Home > Technical > A cautionary tale about hub nuts. |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
I think the only thing I can reccomend from the purveyors of the blue box is......................................the fitted seat covers! Mine have lasted a fair while now for the Defender, the Disco ones were good as well but I do remember the Disco 1 covers were back to front and inside out for one of the back seat squabs.
So, no, I can't really give good words for those either |
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26th Jul 2012 10:37pm |
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bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248 |
Hi Blackwolf, where did you get the Delphi discs from , I need to get new discs for the TD5 ? Had a look on the web the other week and couldn't really find what I was looking for. Ta Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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27th Jul 2012 7:09am |
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Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013 |
'Sh/tpart' up to their usual standard then I wonder if the the hub nuts are included in the "new parts under warranty scheme" what a joke
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27th Jul 2012 8:00am |
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wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581 |
I still live in awe how Britpart actually keep going! Still, let's face it; there are people out there who want cheap parts to fit to cheap vehicles and are 'happy' to accept the risk with them (apparently...).
Genuine Parts are not perfect either - I know someone who had to re-drill some mounting holes in genuine part discs the other day. We've had faulty D3 door looms when the loom looks nothing like it should be, but has the correct part number attached to both the bag and the loom. |
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27th Jul 2012 8:23am |
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Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 |
What a PITA
They haven't attracted the name for nothing. Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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27th Jul 2012 8:37am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 |
I got them from Brookwells, a company I have bought stuff from on several occasions and which has always provided first class service. |
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28th Jul 2012 4:39pm |
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bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248 |
Thanks
Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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28th Jul 2012 6:15pm |
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strang Member Since: 16 May 2012 Location: Happy Valley Posts: 1380 |
I would not buy anything in a 'blue' box to be honest. I have just heard of yet another series steering relay sheering off! That must be at least three to date that I have heard of. For this company to continue selling such dangerous products is bordering on criminal behavior IMHO! Euro-Leafing to infinity and beyond.....
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28th Jul 2012 8:25pm |
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womble Member Since: 27 Jan 2012 Location: south east Posts: 272 |
i was in an independant repairer and parts supplier a couple of months ago and he also referred yo them as s t !!!iwont be buying their stuff any more
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28th Jul 2012 10:02pm |
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Harryb450 Member Since: 11 Dec 2011 Location: over yonder Posts: 283 |
[quote="blackwolf"]Today I fitted new front discs, calipers and pads to my '07 Puma DC.
Anyone who's taken the hubs off a Puma (or late TD5) will know that Landrover in their infinite wisdom changed from the old arrangement of hub nuts (an adjusting nut, tab washer, and locknut, an arrangement that has worked very well for nearly 60 years) to a system using a spacer between the bearings and a one-use-only nut, tightened to 150lbft, with a collar to stake down into a flat on the stub axle. The result of this retrograde step, done I believe solely to reduce build costs, is that the hub nut cannot be reused.quote] is this figure same for front and back? thanks, Harry |
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29th Jul 2012 11:43am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 |
As far as I know it applies front and back to all vehicles fitted with the "idiot tube" spacers and single nut retention.
If your hubs have a single nut (with a collar on the nut that is staked into a flat on the stub-axle) then you will have a spacer between the bearings. In this case the nut must be tightened to 150lbft and staked (the reason for the high torque is to ensure correct nut retention and is nothing to do with the bearings themselves). If it is not adequately tightened there is a very good chance that it will work loose even if staked. If your hubs have two nuts with a locking washer between them then you don't have a spacers between the bearings (unless the hubs have been altered from standard) and the bearings should be adjusted and the nuts secured the traditional way. Note however that if you have the newer (single nut/spacer) arrangement then it is quite acceptable (and indeed desirable) to modify it either: 1) by removing the spacer tube and replacing the single nut with the older-style paired nuts and locking washer. If you do this, set up the bearings in the traditional way. You must use the later style locking washer though which has a "D" shaped hole, not the earlier "Series" type which had a tab to engage in a slot on the stub axle, or 2) leaving the spacer fitted and fitting the two old-style nuts together with the locking washer between them. In this case, it is my opinion that the inner nut no longer needs to be torqued to 150lbft since it is no longer dependent upon preload to prevent it coming loose. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES modify the hub by removing the spacer but retaining the single nut fixing since the nut will almost certainly work loose with potentially very serious consequences. |
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30th Jul 2012 11:24am |
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astoltz Member Since: 08 Mar 2011 Location: South Africa Posts: 31 |
[quote="Harryb450"]
one can revert back to the previous method: To revert back to the previous (Older TD5,Tdi,2.8i) way Land Rover fasten the Hub assembly do the following: Per Wheel: Buy 2x Locknuts - FRC8700 Buy 1x Lockwasher - FTC3179 - Remove/dicard 1x spacer that is used to set the preload - TOF1000xxx - Re-use 1x Washer - FTC5241 - Remove/discard 1x Locknut (RFD100000) and replace with 2x Locknuts - FRC8700 - Fit 1x Lockwasher - FTC3179 bewteen the above 2x Locknuts - Fit as per RAVE Manual using the previous (Older TD5,Tdi,2.8i) method I prefer setting the pre-load using the older method (You do not need to measure the "endfloat" and then buy a suitable spacer) it is also easier to perform "bush" repairs if needed when my Puma is out of warrenty I will do the above PS: The bearings on previous models is the same Part Number as the later Td5's and Puma's : STC4382 Regards Abrie 1997 Land Rover Defender 110 HT 2.8i (BMW M52) 2009 Land Rover Defender 110 HT 2.4 TDCi(Puma) |
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30th Jul 2012 1:00pm |
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Harryb450 Member Since: 11 Dec 2011 Location: over yonder Posts: 283 |
Thanks chaps!
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30th Jul 2012 5:59pm |
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MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414 |
[quote="astoltz"]
Done when I re-greased the bearings. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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30th Jul 2012 8:52pm |
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