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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17419

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Any fastener dealer should be able to supply M14 or 1/2" UNF nuts. JLR has clearly decided to use a non-standard nut for reasons known only to themselves!
Post #763652 15th Mar 2019 4:30pm
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MetalMatt



Member Since: 29 Jul 2016
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 180

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Baltic Blue
Quote:
Any fastener dealer should be able to supply M14 or 1/2" UNF nuts. JLR has clearly decided to use a non-standard nut for reasons known only to themselves!


JLR must have had an off day when making my 90 and someone thought sod it put this nut on it fits.
Tomorrows job is getting a smaller nut Smile



Quote:
Just checked the QR boss I fitted a couple of weeks ago. I used a standard 22mm AF socket, definitely not thin walled.

A standard M14 nut should have a cross flat dimension of 20.67 to 21.0mm. Can you not locate a M14 nut locally and try that?


Thats tomorrows job going to get a smaller nut and give it a shot 1995 Land Rover Discovery 300tdi - Sold
1989 Land Rover 90 - Rebuilding/built - its a project
2002 Land Rover Discovery TD5 - Sold
2017 Mini JCW F56 - Current Daily Driver
Post #763658 15th Mar 2019 4:57pm
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C90



Member Since: 19 Nov 2024
Location: Essex
Posts: 17

England 
I'm looking to fit the Optimill Quick release boss but only got as far as this bloody nut! Same nut, different problem. Hoping you fellas have some thoughts.

The nut is cross-threaded, looks like someone has tried to take it off before or badly put it back on because it's not tightened right down to the bottom (luckily steering wheel is very tight and not going anywhere).

What do I need to replace to resolve it? Feels expensive.
Post #1054557 13th Dec 2024 9:42am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2022

United Kingdom 
To avoid any more damage to the threads you could carefully drill both sides of the nut, gently prising the nut apart and removing the two halves. Note lots of small drill holes at first, expanding with larger bits to get them to join.

Before doing this I would rock the wheel side too side to break grip on taper, else while pulling with the nut removed you may smack the wheel into your face.

With nut and wheel removed you will need a die of the correct size to repair / recut the thread.

You will heed a new nut and might as well have a new washer .

So getting all you need ahead of the procedure will be key.
Post #1054587 13th Dec 2024 12:54pm
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C90



Member Since: 19 Nov 2024
Location: Essex
Posts: 17

England 
Fantastic advice Ian, thank you very much!

Particularly this bit... "Before doing this I would rock the wheel side too side to break grip on taper, else while pulling with the nut removed you may smack the wheel into your face." Rolling with laughter
Post #1054599 13th Dec 2024 2:38pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4216

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
In the event you need a puller to get the wheel off the splines, you can very easily make one from some scrap metal and a few bolts. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #1054601 13th Dec 2024 2:55pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2022

United Kingdom 
on the recutting thread front, inspect the thread , if it does not look too bad and you don’t have a tap and die set you could get an extra nut, make sure it’s fitted straight and not cross threaded, put some lube on the damaged thread section and wind the nut on and back as you would a die to repair the thread.
Then once repaired use another new nut to hold the wheel on, noting the previous damaged section is early on the thread so not used when torquing the nut to 43Nm ( for Puma) .
Post #1054602 13th Dec 2024 2:56pm
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