Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Is my rear diff shot? |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3682 |
^^^ Brilliant LR90, very much appreciated.
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24th Apr 2019 6:05am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450 |
That amount of slop looks to me to be well within normal parameters.
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24th Apr 2019 9:25am |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3682 |
On that’s basis that this is normal, what are the options if I wanted to reduce it, where would I start? Ashcroft diffs? ATB centre diff?
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24th Apr 2019 9:48am |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20448 |
Have you checked the halfshafts and flanges or splines depending on what type you have? Especially the rear? No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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24th Apr 2019 10:15am |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3682 |
They are only a couple of thousand of miles old, but I am going to check them again at the weekend.
Cheers Col |
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24th Apr 2019 10:40am |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450 |
I think that you'd need to decide which end you wanted to focus on.
If you are worried about the amount that a diff flange rotates with the propshaft removed, then you'd need firstly to check for spline wear on the halfshafts (inboard and outboard ends) and drive flanges (the outboard end and flange usually wears faster since it isn't lubricated). Most likely you'd need to drop the diff out and adjust the pinion backlash, whcih is an easy job but not for the faint-hearted. (LR factory diffs are notorious for being sloppily built and not well adjusted at manufacture). If you're worried about the relative movement between the front and rear output flanges on the transfer box, you'd need to look for wear in the centre diff. This is harder to deal with since it requires an overhaul of the transfer box, which again is not difficult but requires more experience, more specialist measuring equipment, and more exotic tools. If you're worried about movement of the handbrake drum with the centre diff locked and the main box in gear, you're looking at wear in the transfer box, input shaft splines, or output adaptor shaft splines. A lot depends on the depth of your pockets and the extent of the OCD that wants to eliminate slop! You'll never get rid of drive-line backlash on a Defender, there are simply too many wear points. |
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24th Apr 2019 10:42am |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3682 |
Thanks black wolf. It does seem like chasing shadows! I think I’ll start at the back and move forwards!
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24th Apr 2019 10:45am |
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jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8053 |
the 'slop' is standard for what you have shown in the diffs.
a 1/4T between outputs on the LT230 is also a standard feature. the clunk you get i believe is bush related considering when your drive members where done/checked. Ref changing diffs etc You dont need to take it out, its a mechanical system just drive with it. Its a defender. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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24th Apr 2019 11:47am |
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jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8053 |
Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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24th Apr 2019 11:47am |
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2010Blackdefender90 Member Since: 07 Jan 2018 Location: London Posts: 562 |
Have you checked the A frame ball joint on the top of the axle?
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24th Apr 2019 3:18pm |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3682 |
Just checked a frame ball joint. It not easy to get a good swing on it laying under the back but I think I heard and saw a slight movement in the joint. Or it could have been my joints!
I’ve ordered the greaseable version from Gwyn Lewis on the basis that if this isn’t the problem it will be some day so at least I’ll avoid it! I’ll fit it at the weekend and feedback. |
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24th Apr 2019 5:57pm |
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MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2420 |
It happened to me once the bolt on the rear diff flange came loose. Cannot remember if I had an oil leak tough. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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24th Apr 2019 6:02pm |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3682 |
And the winner is... A Frame Ball joint! Replaced it today and the clunk has vanished on over run and acceleration. Took a leisurely 30 mins to do with the Greasable version from Gwyn Lewis. Thanks to all for the help and recommendations. 👍
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28th Apr 2019 2:23pm |
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2010Blackdefender90 Member Since: 07 Jan 2018 Location: London Posts: 562 |
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28th Apr 2019 2:31pm |
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