 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > RANT about Designers of Front Brakes for Defenders. |
 
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| JustFX Member Since: 10 Nov 2016 Location: Mendip Hills Posts: 190   
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<RANT>
If I ever find the Smeg head designer who came up with the brakes design of the front brakes on my Defender I will smash their coffee cup[1]. To change the disk I need to remove the hub as the bolts for the disk are on the rear of the hub, annoying but I can live with that. Removing the calliper, well the brake line fowls access to one of the bolts, on slightly earlier models meant you unbolted a bracket, I can't as the ABS sensor is in there. So I now have to undo the brake lines just to get the calliper off. Which means when I refit, I have the fun task of rebleeding the brakes. I spent some time trying to do this today but as various things were done up too *BEEPING* tight I gave up before I break anything. So I now miss the 10-day deadline set by my MOT chap. Though by the state of the pads and discs I can't see them as being warped. [1]I know its coffee as no Tea drinking designer would ever design that kind of BLEEEEEEEEP! </RANT>  |
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13th May 2018 8:29pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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pressure brake bleeders are worth the investment.
That's have the problem. It hasn't really been 'designed' by anyone. It's been added to and had patches put over patches over the years, where they were just fire fighting to keep the thing going at minimal cost. |
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13th May 2018 9:47pm |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888  
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Assuming yours uses the same setup as mine, with a bracket mounted on the top swivel pin to hold the pipe joint from flexi to rigid, I cut the bracket so it has a slot to the outer edge, that way you can just loosen the locking nut and slide the whole lot out of the way without breaking the circuit. You can do similar by removing the top swivel pin on a standard setup but you need to support the swivel housing while you're doing it.
I have Range Rover twin circuit callipers on the front of mine and this mod means I can fairly easily remove a CV joint, replace a wheel bearing etc... in the field, mid competition. Once the calliper is removed I tie wrap it to the top of the radius arm while I do the work, that way the rigid pipe doesn't get overly stressed. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/ |
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13th May 2018 10:23pm |
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| hank Member Since: 12 Sep 2016 Location: South Wales Posts: 2301  
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You can tweak/bend the brake pipe very slightly to get access to the bracket bolts. I would refit the bolts when the bracket is removed so that the king pin takes the weight and not the swivel seal.
The ABS sensors just pull/slide out, no problem |
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14th May 2018 8:52am |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2179 
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Just pull the ABS sensor out. Its only a push fit undo the two bolts, stick a pan underneather as the swivel will start leaking. Get the bracket out and do the bolts back up.
Remove caliper and rest on the radius arm, secure with cable ties. |
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14th May 2018 11:49am |
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