Silver
I had a look at before n after; he seams to be the most expensive for the complete job but looks the best.
Guarantees the work even if there are stone chips.

Arrrr whish it was easy to decide
Post #74303 5th Jun 2011 10:55am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
I would still strongly recommend you read through several of the online Land Rover forums as this certainly has to be one of the most widely discuss subjects. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #74312 5th Jun 2011 2:47pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
jonny1966 wrote:


wax oil or Dinitrol?? whats best



My D2 was Dinitrolled fully by a classic car restorer when it was a couple of years old. For the last few years I have "topped-up" with waxoyl myself from time-to-time.

I can't see any noticeable difference between the brands, they seem equally as good. With either you do need to re-apply every so often...

Just had a look on the Dinitrol site, they say "DINITROL is a wax which dries to leave a cured soft outer layer where as Waxoyl is a mixture of wax and oil which never cures and continues to be liquid even after many months."

Either way, applying these is a big improvement over not applying them, but to keep your chasis in good shape, you will need to re-apply (next time I'll maybe do one side of my car in Dinitrol, and one in Waxoyl and see what the difference is after a Scottish winter Very Happy ) every year-or-two dependant on usage... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #74408 6th Jun 2011 7:53am
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Miserableolgit wrote:
I would still strongly recommend you read through several of the online Land Rover forums as this certainly has to be one of the most widely discuss subjects.


I'd very, very strongly suggest you follw MOG's advice here. John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #74483 6th Jun 2011 5:11pm
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
22900013A wrote:
I had mine on the ramps today to be wax coated (I think he used Wurths?) its ended up with thick cream colour wax inside the chassis, and black stuff outside on the chassis and axles etc. The inside of the bulkhead was also treated.


Where did you get it done in the end if you don't mind me aksing? John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #74484 6th Jun 2011 5:12pm
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
Both do the same thing and in my experience there is really little to choose between them. I know you can DIY but I prefer to get someone to do it. My current 90 was done immediately after I got it and the coating is the same today as it was the day it was finished. Yes it has dust and sand adhered to it, but the protection is top notch.
Post #74485 6th Jun 2011 5:20pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Another point to be wary of which I've also just read in one of the LR mags is that it can take quite a few days even in summer to dry out the inside of the chassis before you trap all that moisture in with various treatments. The magazine actually quotes a week for muddy offroaded chassis as it's pretty impossible to get all the mud out from inside a chassis. Your not going to get it all out so it's better to wait until it is bone dry then plaster with your chosen gunk.

A few of the treatment places keep your car for a few days so it can be dried properly, some of them leave your motor overnight in a garage with a hot air blower after hot steaming it for instance.

It is definitely one of those jobs that if you are going to do it or pay someone to do it it needs doing right otherwise it's a waste of time and money. Make sure they will do your rear crossmember and door pillars also they can rot out before your chassis will. I talked to a forum member 3 weeks ago that hadn't had his rear crossmember done by one of the main firms mentioned here Rolling Eyes


Last edited by Zagato on 6th Jun 2011 6:16pm. Edited 2 times in total
Post #74496 6th Jun 2011 6:03pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
I WAXOYLED mine two years ago and this autumn I'll renew it, but NO RUST on my Defender....

Waxoyl have more rust inhibitors than others.

Others works like a oxygen shield, Waxoyl is also a shield with strong rust stopper/inhibitors.

p.s. my personal opinion..... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #74499 6th Jun 2011 6:13pm
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