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geostrategist



Member Since: 25 Apr 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 60

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Air conditioning problem
I'm rather stumped with an air con issue, so it's over to the the defender 2 hive mind for a solution.

It's a 08 110 CSW

The air con doesn't appear to have been working for a few weeks. I took it to a local garage for a recharge, which they did, and confirmed that it wasn't leaking. its still not working and they said it would need a new compressor and condenser (£2000+ for Land Rover parts!!!)

Before I go down that route, is there any expert advice as to what the problem could be?

-the system appears to be holding the pressure.
-there was until recently condensed water dripping out of the engine bay next to the fore wall, indicating that it was working to some degree.
-the fan in the cab operates when the ac switch is on.
-the fan on the condenser operates when the switch is on.
-engine revs drop a little when the switch is on.
-When turned on The compressor appears to start and stop. For want of a better description it clicks in and out and sounds like a starter motor engaging.
-the pipe between the confessor and compressor is warm.

Any suggestions (apart from open the window)?
Post #786790 14th Aug 2019 2:00pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4209

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
If there is no leak, I can't see the condenser being faulty. All it is is a radiator in reality, if it's not leaking there's not much else to go wrong with it. Yes, they corrode and fins fall out, but that would not stop the system working completely. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #786794 14th Aug 2019 2:34pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6298

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
If you're as daft as me the following could be what's going on...... Smile

I thought mine wasn't working but what was happening for me was this;

The a/c was working find but because the heater valve was stuck open it appeared there was no cooling effect. ie although the rotary dial on dash board was fully to cooling the valve wasn't fully closing due to cable not doing what it should. so pop the bonnet and fully close the flow valve by hand - don't rely on cable doing it via the rotary switch - make sure there's no heating effect and then see if you're getting a/c cooling.

hope that makes sense? Thumbs Up
Post #786795 14th Aug 2019 2:41pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 683

United Kingdom 
I'm no expert but from my experience with a car system with the same issue, theres a number of things it could be.

Why it went wrong originally:
1. Pressure low through natural leakage over time in O-rings in the pipe joints (what mine was)
2. Compressor clutch engaging but not fully (can be adjusted but i never worked out how)
3. Pressure far too high from one of those "AC gas top up bottles"

Why it could be wrong now:
1. Overcharged from them putting "a little bit more gas in than the book says as they have really long hoses on this machine"..... that's a good one. That ruined my AC compressor and failed the expansion valve which on my car was a dash out job......
2. A failed compressor that's not fully compressing with the lobes - they've suggested this one already.
3. Growth on the evapourator which means it barely works and keeps cycling the compressor due to the pressure in the system never being dropped due to the temperature staying low on the low pressure side. Trouble is they're hard to get to to check if they're clean....
4. The drain line used to work, but now doesn't, and is blocked up with growth, which means the evapourator sits in a massive puddle all the time, freezes the puddle, then is ineffective, and you return to no.3 again.

As above i'd be surprised if it's the condenser itself, but it could be the lines to and from it.

Honestly that's just the experience i've had myself, but you're best off talking to a very good AC specialist, rather than the local garage who are simply trained to use a machine, (often wrongly) <--- for instance, if the systems been open to the air, you need to leave it on vacuum mode for as long as possible, but a minimum of 8 hours according to the service guidelines for the car I had, to make sure the moisture is removed from the system. Can't imagine someone in KwikFit giving it more than a cup of tea!

Not sure, but hopefully gives some thought starters.


^^^ i like Caterhams answer. That one's easy to fix!!!!
Post #786800 14th Aug 2019 2:53pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
wrong answer... deleted Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License
Post #786845 14th Aug 2019 6:58pm
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Nicedayforit



Member Since: 07 May 2018
Location: Uk
Posts: 6

Do you know when the cabin air filter was last changed? You could always take the filter out for a short while and see if there is any improvement.
Post #786858 14th Aug 2019 8:01pm
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sweatysock



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 283

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Indus Silver
Hi not informed enough to comment on the source of prob but in terms of cost I can add the following.

I had my condenser (LR part) replaced and unit re-gased for £950 last week including labour and VAT....hope this helps if it is necessary Sweatysock
-------------
110 CSW TDCI (Puma) 2007
Post #786861 14th Aug 2019 8:07pm
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dgardel



Member Since: 30 Nov 2008
Location: Veneto (Heart & Head)
Posts: 3586

Italy 
Cabin filter ? Into a defender? Discovery 5 td6 HSE Stornoway Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition

IID Pro MV License


Last edited by dgardel on 14th Aug 2019 8:08pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #786860 14th Aug 2019 8:07pm
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Nicedayforit



Member Since: 07 May 2018
Location: Uk
Posts: 6

dgardel wrote:
Cabin filter ? Into a defender?


It is true I have no idea if there is a cabin filter in a defender but if there isn't that would worry me.
A cabin filter obviously cleans the incoming air as best it can before that air gets to the generally damp evaporator.
If there is no cabin filter the evaporator tends to act as a filter with any dirt collecting on the evaporator fins which in time become heavily contaminated to such an extent the flow of air through the evaporator is significantly reduced if not stopped all together.
Dirty cabin filters are renowned for causing problems with ac systems in vehicles.
Post #786865 14th Aug 2019 8:19pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 683

United Kingdom 
No cabin filter on a defender unless you've fitted one of those Devon 4x4 foam ones on the wing..... We fitted them then discovered they have such a delta pressure across the element (even though it's only open cell foam) that it ruined the cabin fan performance.

Anyway. The logic behind the point is right even if there's no filter. A clogged up evaporator will also cause the same problem the mould growth would. Stops it heating up on the incoming air and therefore the pump will tick on and off regularly as the pressures constantly high.
Post #786917 15th Aug 2019 8:29am
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geostrategist



Member Since: 25 Apr 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 60

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
Matt110

Thanks for that.

Where would I find the evaporator?
Post #786927 15th Aug 2019 9:25am
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geostrategist



Member Since: 25 Apr 2019
Location: UK
Posts: 60

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Tonga Green
And the winner is Matt110 with:

Quote:
Pressure far too high from one of those "AC gas top up bottles"


I took it to an air con specialist who serviced it, removed 1040g of gas, and topped it up with the correct amount of 600g (which is clearly marked in the engine bay).

I can now drive it and wear a jumper at the same time.

Moral: pay cheap: pay twice.
Post #786968 15th Aug 2019 12:28pm
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Matt110



Member Since: 29 Jun 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 683

United Kingdom 
Glad you got it sorted - nice easy fix! If a tad inconvenient... Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
Post #786970 15th Aug 2019 12:43pm
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Magoyo



Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 47

Argentina 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
588 / 5.000
Resultados de traducción
I recover this post because I found the answer to what was happening to me. after disassembling the entire board, a very complicated thing that my mechanic did; found the evaporator in a sorry state, full of mud. And that my truck is 2009 with only 60,000 km. And I pray that they can reinstall the board and no new noise appears. I haven't been able to test the AC yet but I guess that was the reason for the malfunction. what was happening was that cold air came out only from one side of the nozzles.
I am seriously thinking of installing some kind of cabin filter.


Nicedayforit wrote:
dgardel wrote:
Cabin filter ? Into a defender?


It is true I have no idea if there is a cabin filter in a defender but if there isn't that would worry me.
A cabin filter obviously cleans the incoming air as best it can before that air gets to the generally damp evaporator.
If there is no cabin filter the evaporator tends to act as a filter with any dirt collecting on the evaporator fins which in time become heavily contaminated to such an extent the flow of air through the evaporator is significantly reduced if not stopped all together.
Dirty cabin filters are renowned for causing problems with ac systems in vehicles.
Post #959192 22nd Jul 2022 2:55pm
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Magoyo



Member Since: 04 Feb 2022
Location: Buenos Aires
Posts: 47

Argentina 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

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Post #959193 22nd Jul 2022 2:55pm
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