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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4662

Ireland 
Door hinge bolts
Just noticed one of the bolts from the top door hinge is missing. It is one from the hinge plate over the quarterlight window. The remaining one was loose so I tightened that. Are the retaining nuts inside fixed to the body or just tightened in place by the bolt pulling them? Anyway check yours. Have e-mailed the dealer. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #15410 13th Sep 2009 10:58am
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
Re: Door hinge bolts
spudfan wrote:
Just noticed one of the bolts from the top door hinge is missing. It is one from the hinge plate over the quarterlight window. The remaining one was loose so I tightened that. Are the retaining nuts inside fixed to the body or just tightened in place by the bolt pulling them? Anyway check yours. Have e-mailed the dealer.


Spud is it the bolt through the door or into the bulkhead? 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #15411 13th Sep 2009 11:03am
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dm_td5



Member Since: 20 Jul 2008
Location: Arnhem Land
Posts: 609

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Zermatt Silver
Door side ones are held in place by a flanged nut on the inner panel. If you take them off, loctite them back on. LR seem to have cut out a lot of nyloc nuts and the use of loctite on the Puma. I'd also check your mirror bolts aren't loose. 110 2.4TDCi
110 300Tdi

LROCV ::: AULRO.com
Post #15415 13th Sep 2009 12:43pm
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
dm_td5 wrote:
Door side ones are held in place by a flanged nut on the inner panel. If you take them off, loctite them back on. LR seem to have cut out a lot of nyloc nuts and the use of loctite on the Puma. I'd also check your mirror bolts aren't loose.


Your right about the nylocs Derek, but haven't noticed the use of Loctite though 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #15416 13th Sep 2009 12:48pm
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spudfan



Member Since: 10 Sep 2007
Location: Co Donegal
Posts: 4662

Ireland 
Re: Door hinge bolts
Grockle wrote:
spudfan wrote:
Just noticed one of the bolts from the top door hinge is missing. It is one from the hinge plate over the quarterlight window. The remaining one was loose so I tightened that. Are the retaining nuts inside fixed to the body or just tightened in place by the bolt pulling them? Anyway check yours. Have e-mailed the dealer.


Spud is it the bolt through the door or into the bulkhead?

Should have said that it is the rear door. It is the bolt closest to the door above the quarterlight window. As the vehicle is under warranty I will get the dealer to do it. I do not want to break any trim clips and have rattling trim in the back. If the nut that receives the bolt was fixed to the vehicle I could just screw in the replacement bolt and not have to remove trim to do it. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali
2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu
2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai
Post #15421 13th Sep 2009 2:29pm
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dm_td5



Member Since: 20 Jul 2008
Location: Arnhem Land
Posts: 609

Australia 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Zermatt Silver
Grockle wrote:
... haven't noticed the use of Loctite though

That's because I don't think they used any Wink

Which is probably why my bonnet nearly fell off Evil or Very Mad 110 2.4TDCi
110 300Tdi

LROCV ::: AULRO.com
Post #15432 14th Sep 2009 4:17am
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
dm_td5 wrote:
Grockle wrote:
... haven't noticed the use of Loctite though

That's because I don't think they used any Wink

Which is probably why my bonnet nearly fell off Evil or Very Mad


Or was it that the car nearly fell from under the bonnet Laughing that was quite early into your trip wasn't it. 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #15478 15th Sep 2009 7:27am
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Rear door hinge bolts and interior trim removal
I have a similar issue to this. I need to replace the bolts in my rear door hinges as they are all rusting quite nicely, but am unsure as to whether I will need to remove the interior trim panel around the o/s rear quaterlight? Does anyone know if the bolts that fix the rear door hinges to the body are captive? The bottom hinge bolts through into the inside of the wheelarch box, and I can't see how you would get at the back of it if they're not captive.

If I do have to remove the interior trim to either side of the back door, what are the trim clip fixings? They have a little grey cap on them, but are metal underneath and look a bit like small rivets. I have a trim removal tool, but don't know if they just 'pop' out?

Any help greatly appreciated! Cheers.
Post #65239 27th Mar 2011 2:11pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Re: Rear door hinge bolts and interior trim removal
Green Machine wrote:
I have a similar issue to this. I need to replace the bolts in my rear door hinges as they are all rusting quite nicely, but am unsure as to whether I will need to remove the interior trim panel around the o/s rear quaterlight? Does anyone know if the bolts that fix the rear door hinges to the body are captive? The bottom hinge bolts through into the inside of the wheelarch box, and I can't see how you would get at the back of it if they're not captive.

If I do have to remove the interior trim to either side of the back door, what are the trim clip fixings? They have a little grey cap on them, but are metal underneath and look a bit like small rivets. I have a trim removal tool, but don't know if they just 'pop' out?

Any help greatly appreciated! Cheers.


Go into the back of the car and one quick tug inwards and the trim will be off...its not too hard on those parts. Mike
Post #65253 27th Mar 2011 4:31pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
I've just replaced all my bolts and can confirm

front doors into mirror are captive
front doors lower into bulkhead are captive
front doors are loose but if you are carefull you don't have to remove the door panel

2nd row doors .. into car are accessable from inside car
2nd row doors into doors - again if you are carefull you don't have to remove the door panels

backdoor ... trim is easy to remoe

HTH
Post #65264 27th Mar 2011 6:08pm
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Green Machine



Member Since: 19 Nov 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1226

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Tonga Green
Thanks for the advice mse and bpman. bpman - presumably you had to remove the small trim panels around the rear quaterlights at the side of the rear door to get at the hinge bolts?
Post #65268 27th Mar 2011 6:21pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Green Machine wrote:
Thanks for the advice mse and bpman. bpman - presumably you had to remove the small trim panels around the rear quaterlights at the side of the rear door to get at the hinge bolts?


yes, these are pretty easy to remove, first pull off the window surrounds, lift the carpet (if you have some) and there are 3 plastic clips, carefully unscrew and you can then pull the plug out, if you break the plug/clip, you can get them at you dealer or halfords sell them too.

the lower hinge on the rear door ... you need to climb under the truck, remove the plastic cover panel and the rest is easy..
Post #65275 27th Mar 2011 6:54pm
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