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Bushpig



Member Since: 07 Nov 2013
Location: Risca, Wales
Posts: 236

Wales 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Alpine White
De-rusting the Rear-end
Started with removing the rear step and wheel carrier.
Surprising how ‘good’ the paint was where it was covered from the elements.
Weirdly the right crossmember through mount was far more corroded than the left and the general condition of the step, after 7 years was a surprise.
Please ignore the flaky hinges and dented safari door Whistle They’re on the ’to do list’...


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Sent the step off for blasting, galvanising and re-powder coating.
Got on with prepping and painting the crossmember and seeing as though it was off, also attacked the spare carrier.
2 coats primer and 3 satin, decided against using gravel guard, preferring a smooth finish.
Brush painted the carrier with a rust converter and primer, sprayed with same satin black. The rust in the tubes for the wheel Big Cry , why are they left open Banging Head


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Step all nice and shiny, I had to clean the drips from the galvanising as it was not included in the price, but at ZAR720 for the stripping, galvanising and powder coating, still not a bad deal?
Sprayed the fixings for the step with gravel guard.


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The step returned from the powder coaters and not only had they coated the thread on the mounts, but so had the galvanisers Censored did not notice this earlier.
First tried pouring a galvanising stripper and cleaner into the threads, but after a full day it had only removed less than a mm, but did removed all the powder. Luckily could start a tap into the threads. 2 turns of the tap, remove, chisel out galvanising, tap 2 turns, repeat, repeat, repeat & 4 hours later, done!
I sprayed the inside of the step with Tectyl 506 and plugged all the holes with a mastic rubber.


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Eventually all back together. All fixing were coated with ACF50 and inside of crossmember with Tectyl.
Did not expect the powder coating on the step to be so shiny, the sample in the shop was more matt, sure it will fade in time.
The open end of the tubes on the carrier were plugged with 22mm table leg rubbers and sealed with silicone. Used the same rubbers, less silicone, to seal the inside of the step jacking points, still have the originals on the outside.
OCD kicked in and painted the washers and bolts with model paint enamel (have a tin for keeping the rivets on the chequered plate black).


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Would certainly recommend that anyone with a NAS step take a good look at their rear... Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so.
Douglas Adams

2012 2.2 Puma
Post #745105 11th Dec 2018 7:45am
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3670

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Nice job 👍
Post #745161 11th Dec 2018 1:39pm
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X4SKP



Member Since: 29 Nov 2013
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2295

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Thought I'd add to this thread rather than starting a new one...

When I first got my 90 I 'made good' and resprayed the rear end noticing at the time that the metal plate under the rubber tread on my OEM LR NAS Rear Step was shall we say a little on the mean side being 'waffer thin'... Shocked


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Anyway after 5 years the predicitable has happened... Shocked Shocked


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Questions...
Who has done what to correct this... Question
I seem to remember seeing a Aluminium Tread Plate alternative being applied to improve things... Question

I would like to retain the original appearance but would deviate from this for a good solution...



Thanks for any suggestions... SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html
Post #769689 23rd Apr 2019 9:15am
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