Home > Puma (Tdci) > wax oil |
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jonny1966 Member Since: 29 May 2011 Location: kent Posts: 87 |
does any one know of a company in kent who wax oil. have found one in the mags in essex i think. just wondered if some one closer to home!
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3rd Jun 2011 8:10pm |
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rossy Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Co. Roscommon Posts: 1296 |
how did I know you would be the first to jump in with an answer to that one Zag!
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4th Jun 2011 5:18pm |
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jonny1966 Member Since: 29 May 2011 Location: kent Posts: 87 |
thanks for that
wax oil or Dinitrol?? whats best have just emailed giggle pin |
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4th Jun 2011 7:24pm |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 |
Lots of info on that very subject both here and other forums already, the search facility is a useful tool in that respect. That said I'm sure Zag we be along soon, he has days of experience in applying rust preventative products to a Puma. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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4th Jun 2011 7:57pm |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 |
Yes it's best to do a search on whats best to use and where not to go to get it done
As MOG has said in the past, there are and have been plenty of ongoing discussions on this topic on this and other forums. Doing a search would be more fruitful Having been pm'd by a few people on the same subject an idea was discussed that a thread be started to detail as much as possible on how to go about treating a Defender. It could then be perhaps highlighted in the Technical Section as a point of reference. I am STILL going through mine and learning how and where to treat whilst also trying out various products which I can feedback on BUT everyone will hopefully chip in with their own tips and knowledge so that we can get a pretty comprehensive guide on how to do it. Bottom line is you don't have to do anything of course - it's not going to fall apart in 5 years from new although some chassis are quite bad after 10 years depending on the use they have had. Some original chassis are still going strong without treatment when they are 50 years old with a few welded patches! If you are keeping the vehicle for a long time the most important thing is to treat the inside of the chassis with a cavity wax product and all the nooks and crannies like the crossmember where mud can get trapped |
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4th Jun 2011 9:14pm |
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22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150 |
I had mine on the ramps today to be wax coated (I think he used Wurths?) its ended up with thick cream colour wax inside the chassis, and black stuff outside on the chassis and axles etc. The inside of the bulkhead was also treated.
Looking at the condition of the ten day old chassis its quite shocking to think its not properly rust-proofed. The welds in some parts look like they could be better, but I noticed rust forming around a couple of small stonechips. The factory protection is pretty poor, and really is something they should look at improving. The result with mine is perhaps not the nicest to look at, but should at least give it a few more years of life! 2011 110 USW 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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4th Jun 2011 9:21pm |
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jonny1966 Member Since: 29 May 2011 Location: kent Posts: 87 |
I had a look at before n after; he seams to be the most expensive for the complete job but looks the best.
Guarantees the work even if there are stone chips. Arrrr whish it was easy to decide |
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5th Jun 2011 10:55am |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 |
I would still strongly recommend you read through several of the online Land Rover forums as this certainly has to be one of the most widely discuss subjects. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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5th Jun 2011 2:47pm |
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MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 |
My D2 was Dinitrolled fully by a classic car restorer when it was a couple of years old. For the last few years I have "topped-up" with waxoyl myself from time-to-time. I can't see any noticeable difference between the brands, they seem equally as good. With either you do need to re-apply every so often... Just had a look on the Dinitrol site, they say "DINITROL is a wax which dries to leave a cured soft outer layer where as Waxoyl is a mixture of wax and oil which never cures and continues to be liquid even after many months." Either way, applying these is a big improvement over not applying them, but to keep your chasis in good shape, you will need to re-apply (next time I'll maybe do one side of my car in Dinitrol, and one in Waxoyl and see what the difference is after a Scottish winter ) every year-or-two dependant on usage... Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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6th Jun 2011 7:53am |
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JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 |
I'd very, very strongly suggest you follw MOG's advice here. John http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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6th Jun 2011 5:11pm |
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JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 |
Where did you get it done in the end if you don't mind me aksing? John http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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6th Jun 2011 5:12pm |
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BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253 |
Both do the same thing and in my experience there is really little to choose between them. I know you can DIY but I prefer to get someone to do it. My current 90 was done immediately after I got it and the coating is the same today as it was the day it was finished. Yes it has dust and sand adhered to it, but the protection is top notch.
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6th Jun 2011 5:20pm |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 |
Another point to be wary of which I've also just read in one of the LR mags is that it can take quite a few days even in summer to dry out the inside of the chassis before you trap all that moisture in with various treatments. The magazine actually quotes a week for muddy offroaded chassis as it's pretty impossible to get all the mud out from inside a chassis. Your not going to get it all out so it's better to wait until it is bone dry then plaster with your chosen gunk.
A few of the treatment places keep your car for a few days so it can be dried properly, some of them leave your motor overnight in a garage with a hot air blower after hot steaming it for instance. It is definitely one of those jobs that if you are going to do it or pay someone to do it it needs doing right otherwise it's a waste of time and money. Make sure they will do your rear crossmember and door pillars also they can rot out before your chassis will. I talked to a forum member 3 weeks ago that hadn't had his rear crossmember done by one of the main firms mentioned here Last edited by Zagato on 6th Jun 2011 6:16pm. Edited 2 times in total |
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6th Jun 2011 6:03pm |
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dgardel Member Since: 30 Nov 2008 Location: Veneto (Heart & Head) Posts: 3586 |
I WAXOYLED mine two years ago and this autumn I'll renew it, but NO RUST on my Defender....
Waxoyl have more rust inhibitors than others. Others works like a oxygen shield, Waxoyl is also a shield with strong rust stopper/inhibitors. p.s. my personal opinion..... Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License |
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6th Jun 2011 6:13pm |
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