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shaggydog

Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue

clutch won't disengage

Hi all

So driving home the other evening and clutch started feeling funny. Stopped at a traffic light dipped the clutch but engine laboured and we crept forward. Foot was hard on the floor but could feel the clutch engaging and then fully engaged even with foot on the floor. Dull.

Basically the clutch wasn't disengaging. Cue a very boring drive home with gear changes that make you go oooooff.

Got home looked and the flexible rubber hose which goes from the hard piping on the bulkhead to the hard pipework on the gearbox had rubbed through and all the fluid come out. Annoying but yay a smoking gun at least!

So this morning changed it and bled it so all good.

However clutch pedal goes 75% to the floor before it takes any "weight" and clutch is not disengaging.

It was fine before the leak so I see no reason why anything should have changed but am I missing something?

Could it just need another bleed?

Is it a symptom of a push rod pushing though the clutch fork?

Suggestions welcomed. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter

10th Mar 2024 12:13pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Quote:
Is it a symptom of a push rod pushing though the clutch fork?

No. When that happens, the clutch pedal is hard at the top.

I think you still have air in the system. Another method to bleed that I found to be effective is to remove the slave again (not the hydraulic connections), then hold the slave in such a way that the hard pipe is at to top most (so any air goes there), and push the slave plunger all the way in, so you push any air to the reservoir. Note that you might overflow the reservoir, so might need to syphon some oil out. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

10th Mar 2024 12:23pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

Probably needs re-bleeding, and as such you’ll need some Dot 4 fluid to do so.
The hydraulic pipework needs to be 100% leak proof too, the only issue may be if there was any damage to the internal slave or excess slipping when it was being driven.

If it’s had clutch drag that’s fluid leaking, or the slave is non concentric I had that when a clutch spring came out though but in turn messed up the slave.

Was there any noises? If not, then you may be okay but if there was any then you could have had a spring come out due to the leak.
Hopefully not!

As mentioned, you probably have a little bit of air still in there possibly.
It can get trapped just before the master cylinder and it only needs to be an air bubble to reduce the clutch throw, and that’s when you’ll get slip with will kill the clutch friction plate.

It might pay to unbolt the union attached to the MC, to let the air out then reconnect and re-bleed.

Gravity bleed does work well enough, just don’t let it run out of fluid in the MC. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

10th Mar 2024 4:24pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

P.S. wash off any spills with water asap as it’s corrosive to paint. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

10th Mar 2024 4:24pm

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