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Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3682

^^^ Brilliant LR90, very much appreciated.

24th Apr 2019 6:05am

lohr500

Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1317

2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black

I no longer have our Defender, so I can't measure the amount of play to compare with yours.

But from memory, ours was not dissimilar, with loads of slop and clunking in the transmission, even after giving the rear half shaft splines a good greasing.

They do seem to vary though, as the 2.4 we had previously had less clunking at twice the mileage (26k vs 13k), but a very low mileage demonstrator I had whilst ours was in for some warranty work was just as bad.

I think it's just the nature of the transmission set up and if you get a good one or a bad one!!

I got used to it and adjusted my driving style to minimise the amount of clunking. #It was more noticeable when my wife occasionally drove the Defender as she was not used to driving it.

24th Apr 2019 7:19am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

That amount of slop looks to me to be well within normal parameters.

24th Apr 2019 9:25am

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3682

On that’s basis that this is normal, what are the options if I wanted to reduce it, where would I start? Ashcroft diffs? ATB centre diff?

24th Apr 2019 9:48am

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20453

Have you checked the halfshafts and flanges or splines depending on what type you have? Especially the rear? No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

24th Apr 2019 10:15am

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3682

They are only a couple of thousand of miles old, but I am going to check them again at the weekend.

Cheers
Col

24th Apr 2019 10:40am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

I think that you'd need to decide which end you wanted to focus on.

If you are worried about the amount that a diff flange rotates with the propshaft removed, then you'd need firstly to check for spline wear on the halfshafts (inboard and outboard ends) and drive flanges (the outboard end and flange usually wears faster since it isn't lubricated). Most likely you'd need to drop the diff out and adjust the pinion backlash, whcih is an easy job but not for the faint-hearted. (LR factory diffs are notorious for being sloppily built and not well adjusted at manufacture).

If you're worried about the relative movement between the front and rear output flanges on the transfer box, you'd need to
look for wear in the centre diff. This is harder to deal with since it requires an overhaul of the transfer box, which again is not difficult but requires more experience, more specialist measuring equipment, and more exotic tools.

If you're worried about movement of the handbrake drum with the centre diff locked and the main box in gear, you're looking at wear in the transfer box, input shaft splines, or output adaptor shaft splines.

A lot depends on the depth of your pockets and the extent of the OCD that wants to eliminate slop! You'll never get rid of drive-line backlash on a Defender, there are simply too many wear points.

24th Apr 2019 10:42am

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3682

Thanks black wolf. It does seem like chasing shadows! I think I’ll start at the back and move forwards!

24th Apr 2019 10:45am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8059

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

the 'slop' is standard for what you have shown in the diffs.

a 1/4T between outputs on the LT230 is also a standard feature.

the clunk you get i believe is bush related considering when your drive members where done/checked.

Ref changing diffs etc You dont need to take it out, its a mechanical system just drive with it. Its a defender. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

24th Apr 2019 11:47am

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8059

jst wrote:
I reckon that's the same play as my 78k 90, 51k 90 and 72k 90.

Co1 wrote:
Or is there actually nothing wrong with how much okay I’m demonstrating?
.

Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

24th Apr 2019 11:47am

2010Blackdefender90

Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

Have you checked the A frame ball joint on the top of the axle?

24th Apr 2019 3:18pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3682

Just checked a frame ball joint. It not easy to get a good swing on it laying under the back but I think I heard and saw a slight movement in the joint. Or it could have been my joints!

I’ve ordered the greaseable version from Gwyn Lewis on the basis that if this isn’t the problem it will be some day so at least I’ll avoid it! I’ll fit it at the weekend and feedback.

24th Apr 2019 5:57pm

MK

Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2420

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White

It happened to me once the bolt on the rear diff flange came loose. Cannot remember if I had an oil leak tough. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later

24th Apr 2019 6:02pm

Co1

Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3682

And the winner is... A Frame Ball joint! Replaced it today and the clunk has vanished on over run and acceleration. Took a leisurely 30 mins to do with the Greasable version from Gwyn Lewis. Thanks to all for the help and recommendations. 👍

28th Apr 2019 2:23pm

2010Blackdefender90

Member Since: 07 Jan 2018
Location: London
Posts: 562

28th Apr 2019 2:31pm

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